Italy Hiking: Camogli-San Fruttuoso-Portofino — July 2017
This hike starts out innocently enough next to a creek just a few minutes from the Camogli station (just go left at the bottom of the stairs coming down from the platform). Then the next 30 min are up, sometimes fairly steeply up, to the Chiesa di San Rocco. You pass the awesome looking BBQ Lodge just before , but it was 9:00 so I was not yet looking for some Q .There was a store open just after the BBQ and before the church with pizzas and other food and supplies. An just after the church a drinking water fountain if you follow the two-circle path.
I had read that at the church there was a decision between the seaside trail (the two dots) and a more inland route (the two triangles), and that the seaside trail had a couple sections had chains for support. This didn’t sound *too* bad so I went for the seaside option. Not sure I would do this again.
Again, innocent enough and really quite a nice hike for the first 20–30 min from the church.
Nice trail through the woods with a lot of crickets. Down below you can glimpse the Stella Maris hotel and Dö Spadin restaurant. Only accessible by hike or boat. Pretty cool ideas.
Then another warning sign. Seems reasonable to let people know what they are getting in to. It was only 9:30 but was getting a little warm. Note the upcoming progression from 245m down to 72m, back up to 275m, then down to the sea.
There are four or five sections with chains. The first one is really short without much danger. The second is over maybe a 10 meter rock face which was a little dicey but no problem to keep my feet moving and quickly make it over. If you have a real fear of heights the first face might trigger it.
The third set was much more exposed over the sea. If you have a fear of heights, this will definitely trigger it. Took this shot after as no desire to pull my phone out while on the rock face. Somewhat slick where everyone has hiked but with decent hiking shoe tread no issues. Helped that there were only a couple people around and a local trail runner basically sprinted out across this right in front of me inspiring some confidence. The trick is to remember that you are hiking, so move your feet steadily and don’t pull yourself by the chain. If there was an option to not do another one of these I would have taken it but I definitely was not interested in going back.
The poker term for the fourth, and final, set is “pot committed”. Even more exposed, say an 80–100m cliff to the sea, but really only tight in one 10–20 meter spot where the chain does not let you put your feet in an obviously good spot. This photo does not quite do it justice. I just kept my feet moving and definitely did not look down. No slippage and really only 20 seconds of actual concern.
About 20 min down from here to Cala dell’Oro then the painful part going 200m up to the top of the ridge at Valico di Costa. All switchbacks for 25 min straight up.
Decent hike down with a couple people going the other way asking how bad the chains and heights ahead really were. Liked the beach and getting in the water at San Fruttuoso. Really should have packed a towel.
Somehow I neglected to take a picture of the beach itself but the internet can fill in this bit. There is a ferry back to Camogli or to Portofino but I elected to tack an extra 2 hours on and hike my way out.
Great views for sections of this hike. A little bit of an uphill hike to start then much more gradual and across.
And a picturesque, rustic finish for about 30 min down to Portofino on roads as I followed the Via Cappella route. And yes, this is the same couple who were in an earlier photo. We did the same route over 6+ hours and passed each other like 10 times.
Cappella di San Sebastiano up the hill from Portofino
Ferry to Santa Margherita Ligure from Portofino
Final Timeline
8:30 Leave train station
8:53 BBQ lodge
9:00 San Rocco
9:45 Batteire
11:26 Valico di costa
12:08 San Fruttuoso — quick swim and water refill :)
12:35 Left San Fruttuoso
2:45 Portofino
