Belgrade

I still can’t believe that life has brought me to Serbia. In what world does a girl from the suburbs of Houston end up living here for a month? While it took me a while to warm up to a place that at first glance comes off as cold and gritty, I must say, it’s been a unique experience being in Belgrade.

Upon arrival, I was hit with severe allergies and a rough stomach bug, I even had my first experience going to a Serbian doctor. The temperatures felt like back home in Texas hitting the 100s, days could not be spent outside unless you were in the lake or pool. But now as I’ve walked the same streets every day, trained at a local Crossfit gym, which took exactly four weeks for the men to accept me and talk to me, and met more of the locals, I find myself feeling a bit sad to leave. This city has a thriving creative culture and its centuries of heartache can still be found pulsing through the art and music scene that stays alive well into the early morning.

Belgrade has seen some shit. The few random original buildings that have survived the 44 bombings and the Communism take over, are barely standing, wearing scars with pride, trying to hold it together. Constantly being battled over, overtaken, torn down and built back up, this city has survived to tell a treacherous story. The generations that still roam the streets clothed in their 1930s wardrobe, do so with purpose and independence. They won’t smile or say hello, but their faces, especially their eyes, prove that life has not been easy for them. If only there was an opportunity to sit down and hear their stories.

Since this month started off to a rough start, I immediately wanted to get out of the city as soon as possible. A place called Mokrin House, a co-working and co-living space two hours outside the city, came highly recommended. Five of us packed our bags and spent a few days at the gorgeous, modern space where we could wake up, run to Romania, work a few hours, take a dip in the pool, have all our meals prepared for us, then learn archery in the evenings.


We met several other digital nomads, traveling this great Earth, and sat around the picnic table listening to each other’s tales of life on the road. The fresh air was a relief as the smoking in Belgrade is outrageous. Every inch of the city resembles a 1950s Mad Men ad office, where men, women, and sometimes children are chain-smoking. It drove me nuts and it was difficult to escape. Not having done anything outdoors or active in a while, I was starting to feel homesick and restless in these big cities (I know, I know, shut up, Amy). I crave nature and connecting with the trees, plants, sun and wildlife. I need dirt under my fingernails and mud in my sneakers. Instead, I found myself glued to the TV where we had several channels in English, including Animal Planet. I had hit another rut in month 8. I yearned for the running trails in Katy, missed my dog, friends and family, I missed a good burger and the ability to drive myself out to a state park. I attempted to organize a 2-day hike in the Balkans, but found out that Serbian service was not well organized or diligent, and the hikes all fell through. So, I sat around in my apartment, looking up things to do, trying to catch one of the few Merakis that were in town, ate out a ton (the food is delicious and cheap!), went shopping at H & M, and did a few track events planned by Remote Year.

We learned about the rebellion against the development of the Waterfront, visited Zemun, took a boat ride on the Sava, and learned about street art while getting to leave our own mark in the city.

This month didn’t have any major highlights, no deep insights, no thrilling adventure, but it was nice to lay low, rest, save money, and simply live everyday life as I would back home … except I’m in Serbia, which is still crazy to me. I didn’t love it, didn’t hate it, I was glad we came, but excited to move on. Next month we head to Valencia where I am jam-packed with visitors and side trips. I’m looking forward to a breath of fresh air and connecting with family and friends.

