Dagestan: top places, features of the region, our experience of car travel
In August 2020, we tossed a coin to choose a vacation destination. We could not decide between Karelia and Dagestan. We made a wish that if tails fall out, we will go to Karelia. But the eagle fell out!
By the way, how do you decide on a vacation destination? Have you used a coin at least once in such cases? Or do you have your own ways? Share in the comments
Two years ago Dagestan was still poorly studied from a tourist point of view. Numerous tours have not been organized there yet. And in general, there was little information about this place. Many were wary of this region. Nevertheless, this did not stop us. We like everything outlandish, unknown and sparsely populated. The eagle that fell out helped us decide.
We went on a trip from Moscow on one of the SeaBus minibuses. We removed the back row of seats in advance to sleep right in the car on the floor. We took foam and sleeping bags. We were traveling through relatives with overnight stays in the Rostov region and Stavropol Territory. On the third day we were on the spot.
Even on the highway, as they approach Dagestan, we noted the driving style of drivers with the 05 numbers of the region. Their overtaking, undercutting, breakneck speeds and emotional use of the horn for an unprepared morally person can be stressful. In Makhachkala, we experienced a shock from the traffic. It was scary and chaotic. Later we discussed the topic of risky driving with Dagestanis. They proudly talked about their turns, love of speed and extreme on the roads. And to fasten a seat belt for them is considered shameful.
Top places of Dagestan:
Sometimes we had difficulties in finding a place on our own. Therefore, at the end of the article I will leave the coordinates of all the locations so that it will be easier for you to find them. Save, use!
In Makhachkala, we walked through the central park and the beach, saw the Caspian Sea for the first time. Then we went south towards Derbent.
We visited the Lun ekranoplan standing on the shore. It’s a hybrid of an airplane and a giant-sized ship. It was created in a single copy in the USSR. But then it never found a use for itself. But now it is a popular tourist attraction. It looks really impressive.
After that we went to Derbent. This place is unique. One of the oldest cities in Russia, as well as the southernmost city. In ancient times it had an important strategic location and was called the Caspian Gate. Naryn-Kala Fortress, which towers over Derbent, has a rich history and is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. From there you can enjoy a beautiful view of the city and the sea. Here we met a beautiful sunrise and walked around the fortress.
Then we went to the relict Samur forest. This is the only subtropical liana forest in Russia. By the way, part of its territory already belongs to Azerbaijan.
After a walk through the forest, we returned to Makhachkala and drove in a different direction to the next unique object. The Sarykum dune is the largest dune in Europe. It has an impressive size, its own microclimate, and is a natural phenomenon. After all, there is still no explanation under what circumstances so much sand appeared in this place. It was incredible and massive. I have long dreamed of visiting the desert. And we can say that it was there that my dream came true.
After visiting places on the coast, we finally went deep into the republic to the mountains. I must say right away, it exceeded all expectations! I was not ready for this, I wanted to cry here from happiness and the beauty of the views, stop every 100 meters and pinch myself, convincing myself of the reality of what I saw.
The Irganai, Gotsatli, Gunib, Chirkei reservoirs that we met on our way were insanely beautiful and had incredible shades of water. The slopes of majestic mountains towered above them. All this together created incredible landscapes. I’ve never seen anything like this before. It was strange to me why these places are still not popular and have not become a tourist mecca.
Hunzakh made a great impression on us. This is a locality that is located on the very edge of a bottomless abyss. There is also the Tobot Waterfall, powerful and noisy. Eagles circled over the abyss, adding entourage. It was scary to go to the very edge. Landscapes shocked the mind. It was hard to believe that people living here could admire these views every day.
Not far from Hunzakh is the Matlas Plateau. There we saw the Khan Waterfall. We wandered through the gorge, which is called Stone Bowls. This is a gap between high rocks, where you can climb and find yourself in a kind of enclosed space of cold stone halls.
Another place we managed to visit was the Karadakh Gorge. This is a narrow space in the mountains, washed by the river. At that moment, the river rather resembled a streamlet and did not interfere with the passage. But I’ve read about the possible dangers of torrents after rain. I recommend that you carefully study the relevant information before visiting.
The same goes for the Saltinsky waterfall. We were here during the dry summer season, so we got to it without difficulties. But sometimes the water flow becomes more powerful and problems may arise. The Saltinsky waterfall is unusual. The stream of the river washed its way into the mountains, making holes in the stones. Here you clearly understand the meaning of the saying: water sharpens a stone. And it’s hard to imagine how long it took nature to do this.
One of the most stunning views opened up to us near the village of Goor. There was a dirt road with a steep slope and a narrow track over a precipice. Nevertheless, we got there in a minivan. The Goor Towers are located here. We realized all the beauty when we launched the copter. The towers stand at the very peak of a towering ridge. The stone ledges over the precipice are in no way inferior to the legendary troll language in Norway.
Another place to visit is the Gunib Fortress. As they say, whoever has not visited Gunib has not been to Dagestan. Along the dilapidated walls of the fortress, we climbed to the very top. There is a stunning view of the reservoir from there. Also, the Gunib fortress is notable for the fact that it was here that the last battle of the highlanders led by the brave Imam Shamil with the Russian army took place. The long-term Caucasian War ended here.
After visiting Gunib, we were going to go to Gamsutl. But a rockfall blocked our way. So we stayed for a day, waiting for the road to be cleared.
Gamsutl is a ghost town that is located at the top. The last resident died in 2015, since then no one has lived here. You can’t get here by car. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the time and effort for a walking ascent. It is also possible to go up on a horse. Here you can wander through abandoned houses. It’s very atmospheric.
Finally, we left the legendary Sulak Canyon. This is the deepest canyon in Europe. At first we admired the views from above, There are several viewing platforms in the area of the village of Dubki. Then we went down to the trout farm, it is located right on the banks of the Sulak River. There we tasted the most delicious fish in our life with a view of the water and passing boats. I strongly recommend visiting this place.
From the notes:
The locals are hospitable. They were very welcoming to us. Many came up, offered help and invited them to visit. Once we even accepted the invitation and stayed overnight with Magomed and his family. We were fed, put to sleep in our own room, and lay down on the floor. We were touched to the core! And Magomed explained that they consider it an honor to receive a guest, and all his neighbors would like to be in his place, because a traveler staying in the house of a mountaineer promises happiness to the owner.
Dagestan is an insanely beautiful region. But besides the beauty, there are dangers here. For example, the local driving style, which I wrote about earlier. News is constantly flashing with various incidents: boats colliding with tourists in the Sulak Canyon, cars flying into the abyss, and etc.
You also need to be careful before visiting the narrows, where streams sometimes rage or on the edge of a cliff, taking another photo. It’s beautiful, but first of all you need to observe security measures.
You need to be prepared for rockfalls that block traffic. We also encountered this, and as we understood, this is a frequent occurrence. But this is not surprising in the edge of the mountains.
In addition to the delight of the greatness of nature, I was terribly sad to see a huge amount of garbage. For example, the divine beauty of the reservoir was desecrated by thousands of plastic bottles floating in the backwaters.
Sometimes it was impossible to enter public toilets. Again, because of the dirt. Even in a restaurant where everything was beautiful, the toilet left much to be desired. It was disgusting.
We did not swim in the Caspian Sea. After visiting Dagestan, I read about cases of poisoning after swimming in the sea. It turned out to be sewage drains that go directly into the Caspian Sea near the central beach. It’s horrible.
Another problem of the region is refueling with low-quality fuel. We did not meet any gas stations familiar throughout the country. But there was nothing to do, they refueled. As a result, after this trip I had to clean the fuel system.
Nevertheless, despite the voiced shortcomings, this region, absolutely, deserves tourist attention. Undervalued, unexplored, but insanely beautiful!
I also did not mention that in addition to beautiful places, we also visited a large number of hot springs in Dagestan. I will write about them separately.
Coordinates of beautiful places of Dagestan:
▫️42.567570, 47.882296 Izberbash Hot spring
42.258848, 48.118431 Lake Berikey (mud, salt, with hot springs)
▫️41.941040, 48.379438 Mollakent, Ekranoplan Lun
▫️43.816877, 46.843930 Kordonovka, sanatorium, hot spring
▫️42.106155, 48.290398 Derbent Spit
▫️42.053332, 48.275292 Derbent, Naryn-Kala fortress
▫️43.010346, 47.230085 Sarykum Dune
▫️42.745797, 46.831950 Irganayskoye HPP
4242.555540, 46.719100 Hunzakh, Tobot Waterfall
▫️42.606200, 46.569900 Matlas, Khan Waterfall
▫️42.604300, 46.583800 Matlas, Stone bowls
▫️42.523300,46.909300 Avar Koysu
▫️42.428200, 46.566100 Goor Towers
▫️42.457400,46.892900 Karadakh gorge
▫️42.392162,47.068719 Saltinsky waterfall
▫️42.392900,46.955000 Gunib Fortress
▫️42.303800,46.996100 Gamsutl
▫️43.016500,46.832500 Sulak Canyon
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