Baelo Claudia — A Roman town on the Costa de la Luz, Spain

Anne Sewell
5 min readSep 11, 2016

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Photo: Baelo Claudia copyright Anne Sewell

Close to the small village of Bolonia and just outside the town of Tarifa on Spain’s Costa de la Luz (Coast of Light) lie the remains of the fascinating Roman city Baelo Claudia. The ruins date back to the second century. This ancient Roman town is 14 miles (22 kilometers) from Tarifa, and is located right on the sand dunes of the village of Bolonia.

Photo: Fish salting factory copyright Anne Sewell

Looking out over the Straits of Gibraltar, the town was originally a busy fishing village and a North African trade link, and was settled around 2,000 years ago. It is thought that in the time of Emperor Claudius, the town was very prosperous, as it was a major port for Tangier in Mauretania Tingitana (now Morocco) and also supplied salted tuna fish, garum and other products to various other Roman cities close by. The fish salting factory can be seen in the video included below.

Photo: The Forum copyright Anne Sewell

In fact, the city was so successful that it was granted the title of “municipium” by Emperor Claudius, which apparently was no mean feat back in those days.Over the years, however, it seems the town declined. This is most likely the result of several earthquakes that hit Baelo Claudia, the damage of which is still evident in the ruins today. Reportedly, there was also a problem with hordes of pirates, both Celtic and Barbary, that kept invading. The town was eventually abandoned in the sixth century.

A brief visit to the city of Baelo Claudia

On arrival, guests enter through the museum building. Those holding European passports can visit for free, while other nationalities will pay a small fee for the visit to cover the costs of maintaining the exhibits. The museum itself offers impressive displays of various Roman artifacts along with information about the ruins themselves.

Photo: In the museum copyright Anne Sewell

You can then pass through the museum and begin a walking tour of the city itself. First, you will notice one of three aqueducts, which were used to bring water into the city.

Shortly afterward, you will see the Forum Square, which is pretty much like town squares and plazas that we have today. The Forum Square is attached to the Basilica, or judicial center of the town, the pillars of which have to an extent been restored and are standing today. An impressive statue of Emperor Claudius himself can be found there as well.

Photo: The Forum copyright Anne Sewell

As you walk, note the condition of the cobbled pathways and paved roads, which despite the earthquakes are still in excellent condition. It is hard to imagine our modern roads staying intact for 2,000 years.

Photo: Roman road copyright Anne Sewell

The shopping area, residential area and the public baths are on view as we walk. With a bit of imagination, we can picture the local Romans, going about their daily life, shopping, cooking, eating and socializing at the baths.

Down close to the beach is the fish salting factory with its many bins. The factory was also used for the production of garum, a fermented fish sauce used as a condiment in the cuisines of ancient Greece, Rome and Byzantium.

Next up is the Roman amphitheater, the heart of the city’s entertainment area, which has been partially restored. Close your eyes and try to imagine the cheers of the Roman people as they enjoy the spectacles in the arena, but hopefully not lions eating Christians and other such violence.

Photo: The Ampitheater copyright Anne Sewell

Just down the drag from the amphitheater, various temples can be seen. One is to the Egyptian goddess Isis, and other temples worshipped Juno, Jupiter and Minerva. Each god has its own temple, instead of one temple dedicated to them collectively, although they did share an altar. The only other Roman town believed to have a similar arrangement is Sbeitla in Tunisia.

In the museum

As you leave, we can browse the museum again, where there are several well-preserved artifacts recovered from the site. Pieces of the pipe used to transport their water, a beautifully preserved sundial and many other objects of interest can be seen.

Photo: In the museum copyright Anne Sewell

The museum has a lot of information to read up on the city and even includes a “mock-up” of what the city probably looked like 2,000 years ago. A map is also available, showing the location of the many Roman cities dotted all over Spain for those history buffs who want to see more.

Photo: Mockup of the city copyright Anne Sewell

The video below gives an extensive photo slideshow of the city and the museum. Enjoy the various views and if Baelo Claudia is of interest, along with the gorgeous and endless sandy beaches and sunshine, make a plan to come and visit!

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