Perhaps the most well known traditional Chinese dress is the qipao, or cheongsam, a form fitting dress with a high collar. Popularized in 1920s Shanghai, a period of rapidly shifting culture and political unrest that followed the overthrow of the last imperial dynasty, the Qing, it was a symbol of modernity and gender equality. It eventually became the everyday form of dress for women until the Cultural Revolution, when it was abandoned in mainland China as a symbol of the West and the bourgeoisie. Nowadays, it is acceptable in mainland China again and is often worn on important formal occasions such as weddings or the Lunar New Year.
However, the qipao is a relatively modern invention — and inherits from Qing dynasty Manchu-style dress, which is why some people are rejecting it as the traditional Chinese dress.
The vast majority of Chinese people — 92% of the mainland Chinese population and 95% of the Taiwanese population — are of the Han ethnicity. In fact, the Han ethnicity is the world’s largest ethnic group, with a population of about 1.3 billion, and makes up 18% of the world’s population. In contrast, the Manchu people, with a population of slightly over 10 million, make up less than 1% of the total Chinese population. So, the Qing dynasty was unique in that its ruling class was the Manchu minority ruling over the Han majority, rather than the Han majority ruling over various ethnic minorities. Unsurprisingly, ethnic tensions resulted in numerous conflicts throughout the history of the Qing.
In modern times, though, there is little tension between the Han and Manchu ethnicities, as most Manchu people have assimilated into modern Chinese society (to the point where Manchu customs and language are dying out). However, some Han people feel that the qipao, with Manchu origins, does not adequately represent their culture and heritage — and so, have suggested the adoption of Han-style dress from before the Qing dynasty, known as Hanfu.
There are many different styles of Hanfu, each associated with a dynasty or time period. For example, Han dynasty clothing was a loose, one piece robe to emphasize modesty, while skirts during the Tang dynasty were typically tied above or on the bust to create the outline of a fuller figure. Meanwhile, Ming dynasty clothing often featured pleated skirts and wide collars.
As a Chinese history nerd, I love the idea of wearing Hanfu, but am hesitant to do so because of the association of Hanfu with Han ethnonationalism. Many who advocate the revival of Hanfu and its incorporation in everyday life believe in the superiority of the Han ethnicity. Some support the Chinese government’s discrimination and persecution of Uighurs and Tibetans, believing that they are helping ethnic minorities by bringing Han culture to them — a manner of thinking not unlike that of European colonizers towards indigenous peoples. Extremists have also expressed anti-Manchu sentiment and even believe in conspiracy theories about Manchu people in the Chinese government seeking to destroy Chinese civilization.
While there are Hanfu wearers who do not express such ethnonationalist views, their reasons for wearing Hanfu are almost always related to pride for their ethnic and national identity — even those who are simply making a fashion statement, since people appreciate the look precisely because it represents Chinese culture. Accordingly, much of the Hanfu on the market is historically inaccurate because to the majority of Hanfu wearers, whether they be nationalists or just trying out the latest trends, what really matters is the idea behind Hanfu — its aesthetic as a symbolism of cultural identity — rather than any basis in historical accuracy.
So, while I do like to entertain the idea of wearing historical clothing, I would much rather not be associated with the nationalism of the Hanfu movement, especially during a time when more and more human rights violations by the Chinese government are unveiled. Do I believe that the qipao fails to represent my Han heritage? Maybe. But growing up, Hanfu has never really been a part of my experience of Chinese culture, so I don’t have a personal connection with it and wouldn’t be particularly giving up anything by not wearing it. And I don’t feel any need to celebrate my Han heritage in particular (as opposed to my Chinese heritage), especially not at the expense of other cultures.
In the meantime, I’m looking forward to getting a new qipao soon, since I’ve long grown out of my old one.
Sources:
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/22/world/asia/china-hanfu-gowns-clothing.html
