Weaving a quick history — Indian Textiles
We Indians always had a knack for weaving.
The production of cotton and its technique was first honed by the residents of Harappa and Mohenjo Daro. Weavers from the Indus Valley Civilization had mastered the art way back, as far as circa 2500 BC, predating other civilizational cultures.
India artisans then learnt the process of silk manufacturing from China. Silk yarn transited through areas of modern day Assam and slowly, Indian textiles started to make their way into foreign lands.
Business was booming.
From the shores of Gujarat and Bengal to the Malabar and Coromandel coasts, fleets of boats would set sail towards Egypt, Arabia and China, carrying exquisite cotton and silk fabrics. Indian weaves garnered a special reputation throughout the world.
But all this wasn’t just a stroke of luck.
Indian craftworkers and artisans one upped their counterparts across the globe by one canny ability — they could adapt their designs to suit any particular market. Add that to their expertise of the handloom and what you get is a winning formula.
From then on, there was no stopping these master craftworkers.
Our dominance in the textiles industry continued for centuries. The courts of India — from the Mauryans, all the way down to the Mughals — were all patrons of weavers and their weaves.
As demand grew, the handloom industry expanded. By the 17th century, European demand was soaring and Indian muslin became a status symbol abroad.
The next few centuries weren’t as kind. Things changed drastically and took a turn for the worse.
With the onset of the Industrial Revolution in the 18th century, mechanised mills were pitted against the handloom industry. Protectionism in Europe was rife and handwoven fabrics, though better in quality, lost out to the fast producing power loom.
Although Indian cotton production briefly picked up during the 19th century, on account of limited supplies during the American Civil War, Indian textiles and its glory days were long gone.
Up until now.
A renewed interest in craft traditions and its revival is taking place.
NGOs, socially conscious enterprises like Bareek, government support as well as ethical consumerism are just some of the enablers for this change over the last decade.
With this continued momentum, Indian handwoven textiles and fabrics are sure to have a lucrative spell in the next decade.
And in a good way, history may repeat itself.
Source material: Arts and Crafts of India by Ilay Cooper & John Gillow
