Exploring the Bronze in Bronzeville
Bronzeville, one of the neighborhoods that I haven’t explored quite yet. Which is funny because I live and go to school right by the area! Of course I’ve been to the McDonalds on King Drive (people from school go here all the time), Yeah I’ve taken the number 3 bus along the neighborhood to rush to school, but walking around the neighborhood while exploring the moments there? Never…
Until last week.
Bronzeville or the ‘South Side of Chicago’ is known for the African-American culture that portrayed in history.
‘From the 1920s to 1950s, Chicago’s South Side was the center for African-American culture and business.’ [1]
Located on the South Side of Chicago, just south-east of Chinatown. My professor for this class stated that the Bronzeville neighborhood includes the community areas of Douglas, Grand Boulevard, and North Kenwood-Oakland, but we were only required to explore 24th street to 47th St from Dan Ryan to Lake Michigan.
Bronzeville is such a big neighborhood to explore, we couldn’t hit everything on the list in such a short time even if w wanted to. Luckily, it wasn’t as cold that day, because most of the sites were outdoors (I still wish it was warmer) But at least we hit the hot spots. (ha!)
I went there with the same people I went to Chinatown, which has a positive side if I wanted to recall moments that we shared and compare Bronzeville to Chinatown to get a better understanding of the neighborhood. We walked from 35th and State St heading east to S Martin L King Drive.
Transitioning from the Illinois Institute of Technology campus we had to go below the ‘L’. Right outside the wall of the stop was the
‘L’ Station Mural
faces of famous Afrian-Americans painted on the wall. The mural has faces of Etta Moten, Nat King Cole, Dinah Washington, and R. Kelly, and more. One thing that they all have in common, they are all African-American musicians! Jazz, blues, and gospel music developed with the migration of Southern musicians resulting in a diverse audience. [1]
We continued to head towards the east along 35th. Even though we went early in the morning, people were starting to get around. From campus life to the neighborhood, atmosphere completely changes in the hustle and bustle of the people getting to shops and restaurants along 35th St.
Dominique, one of our friends who was in our group is African-American, resulting in explaining new cultural information. Whilst walking along the strip of shops, we passed a few stores that sold hair products that got her really excited. She told us how African-American hair is basically a culture and how she loves styling her hair in different ways, so there are specific hair products and tools that she gets in order to do that. Then as we start getting to the foods like Harold’s Chicken (which I had before because someone brought it to a party) and Sharks Fish & Chicken, she started telling us more about soulfood and how it is cooked and served.
We finally arrive on 35th and King Drive. In our sight is three interesting sites ready to be analyzed. First, we noticed the
Bronze map of Bronzeville
Located right on the median of the street is a bronze over sized map of Bronzeville embedded into the ground. But this map is not just any map… It is a map of the neighborhood with the streets and places engraved. It also shows the important history and culture of the African American community and what made the neighborhood by little nodes of institutions and historic places. Unfortunately, we couldn’t see a portion of the map since it was covered in ice (Chicago weather, tell me about it..) but at least we could see enough for it to convey the idea.
At the bottom, the plaque was inscribed
Bronzeville: Depicted here are some of the geographic, cultural and historical features of this area — the “Black Metropolis” of Chicago. In the period after the First World War, an African American community of vitality and influence developed along these streets. The mixture of people here, since the late 19th Century and those drawn here during the Great Migration of the 20th Century, produced a new force in Black America: an urban home distinguished for its accomplishments in business, the arts, and community life. Particularly notable was the flowering of great music — jazz, blues, and gospel — that has enriched American culture from that time forward. Today, the Bronzeville legacy lives on in a community that looks with pride to its past and with confidence to it’s future..
Adjacent to the map was the
Victory Monument
This whitewashed granite monument is standing tall with sculptural reliefs made from bronze of three people and one panel carved into each side of the shaft. Resting on the very top is a bronze sculpture of a solider. Built to honor the achievements of the Eight Regiment of the Illinois National Guard, an African-American unit who served in World War I. The Eigth The relief sculptures were beautifully crafted, added after the monument in 1935. [2] The sculptural reliefs are the African-American Soldier Panel, Victory Panel , Columbia Panel, with the Honor Roll of the Dead, as well as the solider on top or the Doughboy. [3]
What is the Eigth Regiment anyways?
The Eighth Regiment of the Illinois National Guard is said to have started as the volunteer Hannibal Guard militia in the year 1871. Later, becoming a division of the Illinois National Guard organized during the Spanish-American War of 1898 as an all African-American volunteer regiment. The “Fighting 8th” infantry, served along the Mexican border in 1916 and in France under Colonel Franklin A. Denison during World War I, when the regiment was incorporated into the 370th U.S. Infantry. [9]
To the east of the monument was the
Supreme Life Building
This corner building stands out because it is placed to be catching to the eye. Its roof on the corner that is taller than most of the building also has a thermometer on it that states -40 to 120 Farenheight. At the entrance it has a temple front pediment that reflects the classical architecture of the building. Before figuring out what the building was for, I assumed it was a center for a certain organization. It looks as it could hold a big capacity. Curious about what the building is for, we looked through the window and tried to figure out what was inside. From the ATM’s and signs it seems like a bank took over. Next to the entrance, there was a plaque with further information about the building. Stated on the plaque, the longtime headquarters of the Supreme Life Insurance Co., the first African-American owned and operated insurance company in the northern United States rested in this building. Founded in 1919, the firm moved into this building in 1921 when it was first built. The company wanted to modernize the building so they remodeled in 1950. They changed the original classical-style facade with porcelain-metal panels.
This building represents a great economic and cultural achievement in the history of the Black Metropolis that developed within the city of Chicago. Having the building as an architectural piece itself, and the starting point of the African-American insurance company.
One of the few businesses to survive the Great Depression in the “Black Metropolis” [4]
Deciding to go to the Stephen A. Douglas Tomb, we head east to 636 E. 35st. On the walk there, I started to realize that the buildings were not as tall as buildings in Chinatown, or the rest of the city. Another thing that I realized was that the sidewalks and public spaces were unclean. It seems as if it is less cared about on cleanliness than other parts of the city. Every now and then on the ground I see so many beer bottles, candy wrappers, chip bags, and the most common are the empty blue Newport Cigarette packs.
Finally, we arrive at the
Stephen A. Douglas Tomb
Unfortunately, the site was closed and we couldn’t get in through the gates. The good thing is, we were still able to snap photos of the monument. This towering tomb that expands at the bottom is visible from a far distance, I would say it’s about 40 feet tall. The first thing we saw from a distance before even arriving there was the statue of Douglas atop the towering shaft. That is pretty tall for a tomb!
I think the appreciation for his contribution is shown in such respect by elevating his statue high, making everyone feasting their eyes on the one towering thing in the sky. Being honest, I didn’t know who Stephen Douglas was until I read information on the plaque and did further research about him. According to the plaque, he was a politician (justice of the Illinois supreme court, member of the house representatives, and united states senator.) that was knowingly Abraham Lincoln’s rival. He is a contributor to the solidarity of the north. Douglas was involved in the issues of slavery before the American Civil War. The monument is placed in respect of the debate against slavery for the African-Americans that were enslaved by the Americans.
Slavery, he believed, must be treated impartially as a question of public policy, although he privately thought it was wrong and hoped it would be eliminated some day. [5]
Stephen Douglas was buried here because he died in Chicago in 1861 at the age of 48. He was initially buried in a brick vault at his Oakenwald estate on 35th Street. Plans for the monumental Stephen Douglas tomb now stands on the former site of his estate began shortly after his death, but the tomb wasn’t completed until 1881.
Right next to the tomb was a pedestrian bridge that curved and lead to the Lake Front. Although the bridge seemed like a bike path, visitors could probably still walk on the bridge and be taken to the Lake Front. If you have ever been to the 606, I feel like it gives the same impression for the bike trail that was recently built. This is a good amenity that is provided, since it is also next to a monumental spot.
The Pedestrian Bridge helps connect the residents to the lakefront fro 35th Street, since residents and visitors are separated from Lake Michigan by Lake Shore Drive.
I think the new 35th Street Pedestrian Bridge helps to maintain Chicago’s connection to the lakefront, without having to go to the existing bridges at 31st or 39th street. It is great for the neighborhood that it adds a new addition and lakefront access between 31st and 39th Streets. Not only pedestrians, but bikers also have friendly connection to the lake front.
The bridge also had an information plaque that focused on the Great Migration Centennial. It explains The Great Migration, a long-term movement of the Afrian-Americans from the South to the North which transformed Chicago. Delivering the new message of hope, the Chicago Defender newspaper (which I will talk about further in this post) influenced the Afrian-Americans to flee the south. African-Americans had 33% of Chicago’s population by 1970 as a powerful force in the city’s political, economic, and cultural life.
We decided to take the bus up to 26th Pl. and King Drive. Not going to lie, we were getting cold and needed to sit for a while. Another thing that I noticed as we were walking along King Drive, especially as we waited for the bus, is that the benches are made to be very sculptural unlike any other bench at a bus stop. I find this very interesting, as art begins to weave through the everyday act of ‘waiting for the bus’!
After we got off the bus, we arrived right by the
Great Migration Statue
The statue is located right on the median of King Drive, greeting the visitors that come from Cermak McCormick place. (which means facing the North...is this a coincidence? I think not..) This statue of a man wearing a hat and carrying a suitcase is clear, until I got closer and found the texture that carries throughout his whole body and drops to the ground creating a pile of…
what?
Of course, the plaque is there to answer curiosity! Based on the plaque, the man is wearing a suit made of shoe soles that rises out from the pile of soles. The soles are worn out and full of holes, symbolize the difficult journey from the south to the north. It commemorates the African-Americans who migrated to Chicago after the Civil War.
In my opinion, this statue would be one of my favorite from the other symbolic monuments depicted in the area. Because it is articulated so beautifully in how the man raises his hand in honor of ‘greeting’ the north, with a baggage in his left hand carrying all his hopes to be in the land of opportunity, but still grounded to his roots by the mount of struggles that his people has been through.
Done with the statue, we go down to 46th Street by taking the bus. While riding the bus, another thought that comes to my mind is everyone that I see, on the streets, passengers on the bus, walking strangers around that area is from African-American descent. There are no tourists or families like in Chinatown. The race is very dominant in the neighborhood.
Off the 46th Street and S. King Drive stop, I notice signs of the Chicago Blues district hanging from the lamp posts. As the Windy City is known for the roots of the Blues district..
Ahead we go moving on to..
Mount Pisgah Missionary Baptist Church.
A big church complex was settled in behind the gates. We couldn’t get in even though we wanted to. I am not sure which one is the main building (left or right) but both of them are connected by a transitional space in the middle. The left part of the church seems like it is in restoration or construction, it could be a reason why it’s not open to the public. The right part of the church is definitely more dominant in size, and entrance. Standing tall are six columns with ornamented volutes resting on top of them. Three entrances reflect the classical Greek architecture style as it has pilasters that hold up the pediment framing the door.
This church used to be a Sinai Temple founded by German Jewish immigrants calling this Neo-Classical building home from 1912 until 1940, when Jewish residents started moving to other parts of the city. In 1961, Mount Pisgah Missionary Baptist Church moved in. They played a role in bringing Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s Southern Christian Leadership Conference to Chicago. [6]
As we head back up, we stop at the
Chicago Defender Building
What is the Chicago Defender?
the Chicago Defender is the most successful African-American newspapers that had such an influence during the Great Migration. In 1905, Robert S. Abbot founded the Chicago Defender. He published the newspaper on a weekly basis as a four-page handbill. Even though it was only a kitchen table publication, it grew to be the most powerful African-American newspaper in America. What so important about this newspaper is that Abbot wrote about the rights of African-Americans, to protest on discrimination, being able to have a voice about political and personal action, hopes of the blacks. [7]
All of this was a big impact on the Great Migration because he printed stories of poverty in the south, while representing the Northern destinations that had the spark of opportunity. Abbot had the fire running in the South to join the Great Migration. [7]
On the way, we come across a captivating Mural..
A colorful mural that changes the color of the entire wall, you could see it from miles away. Depicted the faces of famous African-Americans…Even Former President Barack Obama. All over the mural is typography with I’m guessing empowering poems and lyrics that convey the hope and dreams of African-Americans.
Heading back towards 35th, we started to get hungry for lunch. The thing is, we didn’t have much time. Getting food and sitting down was too time consuming, so we were looking for somewhere quick to eat. At one point while we were walking, Dominique started talking about Chicken and Waffles because none of us ever had it before… Then…
A place just magically appears, that not only serves, but SAYS.. Chicago’s: Home of Chicken & Waffles!
Plot twist…unfortunately, the waiting time was too long. We would had to go another time. On a good note, it was packed so we know that it would be worth a try.
Not far from there, at 39th St was the new Mariano’s Fresh Market that just opened. Luckily, we know they had something to grab and go so we took a look inside. I felt that I was brought into a complete different world because I always go grocery shopping at a Mariano’s by where I live, and suddenly I am at a Mariano’s in Bronzeville? A few moments ago the area just looked like a food desert.. then a huge Mariano’s just placed in the middle. Which I think is helpful for the community, it is what they need. Stating my opinion, building a grocery store is a sign of gentrification that is happening and if it’s a benefit to the community without harming the residents property, it is a huge victory.
We walked out of the grocery store with food in our hands… It might not be the kind of food that we wanted but it was still worth it!
A community driven neighborhood such as Bronzeville that grew from such a history will always be in strong remembrance to the visitors and residents who are grounded to their roots. The greatly increasing neighborhood had gone a long way to find jobs from the south
Now being the most significant neighborhoods in urban history, especially in Chicago. Home to many aspects, such as music and business. Even struggles as the Great Depression could be overcame by the community, it is amazing how the power of solidarity serves triumph in life.
The neighborhood was home to or served as the launching pad for numerous notable African Americans, including Gwendolyn Brooks, Louis Armstrong, Muddy Waters, Ida B. Wells, Lorraine Hansberry, and Bessie Coleman, among others. Because of the contributions of these people, present day Bronzeville, which was also known as the “Black Metropolis,” is one of the nation’s most significant landmarks of African-American urban history. [8]
Chicago becoming the most important destinations of the Great Migration, the black population doubling during World War I, to the neighborhood developing and finally becoming Bronzeville…Even though the overall neighborhood still needs to be revitalized, as for some areas are not well for the community. Segregation and high crime rates are still happening according to the Chicago Data Portal. [10] Solidarity of the community with the help of the City of Chicago, could benefit the neighborhood.
References:
[2]http://webapps.cityofchicago.org/landmarksweb/web/landmarkdetails.htm?lanId=1444
[3] http://chicago-outdoor-sculptures.blogspot.com/2009/09/victory-monument.html
[4]http://webapps.cityofchicago.org/landmarksweb/web/landmarkdetails.htm?lanId=1431
[5] http://www.history.com/topics/stephen-a-douglas
[6] https://openhousechicago.org/sites/site/mount-pisgah-missionary-baptist-church-chicago-sinai-temple/
[7] http://interactive.wttw.com/a/dusable-to-obama-explore-early-chicago-black-press
[8] http://www.thechicagoneighborhoods.com/bronzeville
[9] http://www.blackhistoryheroes.com/2010/02/black-soldiers-in-american-wars-eighth.html
[10] https://data.cityofchicago.org/Buildings/Bronzeville/u8bj-s5s7/about
