Part 2: How I Design & Make Leather Bags — Advice & What I’ve Learnt.
Answering your FAQ’s
Last year I posted an insight into How I Design & Make Leather Bags. Since then, I’ve received overwhelming support and questions from many kind and curious people. So I’ve decided to do a follow up. With more tips and advice shaped around the some of the most frequent, yet difficult questions I’m asked. For example:
“I have a vision, but no idea where to start, can you give me some advice?”
I’ll elaborate more on this in the FAQ section at the end of this article, but in the meantime, here we go. This is part 2 of leather bag making.
Before you get started
The whole process involves a lot of time, work & commitment.
But its worth it.
Don’t source out the ideation design phase for someone else to do.
Unless you’re famous, or willing to spend thousands. These are your creations, not the person’s whom you hired.
Don’t jump straight into the manufacturing stage without a pre developed design.
If not, it would be comparable to asking a builder “I have an idea for this house in my head, can you just make it for me?”. You’ll be wasting time and money, and might not get what you we’re imagining.
Get the ideas in your head down on paper.
Get them out on paper when the idea comes to you or when you’ve discovered a better way of doing something. They don’t have to be perfect, but its a tool of quick communication. Show, don’t tell.
Gain a basic understanding of construction techniques & patterns.
When you understand these foundations you’ll be able to take full advantage of whats possible to design and make. Plus, if this is for a business, you’ll need to know this so you can quality control your products. So learn about pattern making, stitching, attachments, processes etc.
Start off simple, then go more complex once you’ve gained a better understanding.
Not sure how the edges would join together? Try inspecting your favourite bag to see how it’s put together. Look to other examples of stitching & joinery.
Think big, but also know what your constrains and resources are.
Time constrains, money, solving a function, resources, designing within your limits. Design, as a profession is often shaped by many factors.
Prototyping & Development
Make Paper Prototypes, and let it be a volatile process.
Chop them up. Slash them. Drawn on them, and expect to make many versions of it to get it perfect.
Test it, hold it and remember to make it functional for popular use cases.
A few weeks ago I saw a leather backpack that would have been perfect for my commute to work. So, I pulled out my 15' MacBook pro to see if it would fit inside and it didn’t. So, immediately, it was a no sale.
Don’t skip this stage of the process.
Software & Details
Its worth using Computer-aided design software, also know as CAD.
Especially if your considering going into this business. CAD software makes the process of drawing patterns much quicker and easier. You can get exact shapes to fit together. If the paper pattern doesn’t work, its as simple as tweaking the drawing and re-printing it.
Theres a range of products out there. At the most basic level, anything that helps you draw a straight line, to scale, will work. I personally use AutoCAD. Other tools include SketchApp, the Adobe Suite, Rhino, Sketch Up or Solidworks.
Construction Phase
Keep a notebook to track learnings & processes as you build.
This is great to keep and refer back to in the future or for the next iteration.
It’s ok to make mistakes… but don’t make stupid mistakes
Measure 10 times, cut once.
You might need to pivot the first few times you build it.
Even if you prototype beforehand, better opportunities or mistakes (hopefully not stupid ones) might appear. But thats ok, problem solve & iterate. Thats what design is all about!
Having the right tools will make a huge difference.
For example, you can’t use the same needle and tread you use for sewing clothes if your using leather.
I’m also limited to the basics, but a few of my essentials are:
- Stanley knife with a very good quality sharp blade.
- Cutting mat or surface
- Marble or steel block weights
- Various sized hole punches
- Stitching punches to create holes if hand sewing
- Steel hammer
- Steel Ruler (use when cutting)
- White Pencil for marking
- Zips / buckles / rings / any hardware you need
- Skiving machine
- Contact glue
Don’t have these tools or a workshop? Try using a public maker’s space.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. I have a vision, but I have no idea where to start, can you give me some advice?
I noted this at the start, but I wanted to elaborate further because this is one of the most common question I’m asked. Yet the hardest question to answer. My advice? How long is a piece of string? — Don’t ask such a broad question!
With anyone you reach out to, always come with prior effort in learning and researching the topic. Thus, giving you more specific questions to ask. Which leads to a higher chance of gaining valuable help. If not, it insinuates that your looking to be spoon fed. You haven’t even bothered trying. Which is particularly a concern when the person has said that they want to get into it as a business. If you’re serious about it, then get learning! Read a book. Enrol in a class. Watch video tutorials. Read articles (like this one).
2. I have this idea in my head for a design I want, can you just make it for me?
Sure, but this would cost me an exuberant amount of time. Which I don’t have much of. Time = money. Thus, it will cost you an exuberant amount of money. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
3. Can you recommend any manufacturers or suppliers?
I don’t know of any sorry! I don’t use them and haven’t needed to look that far into it. You could connect with people who have created clothing lines by outsourcing overseas. They might be able to point you in the right direction.
4. Are you selling these?
No, I just create them as a side hobby. But who knows, maybe I will in the future! Right now I’m very happy working in digital product design.
5. If your not selling or wanting to do jobs for others, then why are you bothering with all this?
Constructing products in the physical world helps me exercise my methodical thought processes. It’s highlighted to me that design is all the same. You’re faced with constraints and restrictions. Along with the need to solve a core problem. Physical or digital, it’s just a different way of expressing the final product which I really enjoy!
