JAPAN, DAY TEN

If entire days had Michelin stars, this would have three.

It’s our final day and it’s a special one. We catch a train to Nara, one of the oldest cities in Japan.

Some friends of my step mums from NYC gave a restaurant recommendation to go to Tsukume. Chef Masato Nishihara was previously at Kajitsu in New York and Umu in London and has come come back to Japan with his wife to open Tsukumo.

We arrived through a discreet front door into an elegant contemporary Japanese room. Everything was perfect, including the climate. We’re seated so that we can watch Masato prepare a special lunch menu for us. He had already prepared a huge white sea bream with rice died a pinky red colour using azuki bean — the red and white is a symbol of celebration and the meal is to mark the 30th wedding anniversary of my Aunt and Uncle and the end of our trip. The tastes are spectacular, baby pumpkin, kingfish sashimi, the most delicately prepared tempura I have ever seen, served with Masatos special Soba noodles and the special white fish and sweet rice its all incredible. To finish we have delicately sliced fruits and ice cream served with Cointreau.

After this perfect lunch and a glass of Sake we walked to the Kofukuji temple where we had an appointment with a Zen Buddhist Priest, we’re lucky to be offered his time, it’s an arrangement through the same friends from NYC — they clearly know how to do life. He welcomes us into the private residence for some tea and an introduction and then shows us around the Museum of National Treasures. I’ve seen a lot of Japanese Buddhist temples but it’s fascinating get some insight to his life as a monk, learning more about the history of Buddhism and the unique details of the Kofukuji temple.

It has turned from summer to Autumn in the last few days, now at 5pm it’s coolish and the sun is low gleaming through tree branches more like winter sun. We end the trip with a walk through Nara Park, famous for is tame deer who bounce along between tourists, posing for photos and eating biscuits.

The moon rises behind the temple gates as we walk back towards the train station to get the train back to Kyoto. It’s been a lovely tenth day in a special trip that was about remembering my dad and celebrating the country that he decided to call home.

It’s very clear to me why he did.