Inside the shockingly open underworld of South Korean plastic surgery.
In a country that places emphasis on conformity and Confucianism, the trend in plastic surgery and all things beautiful are seemingly more fitting for their unsettling, dogmatic neighbour up north. South Korea is a country of tradition that has clashed with modernity- evident in all aspects of society. South Korea has a shockingly deep and dark obsession with plastic surgery, and it is on the rise.
South Korea is many things- rich in history, a food capital and a remarkable blend of old and new. Its progression after the war has been astounding to observe The Korean economy has been likened to the fiscal state of Germany for its similar retaliation after defeat by a devastating war. Its advancement is that much more extraordinary, when comparing South Korea with the scarce images that creep through of its northern counterpart. According to The Economist, in 1960 South Korea was one of the poorest countries in the world. By the end of 2011, it was richer that the European Union average. However despite this progression, or maybe because of it, South Korea has earned itself the ranking of having the highest number of cosmetic surgeries in the world.
Appearance is an integral part of Korean society- with the focus less on exercise and fitness, and more on beauty regimes and fashion. The vast array of cosmetic shops is evidence of this- the popular franchises can even be found in the subway stations. Department stores are widespread, with salespeople waiting eagerly for their next customer to be lured in by the bright lights and shiny clothes. South Korea even boasts the honour of having the largest department store in the world- a fourteen-storey giant- adorned in the latest fashion and top brands. One of the floors of this establishment even has an ice rink, in case shopping gets to be too much. Controversially, Korean moisturisers have been reported to contain a whitening agent, in the pursuit of whiteness personified. During the summer months, one discovers a widespread fear of the sun amongst many Koreans. Trips to the beach involve elaborate pieces to keep covered; while bikinis are usually reserved for the younger, more careless foreigners or Korean youth. Around the city, the older men and women wear long sleeves, specially-designed peak caps and pants in the dead of summer, all to avoid the sun. Hairdressers are also rife, and far outnumber gyms or health clubs. The salons often advertise pretty Caucasian women, attracting customers looking for a (usually unobtainable) transformation. The regularity of hairdressers is indicative of the necessity for them- having sleek, straight hair is the uniform of Korea and therefore money is spent to ensure one meets this code.
This obsession with looking perfect is something that many foreigners comment on when visiting Korea. This blatant self-absorption is highlighted in all settings- the bus, a restaurant, walking on the street- as one witnesses Koreans using mirrors to scrutinise every aspect of their hair and face, in a shameless act of egotism. As a foreigner, this barefaced act of vanity is surprising- one is taught to be modest, to sneak looks in mirrors or reflections in passing, but never to outright acknowledge one’s appearance in public with such brazen narcissism. This has been further fuelled by cellphones. With the rise of the selfie, dissecting one’s appearance has never been easier, and it allows for more and more opportunities to take selfies, which are then immediately analysed. Selfie sticks have all but heightened this phenomenon.
This obsession with looking perfect is stimulated by the media- something that is common worldwide- yet Koreans are further pressured by western culture and the measuring up of themselves against their western counterparts. South Korea is widely influenced by America as a whole- the entire country is teeming with franchises and American chain stores- a loyalty that has lasted since the superpower’s backing of South Korea during the war. On top of these influences is the significant role that Korean actors and musicians have in the ordinary Korean’s life. K-POP- the Korean pop genre of music- is a hugely influential aspect on Korean life. And the fandom is not just reserved for teenage girls- their fans transcend all demographics. These singers are recognisable in their uniformity- be it a boy or a girl band- each member dresses similarly when performing, their moves are choreographed to move in sync, as they sing of love, fun and youthful folly. Korean singers and musicians are widely loved, and frequently feature in TV commercials- enforcing their positions as household names. Therefore the pressure to stay relevant in the demanding world of K-POP and acting is further increased by the thousands of other younger Koreans itching to fill their shoes and claim their spot. Thus the demand to look young and relevant while singing about youthful drivel has found its answer- plastic surgery.
According to the New Yorker, it has been estimated that between one-third and one-fifth of women in Seoul (which has a population of approximately 10 million) have undergone plastic surgery, and one poll reported by the BBC puts the figure at fifty per cent or higher for women in their twenties. In order to understand this phenomenon, one needs to trace the origins behind why people get cosmetic surgery- focusing on this in a purely aesthetic intention (rather than in the case where it is necessary). Plastic surgery is all about correcting what is seemingly ‘wrong’ with one’s appearance, or what a person deems to be a flaw. This notion of what is seen as a flaw or an ideal is what sociologists, therapists and scientists have always tried to answer, yet in a nutshell, the influence of society is mostly to blame for the labeling of what is attractive and what is not. A person will think their nose is the wrong size, only if compared to another person. This unhealthy comparison has spanned into a fully-fledged organism in the shape of tabloid magazines, reality shows and an obsession with all things celebrity.
The desire to imitate the western world and its heavy-handed influence in all spheres boils down to the physical attributes of how a Korean differs from a Caucasian. Genetically, Koreans are born with an extra piece of skin above the eye called an epicanthic fold which makes the eye seem smaller- a hereditary trait that is believed to have evolved because of climatic conditions. With a lower-rooted nose bridge, an epicanthic fold is more likely to occur, and therefore is less common with a higher-rooted nose bridge- a common trait amongst most people of the western world. Science aside, it boils down to the fact that a Korean looks different to a Caucasian, and how because of our genetic differences, everyone should embrace their individuality and uniqueness; yet Koreans still strive to imitate what they see as much as possible. The most popular surgeries amongst Koreans are rhinoplasty and blepharoplasty- in laymen’s terms: double-eyelid surgery.
Evidence of plastic surgery is everywhere- especially in the municipal buses, where one finds advertisements on the back of the seats of people who have rid themselves of acne, excess weight, and their ‘wrongly-shaped’ chin, amongst other procedures. These images are even more prominent in the bigger cities like Seoul. When visiting the popular, high-end shopping district of Garosugil via the subway, one is greeted by before and after images of plastic surgery patients, overtly conspicuous as you ride the escalator up or down. The pictures depict sets of two women who are unrecognisable in their likeness, which seemingly attracts customers as upon leaving the subway; one is overwhelmed with plastic surgery clinics. The images portray a sad wallflower who has become a beautiful princess after the surgery- buying into the fairytale fantasies many Korean women dream of. The messages on the advertisements include captions like “everyone has done it but you” and “this is the reason celebrities are confident even without their makeup” playing into two vital aspects of Korean life- conformity and celebrity influence. What sets Korea apart from the western world is the lack of taboo about flaunting the fact that you have been under the knife. Seen all over, but mostly in Seoul, the women are almost proud to show off their battle scars, and make it acceptable for everyone else to do the same. The women walk around flaunting their plasters and patches with an intrepidness that would be admirable if it was not for the reasoning behind it.
The popular double-eyelid surgery is perhaps the most unsettling of surgeries. The procedure widens the eye, and is often reminiscent of an Anime character, an eerie sight to encounter in reality. The surgery often induces the eyes to look unnaturally glossy and dark, moving even further away from emulating the Caucasian persona. Whether or not a person goes under the knife, the question of why it has become the norm is more important. Author David Mura, an advocate against the double-eyelid surgery, describes it as indoctrination by white standards of beauty. What is frightening is how cosmetic surgeries have become so commonplace; it is now a popular graduation gift in South Korea from students’ parents. The message that this instills is undeniably skewed. Vice magazine did an exposé on the rise of surgery in Korea, while focusing on Seoul Fashion Week. A member of the K-pop band D-Unit was interviewed and she explained that the obsession with surgery- especially the double-eyelid procedure- is all because of the influence of western celebrity culture, and the desire to imitate what they see.
The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde serves as a vivid and frightening depiction of what happens when someone becomes too obsessed with one’s appearance. While the novel may be fictitious, Dorian’s self-obsession is all too familiar with the current trends of surgery, and what it truly boils down to- the intention of perfection, of having the ‘best’ features and possessing the right attributes to fit in, and be seen as ‘attractive’ by society. The blurred reality of plastic surgery is therefore the catalyst to this movement, the convenient way of becoming someone else by conforming to a supposed standard of beauty. Besides the obvious dangers that are always lurking in the background when undertaking a major surgical procedure, is the breeding ground that has been created because of the popularity of surgery, a lucrative opportunity for unqualified and/or scam surgeons to cash in on the trend. Because of this, there are many reports by victims of surgery mishaps, and photography exposés into the not so seedy world of plastic surgery. However, what is equally as important is the question of how a country that has achieved so much in such a short time can promote such a horrifying message: you do not conform to our perceived notions of beauty.
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