Lion Cafe, Shibuya
The Lion Cafe in Tokyo has been on my list of places to visit for some time. Several close friends that know my deep obsession with classical music strongly recommended this place as a must-visit. So, in December, I finally dedicated the time to drop in and unravel the suspense.
The cafe, with its exteriors resembling that of an old European building located in the dark alleyways of Shibuya district, amidst the bustling alleyways of restaurants, shops, and love hotels, Lion Cafe almost blends into its surroundings, going unnoticed by passersby who may not realize the secrets it holds.
First established in 1923 by Yamadera Yanosuke, this cafe has a profound history of dedication to classical music. Yamadera, with an architectural background, poured his imagination into creating this music haven, personally overseeing the design and construction of much of the original structure.
I can’t help but feel a sense of relief and happiness knowing that despite the wartime damage and the need for restoration in 1950, it stands proudly to this day.
It was around 6:00 PM on a chilly December evening when I arrived at the entrance of the café. There, I was greeted by the attendant, who promptly informed me that talking and photography were not permitted.
We were allowed to stay for 90 minutes, a duration typical in Tokyo, designed to facilitate business rotation rather than accommodating those who linger for hours at a single spot.
“Take any seat you like,” the host whispered. The café, spread across two floors, offered a variety of seating options. We chose the front row near where the records were stacked. Every seat in the establishment faced the front, where amplifiers, CD players, turntables, and records were situated, all set against a substantial wooden structure with embedded speakers.
Upon listening, I immediately recognized Brandenburg Concerto №5 by Bach. The crackling sound, characteristic of an older recording, was unmistakable. The host displayed the cover of the currently playing CD or record, and this one was by Masaaki Suzuki and the Bach Collegium Japan.
Few years ago, I had the opportunity to meet Masaaki Suzuki following one of his Bach performances. Renowned as a Japanese organist, harpsichordist, and conductor, he is especially revered for his extensive knowledge and interpretations of Bach and Baroque music. Suzuki is widely acknowledged for his significant contributions to classical music, particularly his work with Johann Sebastian Bach’s compositions.
We ordered coffee and watched as the host ascended the podium to prepare the next record. This time it was Chopin’s Piano Étude №12, a piece seemingly omnipresent in Japan, where it’s a staple in the playlists of many cafés.
The coffee itself was unremarkable, or rather, on par with the boiled-water-tasting coffee typical of Viennese cafés, characterized by an over-roasted flavor. This might have been an intentional choice to align with the European theme of the café.
Once again, the host announced the upcoming track and mentioned that they accepted requests from audience. Seizing the opportunity, I initially considered requesting the obscure “Hidden Waltzes №2” by Alexander Griboyedov. However, I opted for something more familiar, honoring Beethoven’s recent birthday. I requested Karajan’s rendition of Beethoven’s Symphony №6, specifically the fourth movement. This movement, known for its powerful representation of thunderous weather, seemed ideal for testing the speaker system at Lion Café.
Suffice it to say, the sound system at Lion Café, while not particularly impressive and somewhat antiquated, isn’t the focal point. The true charm of visiting this venue is absorbing its history with a Japanese twist, reflecting the classic essence it represents.
I hope you can make time to visit this unique café during your next trip to Tokyo. It’s not just for classical music aficionados; the experience it offers is memorable and unparalleled anywhere in the world, making it a must-visit destination for its distinctive ambiance and cultural strangeness that only Japan can offer.
