Morocco’s Magical Medinas

Think of Morocco and you may well conjure scenes of narrow, bustling streets lined with stalls, and ancient, labyrinthine alleyways punctuated by soaring minarets. This iconic image is true to life, and can be found above all in the country’s medinas.

In Morocco, a medina refers to a walled city, often dating back hundreds or even thousands of years, and found at the heart of what are today sprawling, modern metropolises. The word medina comes from the Arabic word meaning “city” or “town”, and historically each contained five elements that all inhabitants needed to live their daily lives without leaving the safety of the rampart: a mosque; a water fountain; a hammam, or bathhouse; a madrasa, or school; and a communal oven, where people could go to bake their own bread.

The beauty of Morocco’s medinas is that, while they share similarities, each has a unique and distinctive character that reflects both the history of the city and its contemporary culture. Join us on a journey through the wonders of these living time capsules, from the bustle of Marrakech to the ancient architecture of Fes, the laid-back coastal ambiance of Essaouira, and the compact and colorful Chefchaouen.

Marrakech: A Carnival for the Senses

The name Marrakech comes from the Amazigh, or Berber, word “Amurakouch”, which means “land of god” — and the city truly does feel imbued with mystic wonder.

Wander through ancient souks, or covered markets, alongside donkey-led carts, mopeds, and locals on the move, as shopkeepers sell their colorful, fragrant produce — from aromatic spices to intricately hand-crafted carpets and embroidered kaftans. In the company of an expert local guide, sample olives from the groves surrounding the city and sweet pastries from a friendly baker, get your name embroidered on a handwoven raffia basket, and meet a Berber herbalist to learn about exotic spice mixes, argan oil cosmetics, locally produced teas, scented creams, and health remedies.

Emerge from the souks into the sprawling Jemaa el-Fnaa, the main square and hub of the medina. At the atmospheric Cafe de France, one of the oldest cafes in Marrakech, stop for a refreshing mint tea and look out from the panoramic terrace over the square — the perfect place to catch the sunset as the evening call to prayer echoes out across the timeless city. At night, the square comes alive with street food vendors cooking up a storm, all kinds of music, and stalls selling clothes, incense, pottery, fresh fruit, and herbs from the High Atlas Mountains, and — a true carnival for the senses.

Experience this classic destination with new eyes by visiting a hidden local art gallery, La Grande Galerie d’art Kasbah, where you can browse antiques of stunning quality; and join your guide as they take you literally behind the scenes at an ancient hammam to see where the olive wood from local groves is fed into a furnace to heat the water inside.

For a delicious and authentic dinner, Chez Lamine serves traditional tangia, a lamb dish cooked in saffron in a special jar-shaped pot, over ashes from the hammam furnace, and served with fresh bread and Moroccan salad: finely chopped tomatoes and onions lightly dressed in vinegar.

Our favorite boutique bolthole in Marrakech is Riad Almaha is a tranquil sanctuary amid the hustle and bustle of the city’s vibrant medina. Set in an ancient kasbah, the hotel comprises four formerly separate buildings to create an authentic yet spacious riad atmosphere filled with dazzling decor — from glistening turquoise floor tiles to ornately carved dark wood and plush, colorful fabrics. Step through verdant doorways into a timeless oasis where friendly staff take care of your every whim.

Essaouira: Laidback Beachside Ambiance

Originally known as Mogador, Essaouira was founded in 1765 as a rival coastal port to Agadir in the south. The UNESCO-listed medina today provides the perfect laidback contrast to bustling Marrakech, which is just three hours’ drive away. Small, easy to navigate, and with an unmistakably bohemian atmosphere, it’s perched directly on the shore, buttressed by the Old Fortress that provides protection from the powerful Atlantic waves.

The town was originally home to Jewish merchants, who transformed it into one of the country’s most important international trading posts thanks to its location close to the Atlantic and Mediterranean on one side, and Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains on the other, with the Sahara Desert beyond. Morocco had been a safe haven for Jews since the Spanish Inquisition in 1492 forced thousands of Sephardic Jews to flee Spain. By the end of the 19th century, around half of Essaouira’s population was Jewish — and while many Jewish families left the town in 1912, when Morocco became a French protectorate, and more left for Israel upon its founding in 1948, the medina retains a large Mellah, or Jewish Quarter.

On an immersive guided tour, explore this rich Jewish history at the city’s 18th century synagogues and the oceanside tomb of Rabbi Chaim Pinto, visited by Jewish pilgrims to this day, and learn why the town is also the spiritual center of the Gnawa, descendants of enslaved people brought by the Arabs from central and southern Africa in the 17th century. The Gwana’s fascinating legends and lively rites have survived through music and dance, and to this day are used to communicate with other worlds.

As the sun sets, casting the fortress ramparts and rocky offshore islands into stunning silhouette, join locals on the sea wall to witness this nightly spectacle before venturing back inside the medina to soak up the inimitable after-dark ambiance.

En route to or from Marrakech, visit the winemaking territory of Val d’Argan, founded in 1994 by Charles Melia, who left Châteauneuf-du-Pape to establish Morocco’s southernmost winery. Take a tour of the lush vineyards before savoring a traditional lunch with a modern twist all with wonderful views over the countryside and of course sample the fine wine, including Moroccan speciality gris, for which the region is so famous. Another essential stop on the way to or from Marrakech is at an argan oil plantation, where women from the local cooperative harvest pure argan oil, a precious product unique to this area that’s used in cosmetics all over the world.

One of the best places to stay in the heart of Essaouira medina is Heure Bleue Palais, a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux collection. Fusing the traditional ambiance of its original life as a Moroccan stately home, with the contemporary flair of a luxurious urban oasis, the hotel features a traditional hammam and stunning outdoor rooftop pool with panoramic views of the city and coastline.

Fes: The City Time Forgot

Dating back to the 9th century, the Medina of Fes is the oldest in the Arab world. A UNESCO-listed labyrinthine gem surrounded by a 10-mile (15-km) city wall, it’s home to around 100,000 residents, and over 9000 alleyways and blind turns — if there’s anywhere you need a guide, it’s here. It’s also one of the most authentic cities in Morocco, perfect for shopping for beautiful souvenirs and unique artisanal products.

Stroll through the atmospheric food market and take in the sights, sounds, and aromas of local life amid the narrow lanes lined with stalls selling fruits, vegetables, herbs, spices, meat, and fish. Then, continue to the copper market, where artisans hammer the soft, pink metal into beautiful pots and pans using a timeless traditional method.

Fes is also home to the oldest university in the world, al-Qarawiyyin, which was founded as a mosque by Fatima al-Fihri in 857–859 and subsequently became one of the leading spiritual and educational centers of the Islamic Golden Age. During an immersive calligraphy workshop, learn about the evolution of written language; and explore ancient manuscripts with one of the university’s expert curators beneath the cedar wood carvings and dazzling mosaics that have withstood the test of time.

At the nearby Madrasa Attarine, a Koranic boarding school dating back to the 14th century, discover more breathtakingly intricate mosaics and carvings in the same style as those found in Granada’s famous Alhambra, which was created by the same Moorish dynasty.

As you continue through the mesmerizing city, gaze up at the myriad minarets that punctuate the crowded cityscape. Morocco was never occupied by the Ottomans, so their Islamic architecture is very different to that of the Middle East — Moroccan minarets are cuboid rather than cylindrical or dome shaped, with three spheres on top representing the peaceful coexistence of Christians, Jews, and Muslims.

Continue to Allal Art Gallery, a Berber rug showroom and workshop, set in a stunning building dating back to 1350, and watch women hand-weave stunning carpets using a meticulous traditional technique. On the rooftop, take in sweeping panoramic views of the medina, before opting to shop for a unique and precious piece to take home. A caravanserai is an inn traditionally frequented by traders traveling by camel, horse, or mule. Step inside the beautifully restored Funduq Staouniyyin and learn how the lower level was used for stock and animals, and the upper floors for lodging and dining.

At Talisman Art Gallery, browse spectacular vintage jewelry and objets d’art amid a beautifully restored 14th century building that originally belonged to a Jewish family. Then, steel yourself for a visit to a traditional 13th century tannery, where leather is processed and dyed using ancient, and uniquely pungent, methods — grab a piece of lavender at the door to divert your sense of smell — and then shop for beautiful, handmade leather shoes, bags, jackets, and homeware.

Our top pick for luxury and authentic accommodation in this incredible city is Riad Fes, an oasis of tranquility and utmost luxury. Impossibly vast and full of winding staircases with hidden nooks, the riad comprises three buildings that have been painstakingly renovated to create a unique property featuring multiple atmospheric courtyards and spacious, individually decorated bedrooms overlooking the Andalusian Patio and pretty terraces. At the inviting indoor pool, cool down after a day exploring the incredible city, then head up to the panoramic rooftop bar and sip a cocktail while the sunset call to prayer echoes out across the ancient medina.

Chefchaouen: A Unique and Colorful Playground

Built in the 1470s as a military settlement against attacks by the Portuguese, Chefchaouen is today famous as Morocco’s ‘Blue City’, with whole swathes of its buildings painted a beautiful, eye-catching hue.

After the Spanish Inquisition, Jews and Muslims came to Morocco and created the first neighborhood. Muslims painted their buildings white and the Jews made theirs blue, using natural indigo dye, to differentiate the communities. In the 20th century, people started to paint the medina’s buildings blue to stop the glare of the sun on the mainly white buildings. Then, in the late 1990s one resident painted a staircase blue, and the trend grew from there to create a vibrant attraction that draws travelers from all over the world who love to capture wonderful photos and videos in search of Instagram fame.

In the main square, Uta El-Hammam, gaze up at a beautifully-restored kasbah featuring 13 soaring towers, the town’s very first building. In the old Jewish neighborhood, or Mellah, learn how the Sephardic Jewish population arrived in the 15th century after fleeing the Spanish Inquisition. Continue through the vibrant Berber market and stop at the Commissary, where carpets created by local craftswomen are displayed and sold — the ideal place to purchase a precious item at a price more favorable than in Marrakech or Fes.

Perched on a hillside a short walk from the narrow, atmospheric streets of the medina, Dar Jasmine is a tranquil boutique hotel offering down-to-earth luxury and a homely ambiance with spectacular views of the Blue City. Individually decorated rooms and suites feature Moroccan and international design styles and flourishes, and many boast a spacious terrace with spectacular views. At the end of a day exploring, head back up to the hotel for a refreshing dip in the outdoor pool and then sip a mint tea or mocktail on the restaurant terrace as the sun sets.