Unseen and unheard:
The power of anti-surveillance clothing

Alina Birjuk
11 min readSep 25, 2023

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In today’s world, with constant surveillance and concerns about privacy violations, anti-surveillance clothing has become an essential need rather than just a fashionable choice. As designers, we can create clothing that not only reflects our style but also protects our identities from intrusive surveillance technologies. Anti-surveillance clothing offers unique solutions, such as obscuring physical features and interfering with tracking devices and communication signals. In this essay, I will discuss the significance of anti-surveillance clothing, its historical background, current status, developmental challenges, political implications, and future potential.

CURRENT STATE OF ANTI-SURVEILLANCE PISCES

It was not until recently that these garments gained popularity due to the increasing concerns about government surveillance and intrusion into our private lives. Today, there are multiple companies that offer anti-surveillance clothing, ranging from simple hoodies and t-shirts to more complex designs that are intended to obscure an individual’s identity.

One of the most popular forms of anti-surveillance clothing is the hoodie. This is because the hood can be used to conceal a person’s face, making it difficult for facial recognition technology to detect their identity. These hoodies often feature patterns or designs that are intended to disrupt the algorithms used by these systems. They may also include materials such as metallic fibers that can reflect or distort light, making it difficult for cameras to capture clear images of the wearer. The hoodie example on the right has high-power IR LEDs with the same wavelength as security camera flood lights for night vision. By pointing them back at the camera and strobing them, the camera loses definition. The strobe interferes with auto-exposure, causing loss of definition in the strongest light. The LEDs around the upper body obfuscate the wearer’s head.

Another popular form of anti-surveillance clothing is the scarf. Scarves designed for this pur- pose often feature patterns or designs that can con- fuse surveillance cameras. Some may even include reflective materials that can interfere with the cameras’ ability to capture clear images. Scarves can also be used to conceal an individual’s identity, and they are often worn in combination with other anti-surveillance garments.

In addition to hoodies and scarves, there are also anti-surveillance shirts and jackets on the market. These garments may include materials such as mesh, which can interrupt thermal imaging technology, or they may have built-in pockets for storing electronic devices, such as phones or keys, that emit signals that can be used to track an individual’s movements.

Despite the availability of these products, the effectiveness of anti-surveillance clothing is still up for debate. While some may argue that these garments can protect people from being detected by surveillance systems, others believe that they are ineffective and may even be counterproductive. For example, some may argue that wearing anti-surveillance clothing could actually draw attention to an individual and make them more likely to be targeted by law enforcement or security personnel.

HISTORY OF UNSEEN CLOTHING

The history of anti-surveillance clothing can be traced back to the early twentieth century when the first attempts were made to develop clothing that could protect individuals from widespread surveillance. In the US during the 1920s and 1930s, there was a growing concern about the use of wiretapping and other electronic surveillance techniques by law enforcement agencies. To counter this, inventors began to develop anti-wiretapping devices that could be worn by individuals. These included devices such as earphones that could be worn under a hat or coat, allowing individuals to listen to conversations without being detected.

The 1980s saw the emergence of a new movement known as “cyberpunk,” which was heavily influenced by science fiction and dystopian visions of the future. The cyberpunk movement was characterized by a fascination with technology and an insistence on the right to privacy. In the world of cyberpunk fiction, characters often wore clothing and accessories that protected them from surveillance and hacking. This led to the development of real-world anti-surveillance clothing and accessories such as the “privacy visor,” which was first developed by Isao Echizen in 2012. The privacy visor is a pair of glasses that uses reflective material to obscure the wearer’s face from cameras.

Prof Isao Echizen said: “As a result of developments in facial recognition technology in Google images, Facebook et cetera and the popularization of portable terminals that append photos with photographic information [geotags]… essential measures for preventing the invasion of privacy caused by photographs taken in secret and unintentional capture in camera images is now required.”

In recent years, the issue of surveillance has become even more pressing as governments and corporations use increasingly sophisticated technologies to monitor individuals. This has led to the development of a range of new anti-surveillance clothing and accessories. For example, the “HyperFace” scarf, developed by Adam Harvey in 2017, features a pattern of digital “noise” that is designed to confuse facial recognition software.

TYPES OF ANTI-SURVEILLANCE CLOTHING

First, camouflage clothing is used to conceal an individual from surveillance cameras. This type of clothing is designed to blend in with the surrounding environment, making it difficult for passing cameras to detect a person’s presence. The technology used on these clothes includes infrared light to change the color and hue of the fabric based on ambient surroundings, rendering the individual practically invisible. Camouflage clothing is not only used by soldiers in military combat but also by citizens who wish to opt-out of being tracked. For example, Dovetail Work- wear’s camouflage clothing line provides functional and fashionable clothing for women with hidden pockets to hide phones or other trackable devices.

The second type of anti-surveillance clothing is counter-surveillance or ‘anti-drone’ clothing made of metallic fibers that block radio signals emitted from drones. These clothes act as a Faraday cage, blocking radio frequencies emitted by drones in the vicinity. The electromagnetic signals from mobile devices, such as smartphones and tablets, can be distorted, making it difficult for drones to pinpoint an individual’s exact location. These types of clothes also protect an individual’s privacy from radio frequency identification (RFID) tags found on credit cards and passports, which are vulnerable to identity theft. The Stealth Wear Collection by Adam Harvey made up of a counter-surveillance hoodie, scarf, and full dress are some examples of clothes that protect against drones and other invasive technologies.

“I see a future where individuals are more in control of their privacy. And I see fashion as a vehicle for getting there. Conformity is what surveillance wants and fashion is anti-conformist. And I think the decision to conform or not happens on a personal level. The projects I’ve been working on act upon surveillance in a way that exploits a vulnerability and makes this vulnerability accessible through using something ordinary (hair, makeup, or fashion) in a non-conformist and legal way. So far, I haven’t had any problems with legal issues. In fact, I’ve been invited to a biometrics conference to discuss my work and really enjoy meeting people in this field. Even someone from DARPA recognized my work and seemed to enjoy it. Ideally, these projects, which take place at a personal level,

The third type of anti-surveillance clothing is clothing designed to counter facial recognition technology. Facial recognition is one of the most invasive surveillance measures used in public spaces. It is used to identify individuals walking around public spaces such as airports, shopping centers, and sporting events. In response, clothing manufacturers have developed garments that deceive facial recognition software, making individuals unrecognizable. These clothes incorporate intricate designs and patterns that engulf the wearer’s face, thus breaking the algorithm used to detect and track facial features. Examples of such products include reflective sunglasses, reflective face masks, and anti-facial recognition T-shirts.

Next, waterproof and weatherproof anti-surveillance clothing is tailored to protect individuals from aerial surveillance. This clothing is made from materials that reflect infrared and blend into its surroundings to prevent detection. These clothes also make use of waterproof technology that is built into the fabric to make the wearer invisible to thermal cameras. The visual distortions generated by thermal cameras from these clothes also obstruct the drone’s camera from recognizing the individual’s face or body. Furthermore, this clothing protects an individual from weather conditions, including heat, cold, and rain. One example of this type of clothing is the 3-layer waterproof jacket that features an abrasion-resistant shell with a tapered body for a secure and insulated fit and reflective panels to break thermal cameras’ algorithms.

Lastly, there are various types of accessories that function as anti-surveillance clothing. These accessories include RFID-blocking wallet sleeves, passport covers, and phone cases that protect an individual’s electronic privacy from scanners and identity thieves. These products are designed to prevent signals and transactions from being intercepted, thus protecting users from being tracked. Additionally, smartphone cases that block IMSI-catcher devices that are capable of intercepting cell phone calls and tracking the device’s location are a popular type of accessory. In such cases, or covers, the phone signals cannot be intercepted by IMSI-catchers hence cannot be tracked.

CHALLENGES FACED BY ANTI-SURVEILLANCE CLOTHING

One of the primary challenges of anti-surveillance clothing is the technical complexity involved in designing garments that can effectively block various forms of surveillance. Camera and facial recognition technologies are used widely across various settings, including public spaces and workplaces. These technologies are designed to track movement, monitor behavior, and identify individuals, making it challenging to develop solutions that can evade them. Anti-surveillance clothing needs to be designed with the specific technologies in mind and should be tested rigorously to ensure their efficacy.

Another significant challenge faced by anti-surveillance clothing is the lack of regulation and standards in this emerging market. The absence of common standards means that there is a range of products available in the market that varies significantly in terms of quality and effectiveness. Designers need to take responsibility for ensuring that their products meet a certain standard of privacy protection that can be verified by third parties.

Additionally, anti-surveillance clothing presents several significant design challenges. One of the primary design challenges is creating garments that provide privacy protection without compromising comfort and functionality. Clothing needs to be breathable, lightweight, and flexible enough to allow free movement while, at the same time, preventing surveillance technologies from detecting or identifying the wearer.

Another key design challenge is the aesthetics of anti-surveillance clothing. While the primary function of these garments is to provide privacy protection, they also need to be visually appealing and fashionable. This is especially important as these garments are often marketed toward a younger demographic who prioritize style and individuality. Designers need to balance the technical requirements of the clothing with the trends and aesthetics of the fashion industry to ensure that the garments are appealing and popular among consumers.

Furthermore, anti-surveillance clothing faces marketing and pricing challenges. While privacy concerns and security issues around surveillance are growing, there is still a lack of widespread awareness of the existence of anti-surveillance clothing. Designers need to create effective marketing strategies to educate consumers about privacy protection and the benefits of anti-surveillance clothing. Additionally, these garments are typically more expensive than ordinary clothing due to their technical requirements and specialized design. As such, designers need to ensure that their pricing is accessible to consumers, which may require developing cost-effective manufacturing methods to keep production costs low.

THE FUTURE OF ANTI-SURVEILLANCE CLOTHING

Anti-surveillance clothing can take many forms, from garments that block facial recognition algorithms to clothing that conceals heat signatures. These garments are designed to allow individuals to maintain their anonymity and privacy in public spaces. However, as the technology behind surveillance evolves, the future of anti-surveillance clothing is likely to change as well.

One potential future for anti-surveillance clothing is the development of more advanced materials and technology. For example, researchers are currently working on fabrics that can block radio frequency identification (RFID) signals, which are used in many forms of electronic payment and identification. If this technology is successful, it could be incorporated into anti-surveillance clothing, making it more effective at protecting individuals from unwanted tracking and surveillance.

Another potential area of development for anti-surveillance clothing is in the use of advanced electronics. For example, clothing could include built-in sensors that detect the presence of surveillance cameras or other tracking devices. These sensors could then signal to the wearer when they are being monitored, allowing them to take steps to avoid being detected.

Additionally, anti-surveillance clothing could also incorporate technologies such as electronic jamming that interfere with the signals used by surveillance devices. By jamming these signals, anti-surveillance clothing could effectively render these devices ineffective, allowing individuals to move about in public spaces without being tracked or monitored.

However, anti-surveillance clothing does have limitations and drawbacks that designers need to consider. One major limitation of anti-surveillance clothing is that it may not be effective against all forms of surveillance. For example, it may be difficult to design clothing that can block the use of drones, which are increasingly being used for surveillance purposes.

Another drawback of anti-surveillance clothing is that it may be perceived as suspicious or even illegal by law enforcement or security personnel. This could lead to increased scrutiny or even harassment of individuals wearing anti-surveillance clothing in public spaces.

As anti-surveillance clothing becomes more mainstream, designers will need to consider these limitations and drawbacks and work to create garments that balance functionality with style and practicality. This will require collaboration between designers and individuals from diverse backgrounds, including technology experts, legal professionals, and privacy advocates.

Anti-surveillance clothing represents an essential development in society, offering a solution to the pressing concerns surrounding privacy invasion and surveillance. This clothing item serves as a powerful tool that enables people to resist the intrusion of surveillance technologies and protect their individual autonomy and privacy rights. Despite facing challenges such as technical difficulties, a lack of regulation, and design considerations, anti-surveillance clothing has the potential to transform the fashion industry and safeguard our fundamental rights. Collaboration between designers, technology experts, and privacy advocates is necessary to ensure its effectiveness and accessibility. Moving forward, it is crucial for designers to create garments that strike a balance between style, comfort, and privacy protection, thereby empowering individuals to reclaim their right to privacy in an increasingly surveilled world.

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Alina Birjuk

Documentary photographer - Creative director - Designer - Slow Life