Terceira island review
In this issue, we are hoping to Terceira from Sao Miguel, visiting second out of 9 archipelago islands. Excited to revive this experience in a story!
As its name suggests, the island of Terceira was the third island to be discovered, recognized at first as the island of Jesus Christ, is located in the central group of the archipelago.
The settlement was started on the island around 1450. Home to 56 000 inhabitants, Terceira is the location of the Azores’ oldest city, Angra do Heroísmo, the historical capital of the archipelago and UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In my story, Terceira was the second I went to. And I am incredibly glad to have had the opportunity to taste the different Azores. Slightly further away from the mainstream area, Terceira is unique in its charm and pace.
One on one with nature
Caves and grottes
Terceira is famous for its caves — the traces, channels and emptiness flowing lava left. I went to the Gruta do Natal (Christmas Cave), the one inside which locals decorate a real Christmas tree and where orchestra plays to celebrate Christmas.
Misterios Negros hicking trail
Right next to the Gruta do Natal starts Misterios Negros hicking trail, marked on the orientation map as a highly challenging and physically demanding.
And it was indeed so! Luckily, I wasn’t alone, and could have reached help in case I needed some, but I am telling you — this trail is not for spirit-weak.
Churches
While I was on Sao Miguel all the churches fell under the same pattern design — they were simply all black-&-white. I’ve been very fast to judge and claim ‘how boring! they are all the same!’ up until I landed on Terceira.
Here before my eyes I have found an astonishing variety of colors and beautiful architecture styles.
And even 1 gingerbread church in Praia da Vitória!
Another little big dream came true. Firefighters!
Those who know me also know how crazy I am about firefighters and everything related. On Terceira I was allowed to the real firefighters’ station, been inside of the real firefighter’s car where a real firefighter explain to me what is what.
Blessed. Obrigada eu, Eduardo!
Serra de Santa Bárbara
An inactive volcano that is the highest point on the entire island at 1,021 m is called Serra de Santa Barbara. Again, without a car, there is no way for you to get there. I hitchhiked.
The top of the mountain, an incredibly cold and windy place, opens a magnificent view to the Pico island.
Pico is also known as “the grey island” due to the volcanic eruption that originated huge fields of volcanic lava. The huge volcanic cone, Pico Mountain with 2351 meters, is an active volcano that is only dormant in one of the most appealing places of the archipelago.
Biscoitos
In the town of Biscoitos (translates as ‘cookies’), black lava rocks that shoot up from the Atlantic Ocean punctuate the piercing turquoise water seen from the coastline.
The water is often turbulent and uninviting, despite its captivating beauty, and angry waves crash against the rock to create a spray of mist that covers view-seekers if they get too close.
Creative tiles
Walking in Praia da Vitória I have noticed lots of tiles depicting prominents figures, mostly writers, and I thought, what an amazing idea to commemorate them and learn something new about the ways interesting people expressed themselves.
Along the beach there’s a whole ‘hall of fame’, once again everything’s on tiles. Pure pleasure to walk along!
Bits and pieces of big history
Terceira represents an important time in the History of Portugal. In 1580 the Spanish King Filipe II intended to succeed the Portuguese King and the island of Terceira took the side of D. António, suitor of the throne. However, after 2 years of violent battles, Terceira could no longer resist new attacks by the Spanish and it was occupied by them.
During the first half of the 19th century (1820) Terceira played an important role in Portuguese history by supporting the liberal cause, throughout the decades of Spanish control, the locals stayed loyal to the Portuguese monarchy. In 1828, the absolutists were dominated in the end of a battle at the bay of Vila da Praia, where the troops of D. Miguel were defeated trying to leave the island.
Vila da Praia was renamed to Praia da Vitória (Beach of Victory) and Angra, because of the sacrifice and patriotism that the people of Terceira showed, was given the name of Angra do Heroísmo.
Terceira, which had a huge port in which many huge ships would stop, was a very important economic and administrative center for the Azores.
After the outbreak of the Portuguese Civil War in 1820, Terceira became the main headquarters of the new Portuguese regime led by Maria I, with Angra named the new constitutional capital of Portugal, in opposition to the absolutist forces’ capital in Lisbon.
During WWII, Portuguese dictator Antonio de Oliveira Salazar leased navy bases throughout the Azores to Nazi Germany but later switched policy, allowing the British to locate in the archipelago, altering the fortunes of the Allied forces for a significant time during the Battle of the Atlantic. A year later, the American Navy constructed an air base on Santa Maria, but this was later relocated to its current home on Terceira, Lajes Field.
Ramsar site
Small island of Terceira is, but hosts even a Ramsar Convention wetland Verde Humida Costeira na Praia da Vitoria:
Angra do Heroísmo
Angra is a must-hit, the principle city of the island. Angra do Heroismo is where you’ll immediately feel transported back into a rich, storied history as you stroll its cobblestone streets, passing by old churches, homes, forts, gardens, and convents. Full of impressive architecture, the city — the oldest in the Azores — has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1983.
Instead of postface
Azores teach to grasp every moment, every breath, every color shade, they teach to travel slowly, analyzing and processing immense beauty load. Azores inspire and engage, open up steadily and carefully. They are as you want them to be, as you allow them to show themselves.
Azores are protected treasures willing to be discovered and rediscovered by the hugry for adventure kid you are.
I am definitely going back one day!
