Cabrales has always had a harsher reputation as a cheese that is fit for only the bravest of palates, built on a strong story line, as a true Asturian artisan farmstead cheese, but during a pandemic, these qualities aren’t always synonymous with survival.
Located in the Asturias in the Picos de Europe, in North Western Spain, lies the sleepy village of Cabrales. Driving into the town, the land itself looks like it provided Tolkien for his inspiration on Middle Earth, long winding roads, steep stomach turning drop offs, and the snow capped Picos shadowing from above. Home to the cheese that many have referred to as one of, if not the most rugged and rough of all cheeses.
Cabrales gained PDO status in 1981, and has typically had a more of harsher reputation amongst mongers,makers, and majority first time customers. Rugged in the make, and very much so in the taste, its a true reflection of its surrounding terroir. Traditionally made of cows milk, seasonal blends are produced with the addition of goat for piquancy, and ewes for texture and sweetness, however this typically increases the acidity of the cheese.
Many of the wheels brought into North America have always provided people with mixed feeling on Cabrales, or is treated as the novelty cheese to get a reaction out of customers or friends. With that, a handful of makers have started to produce Cabrales with greater consistency, using only raw cows milk removing any attribute of high acidity or overly piquant finishes. 6th generation, QueserÍa Vega de TordÍn being one of these makers.
The beauty of the cheese lies within the land, the people, and of course the caves.The lime stone Caves themselves are the backbone to the story, traditionally after production a long arduous trek is made up into the mountains, on the backs of makers,through sleet and snow to mouths of mountain sides. Now, only for some, and most likely food tourists, a roller coaster ride up narrow switchback dirt roads in a Suzuki Side-Kick aids in a sliver of that work,
Stalactites drip down the entrance, with the caves stretching back hundreds of feet. A labyrinth once inside the mountain, headlamps are needed to navigate yourself through passage ways. Alternative entrances to smaller grottos are sectioned off, depending on temperature, moisture level and progression of aging. A resident affineur is typically on-site to keep on observant eye on his babies.Storing, flipping,rinsing aging boards, with a cheese trier in hand to ensure taste readiness. Penicillium Roqueforti being the dominant bacteria strain in these caves, begins to do it’s work. In 2 to 6 months time, the atmosphere creates a piquant, hazelnut and dark cocoa flavoured cheese. Most recently a prized wheel fetched up to €20,500.
The effects of Covid 19 on Cabrales makers over the last few months has wreaked havoc on their livelihoods. Vega de TordÍn in the heart of the town of Cabrales, explained that exports have ground to a halt, leaving cave capacity at an all time high. Forcing makers to sell off fluid milk a lesser price.
Artisan makers have also had to contend with mass producers of pedestrian, and or false PDO style Asturian cheeses. As Spain has just ceased their 3 month lockdown, allowing citizens and select EU visitors to travel, occupy hotels, and venture back into restaurants, makers anticipate a return to a “new normal”.
However that new normal might be a strict focus on regional, close knit European distribution, with a knack for artisanal foods, and that future exports could dwindle to a trickle. This historic Asturian food, created for basic sustenance and artisanship for generations, could revert just to that. However, this doesn’t just apply to Cabrales, but indicative warning signs that artisan makers face globally, and that when terroir, quality, and history of maker is neglected, we are prone to short sighted sales pitches and mediocre quality.
