Azores — of tales, whales, tiles, and miles. Part 3
The discovery and settlement of the Azores archipelago is one of the most controversial aspects of the Portuguese Age of Discovery. In addition to many theories, myths and stories written about the Azores, there have been various Genoese and Catalan maps produced since 1351 that identified islands in the Atlantic. Some chroniclers note that sailors knew of the islands, and visited them during return voyages from the Canary Islands (about 1340–1345).
In “A History of the Azores” by Thomas Ashe, written in 1813 the author identified a Fleming, Joshua Vander Berg of Bruges, who made land in the archipelago during a storm on his way to Lisbon. Ashe then claimed that the Portuguese explored the area and claimed it for Portugal shortly after.
Other stories note the discovery of the first islands (São Miguel Island, Santa Maria Island and Terceira Island) were made by sailors in the service of Henry the Navigator, although there are few written documents to support the claims.
It is claimed that officially Portuguese navigators discovered the islands in the XV century. The official date of the discovery of the Azores is 1427 by the Portuguese explorer, Diogo de Silves, who first saw the islands of Santa Maria and São Miguel.
Throughout its history, it has experienced prosperity, piracy, and revolution. These days, it is renowned for its easy-going atmosphere and spectacular scenery, delicious food, and extreme sports events.
The name ‘Azores’, is believed to be given after the first sailors saw the common buzzards and had mistaken it with the goshawk. The common buzzard now is the symbol on the Azorean flag.
Because of its location in the center of the Atlantic Ocean, the Azores are chosen by many types of birds as a place to stop and rest, as well as for breeding (migratory birds).
All the islands of the archipelago of the Azores, without exception, have a volcanic origin. Their formation is related to the triple joint of the three tectonic plaques: North American, Euro-Asiatic and African. The archipelago consists of 9 islands, which are formed in 3 geographical groups: Eastern (S. Miguel and Sta. Maria), Central (Terceira, Faial, Pico, Graciosa, and S. Jorge) and Western (Flores and Corvo).
First settlements
The first settlement of the island of Santa Maria, as well as the Azores, was in 1439, at Praia dos Lobos, on the sides of a stream of water called Ribeira do Capitão. Santa Maria, the oldest island, over 8 million years old, is the only island of the archipelago where fossils can be found because, for some time, the island was underwater.
The island of São Miguel was settled in 1444, by Gonçalo Velho Cabral, who started at the town of Povoação. Over time, the settlers started to spread on the coastline in order to have the best access, conditions, and facilities. Nowadays, the Green Island, as Sao Miguel is deservedly called, has six municipalities: Lagoa, Nordeste, Ponta Delgada, Vila da Povoação, Ribeira Grande and Vila Franca do Campo.
So let’s take a short break on each municipality (except Lagoa, as I didn’t explore that area much) and get a taste of what they are famous for.
Povoação
Povoação simply means “settlement” (povoar + -ção, possibly corresponding to Late Latin populatio, populationem, from Latin populus)
The first capital of the Island of São Miguel was Vila Franca do Campo, founded in the middle of the 15th century by Gonçalo Vaz Botelho. The settlement was elevated to the status of town in 1472.
The greatest tragedy to befall the Azores occurred on 20 October 1522, when a violent earthquake hit the area of Vila Franca do Campo. During the earthquake and subsequent landslide, 5000 people were killed. Many of the residents were buried alive from a landslide and debris.
Because of its destruction, the capital of São Miguel was transferred to Ponta Delgada. The town began to prosper again from the 18th century onwards from orange plantations, and later, from pineapple production.
And bananas! I completely forgot about bananas.
In front of the mainland town of Vila Franca do Campo, in just 700 -1000 m distance, lies Vila Franca do Campo Islet. The perfectly shaped circle right in the middle of it is a lake formed by an ancient underwater volcano, with a small channel connecting it to the ocean waters. The same channel, called Boquete, is a path for boats transporting tourists to the magical natural setting. It faces north, i.e. towards the coast of São Miguel, which prevents the entry of waves from the sea.
Interesting detail — the limit of tourists per day is only 400!
Over the years, the islet has helped whalers spot their targets and has also served as a military fort. In 1983, the unique location was declared a nature reserve to protect the endemic vegetation around the crater, as well as the crustaceans and birds who have made the islet their home.
Nordeste
Nordeste means ‘North-East’, is located in the northeast of the island of Sao Miguel, and is the least populated municipality of the island. Getting there from Vila Franca do Campo, passing through Povoacao, going up and up along the mountainous route you can get a glance at the Santa Maria island if the skies are clear and if the weather permits, of course.
The town is famous for its lighthouse — Farol do Arnel, and that’s basically it.
Nordeste has a somewhat sleepy atmosphere, but it is still nice in its silence and coziness. What’s unique about this town is the spectacular bridge standing on 7 arches — completed in 1883.
Ribeira Grande
The name of the city means ‘Big River’ due to the wide river flowing through it. Ribeira Grande seems to be an artistic, chill and surf center of the island.
Most of all I was impressed by the Contemporary Art Center in Ribeira Grande — Arquipelago.
It is always curious to see how culture evolves in isolation and art (both in vitro, like in the art center, and in situ, like in the case of the street, including mural, art) is sometimes the only trustworthy way to learn what people breathe, what bugs them, what kind of food for thought they consume.
The day I visited Arquipelago Art Center I’ve learned A LOT about island textures... Yes, you’ve got me right — textures and materials of what makes this island, both physically and spiritually.
Talking about isolation, islands provide great space for research here. Digging for origins of the Azorean population, I have read a study on DNA lineages. The results are quite banal — the majority of the population came from Portugal (thanks, very informative!), some came from Northern Europe (okay, Vikings, but where have they NOT been?)and some African DNA heritage was found, therefore proving the presence of Moorish and African slaves on the islands .
But what is truly surprising is that the values obtained for the various diversity parameters in the Azores archipelago indicate that the Azorean population, as a whole, does not exhibit the typical characteristics of an isolated population.
So how is this possible — being so far from the homogeneously populated continents yet being so diverse, being so distanced from everything and yet being so connected to the world, being right before anyone’s eyes and still playing hide-&-seek? How come the islands were discovered such a long time ago and yet to this day it is quite difficult to find hardly anyone who knows who they belong to and where they are located.
Truly mysterious land…
My guess is that such an extraordinary beauty is protected by someone of divine origin. Maybe locals have realized that a long time ago and it explains their religiosity and abundance of churches (which are, surprisingly, all of the same design on Sao Miguel)
You’ve got my point, they are all basically black-&white, but why? No one really knows. And I thought, well, that’s just the way it is on the Azores, but I forgot that each island is different, and churches are as well.
[A little sneak into Part 4 — I will take you to another island!]
Ponta Delgada
Ponta Delgada is currently the ‘capital’ of Sao Miguel: administrative, cultural, artistic, economic center of the whole Azores.
I loved Ponta Delgada — it’s young, vibrant, quite laid back, colorful, spacious, artistic, fresh. It is anything but boring.
The ancient three-arched gate to the city — Portas da Cidade, Ponta Delgada’s postcard image, appears on the city’s coat of arms.
It used to be on the quayside but was moved to Gonçalo Velho Cabral Square to stand as a monument when the waterfront avenue was built in the 1940s and 50s.
Street art in Ponta Delgada
Street art on the walls of Ponta Delgada on Sao Miguel is truly unique and, as far as I can see (also based on what locals told me), reflects their reality and wishes. Street art at a glance:
Hearts of the Azores
But the most authentic part of the Azorean street art is a vast hearts collection, that I kept noticing all over the island, including in the most unexpected places!
I have googled him and found out that…
There was a Belgian artist, named Yves Decoster, who travelled from the Nordeste to Mosteiros, and painted heartpaintings on 315 walls of Sao Miguel.
He came to the Azores for the first time in 1982 and undoubtedly fell in love with the island of São Miguel. In 1988 he moved to the Azores and currently lives in Lagoa (too bad I didn’t meet him in person this time!). In 1990 he asked to do an exhibition in a gallery, which , at that time was situated under the city hall of Ponta Delgada. The response was beyond all expectations, as the people of São Miguel simply adore art. No, they LIVE art!
It has started as a personal experience of the artist, but quickly ignited interest in those who knew his work.
Every painting is related to a heart, which Yves uses to spread love and happiness to the island of São Miguel.
“ The heart is a romantic cliché, a universal symbol that everybody recognizes,”- Yves says.
These hearts in the form of flowers symbolize love for nature and love for people. Every painting is unique, not one is the same.
I am ending this piece with a tender jazz waltz song of Salvador Sobral, who will once again emphasise on the importance of love.
If one day someone asks about me
Tell them I lived to love you
Before you, I only existed
Tired and with nothing to give
P.S. Part 1 of the series on the Azorean travel is here. Part 2 is here. Part 4 takes us to the island of Terceira:
