Prešov — The Humdrum Brother City of Košice
Let me get this straight: in essence, Prešov is a beautiful Slovak city, and no one can deny it. But being situated only 34 km away from Košice is simply bad luck. Even though Prešov has experienced some favorable circumstances over the centuries, Košice has always managed to stay one step ahead. History can prove the advantage.
First of all, both Prešov’s and Košice’s histories date back as far as the Paleolithic period, yet the first written records occurred in 1230 for Košice and 1247 for Prešov, respectively.
Second, due to its strategic location on an international trade route, Košice grew quickly — so quickly that in 1347 it became the second most important city in the hierarchy of the Hungarian free royal towns, having the same rights as the capital city of Buda. On the other hand, relevant information about Prešov did not come to light until almost 100 years later, with the first recorded school in Prešov in 1429 AD.
Third (ok, I’ll stop counting now, it feels tedious), the 15th century was an important period for both cities, especially for Košice. It was then that Pentapolitana (or Pentapolis), a commercial and economic interests union composed of the five most important cities in Upper Hungary, was founded. In its final form, the alliance included Košice, Bardejov, Levoča, Prešov, and Sabinov. Yes, you’re right: Košice played the leading role in Pentapolitana.
But Prešov struck back at the end of the 16th century when salt mining began in Solivar (at the time a nearby town, now part of the city). That resource increased the importance of the city, as Prešov soon became the political seat of Šariš county. Skipping the major events between the 17th and 19th century, which were pretty much the same for both Prešov and Košice (such as the dark times of bubonic plague, which decimated the population, and the following period of recovery, when the cities flourished and lots of manufacturers, workshops, and factories were built there), I’d rather tell you about the 20th century.
Following the end of WWI, the gradual breakup of the Austro-Hungarian Empire left both Prešov and Košice in a weak position, ripe for exploitation by the powerful countries nearby. Between 1918 and 1919, starting with Prešov, the two Slovak cities respectively became part of the Eastern Slovak Republic (a transient state under the protection of Hungary) and the Slovak Soviet Republic (a proletarian puppet state set up by Hungary and Ukraine). Eventually, after the Treaty of Trianon in 1920, Prešov and Košice became part of the newly created Czechoslovakia.
During WWII, Košice became part of Hungary again, and, as a result, most of the important Slovak institutions were forced to move to Prešov, increasing the city’s importance once more. After 1948, during the Communist era in Czechoslovakia, both cities became industrial centers and rapidly increased their populations. Following the bloodless Velvet Divorce in 1989 and the creation of the democratic Slovak Republic, Košice became the second largest city in the country and the second most important university town (after Bratislava).
I must say that the Communist industrial character has never disappeared from either city. Actually, this was also the feeling I had when I first visited Košice (in 2013) and Prešov (in 2015): while approaching them, the same image of tremendous Communist tenement blocks was quite intimidating (in spite of my origins in Romania, where I see the same image every day). Fortunately, the feeling vanished whenever I got into the Old Town districts.
Finally, I think this is the best moment to mention that Košice and Prešov were both contenders for the European Capital of Culture in 2013. Yes, you’re right again: Košice won the title. Once more, Košice was one step ahead of Prešov. And one thing is for sure: the bid for the ECC title had a major and visible impact on Košice, turning it from a centre of heavy industry to a vibrant postindustrial city with creative potential and modern cultural infrastructure.
Meanwhile, Prešov — the third largest city in Slovakia — seemed to relax in sleepy contentedness. Still, the city is certainly pretty, full of beautiful old buildings and various architectural styles, such as Baroque, Rococo, and Gothic. But that’s all! I suppose I may be biased by my bizarre experience in Prešov during our latest Eastern Chronicles road trip. Maybe I shouldn’t even compare these two cities. Maybe it was unfortunate to visit both in the same day.
Nonetheless, my conclusion is steady: in comparison to the vibrant Košice, Prešov felt to me like its humdrum brother city.
Photo credit: Flavius Neamciuc
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