參觀荷蘭羊角村的米其林廚房…我驚訝…

文圖/矽谷吉姆

「來來來,你看我這號稱『廚房界法拉利』的爐子,這個特別好因為…」素有荷蘭最好餐廳之稱的Restaurant de Lindenhof主廚馬丁Martin Kruithof 得知用餐的客人吉姆也是廚師,用不很標準的英文欣喜地像是介紹自己的糖果屋的孩子,滔滔不絕地分享給吉姆。不同於一般米其林餐廳,得了兩星馬丁還是親自下廚、帶客人參觀廚房、歡迎小孩到餐廳用餐、連小編和吉姆的咖啡杯都不成套,就像是到朋友家作客一樣!就是這樣「米其林的料理,但給你家的感受」的堅持,馬丁在寧靜的荷蘭羊角村闖出了名號。

對馬丁來說,他追求的不是米其林,只是做自己喜歡的事情,讓客人感受像家一樣的款待,不過,當你把自己喜歡的事情做得很好,獎章殊榮也就自己來了!這一直是吉姆的信念,也因此吉姆對馬丁可是相當佩服!一般的米其林餐廳總是服務好到感覺很「刻意」,高級到讓自己覺得配不上餐廳。但是在馬丁的餐廳,就是有說不上來的舒服。走過有河流流川的荷蘭秘境羊角村,餐廳在五分鐘車程附近,餐廳帶著羊角村那種舒服悠閒的感受。

一坐下來,服務生立刻上了七道小菜,七道!有沒有搞錯,我們都還沒點餐呢!吉姆說這是法國高級餐廳的傳統,就是先有幾道免費的小菜,不過七道也太多了吧!有插在竹籤上的可樂餅、上面有魚蛋的玉米蛋糕、吃起來像是炸芝麻球裹糖衣的炸番茄、炸番茄下面竟然是檸檬冰淇淋!還有像是手捲造型的超迷你生魚捲、放在甜脆餅上的鴨肝、旁邊有蔥的捲餅、炸米佐起士。每一道都像是家家酒的小巧,但是又像是袖珍博物館的裝飾一樣超級精緻!

特別要說的是,就像是吉姆常說的,當他發揚台灣菜的時候,不是把台灣菜一模一樣地直接搬到西方,而是讓你吃起來立刻想到台灣那道菜的味道和精神,但是又有當地新鮮的食材及精緻的表現。就像馬丁的可樂餅,在荷蘭,大多酒吧都會賣可樂餅,那是果腹的粗食象徵,但是在馬丁的餐廳,一吃它讓人想起起荷蘭酒吧的喧嘩、啤酒乾杯的豪爽,但又是以米其林的方式呈現。

吃了七道免費小菜,感覺可以回家了,噢,不是啦!這時候菜單來了,菜單是精緻的粉紅小捲筒,不同於一般米其林餐廳菜單通常只有一種選擇(像是十道固定餐單,你唯一能選的是配不配酒),馬丁的菜單有單點,也有4或9道菜的套餐,另外還有「馬丁的12道無菜單料理」,拼了,那就12道吧!

蟹肉是放在碎冰裡,碎冰可不是一般的冰,而是把蟹肉的醬料打成冰,配著蟹肉入口即化。有一道像是田園的擺盤,上頭的烤米真的好像毛毛蟲喔。龍蝦的熟度恰到好處,配上白蘆筍的清爽。有道菜吃起來醬料超像台灣滷味,有濃濃的中藥香。龍蝦濃湯、鵝肝、烤春雞、烤鴨。中間一度我們還看到廚師到院子裡採菜!

過去吉姆曾在芝加哥的米其林餐廳Alinea品嚐,馬丁的風格和Alinea很不一樣。Alinea類似許多的米其林餐廳,用餐是藝術體驗,極具創意的擺盤、烹調方式、分子分解等等,品嚐食物只是其中一小部分的重點,不少菜來了你覺得「啊,這是一道菜!」但是在馬丁的餐廳,每道菜都相對可預期,但就是很好吃,熟悉的食材藏著精緻的小驚喜,和馬丁想要傳達的「像家的感覺」精神很契合。

用餐前的前一晚,吉姆想起沒有安排羊角村的晚餐,臨時請當地朋友推薦,朋友也很看得起吉姆,立刻推薦了米其林。吉姆心想「算了啦,米其林應該訂不到位子吧!」但是吃了一整個禮拜荷蘭冷麵包的小編不死心,晚上十一點半,email餐廳詢問能不能訂位,為了表示我們真的很想吃,我還在信上跟餐廳說吉姆是個廚師,很想有機會朝聖該餐廳,不到三分鐘,馬丁的太太竟然親自回信,中午客滿但是晚上可以!

因此,在吃主餐的時候馬丁太太就過來聊天詢問吉姆現在的餐廳情況,吃完主餐後,服務生過來跟吉姆說,馬丁可以帶他參觀廚房!天啊,這也太驚喜了吧,不僅可以看到馬丁本人,還可以參觀米其林廚房耶!

馬丁的廚房有兩個區域,分成熱食區和冷食區,熱食區有馬丁口中「廚房界法拉利」的爐子,另外還有一個爐子二十四小時都不會關火。冷食區旁邊則有一個房間放著上百種醬料,其中還有不少中式調味料,另外三個房間是冰庫,放酒、食材、還有備料。廚房有個玻璃,玻璃的另一邊竟然是個小餐桌,讓客人邊吃邊看廚房做菜過程!吉姆說這在歐洲一些傳統餐廳是最好的位子,通常是主人招待熟客的位子,以前就在廚房裡,後來改進變成有隔小玻璃。

馬丁還像是科學家一樣興奮地跟我們展示他在試驗用不同的紫菜乾燥後作成醬料的一部份,另外還說他至今開業二十四年,除了冬天淡季歇業七週外,幾乎天天煮,更誇張的是偌大的餐廳竟然只有廚房竟然只有五名廚師!並說他沒到過台灣,但是去過泰國客座下廚,不過店裡經常有台灣客人。他也說自己去過舊金山的米其林三星餐廳「朝聖」,直說今年冬天他要去智利玩,到時候有機會再到吉姆工作的餐廳坐坐。

回到座位上進入甜點時間,起士盤上的好吃蜜餞像是手工製作,檸檬冰其林吉姆很愛但小編覺得有點苦,不過冰淇淋龐配的竟然是芥末醬做的小球,甜甜鹹鹹真是特別,接著咖啡冰淇淋、手工巧克力、芒果雪酪、手工焦糖一樣可口。吉姆的咖啡杯和我的茶杯並不成對,餐廳裡的桌子也有不同的形狀和桌巾,這些在米其林評鑑裡不是最佳範例,但在馬丁的餐廳裡卻彰顯了他以「做好的食物、在家的感覺」的初衷。

轉眼,狼吞虎嚥的我們也花了四個小時才吃完十二道菜,晚上十一點,離去前爽朗沒有架子的馬丁還出來跟我們道別,甚至為我穿上外套。

走出餐廳,羊角村的夜晚安靜地只聽得見微弱的水流聲。回歸初衷,把自己熱愛的事情做到最好,該來的殊榮自己會來,這是米其林大廚今晚教我的一堂課。

Two stars Michelin restaurant where the executive chef still cooks every day, and the restaurant made you feel like home and so comfortable! Amazing!

“See, this called kitchen Ferrari stove, this is particularly good because …” known as one of the best restaurants in the Netherlands, when Restaurant de Lindenhof chef Martin Martin Kruithof realized that my bf is also a chef, he passionately introduced his kitchen to us. Different from the general Michelin restaurant, after awarded two stars, chef Martin still cooks. They host guests to visit the kitchen from time to time, sit in the kitchen, and welcomes children to the restaurant, and all of these are intended to give guests a “Michelin cuisine, but to your feelings like home” feeling.

As soon as we sat down, 7 courses free appetizers were served. Amazing! Seven! Some of them reminded us the day-to-day Dutch food but is just so delicious and well-made in fresh ingredients and skillful details. I love one that looks like Japanese hand roll — the raw fish on top was fresh and the style was so cute. The fried tomato on top of lemon ice cream was a surprise and I loved it!

We selected 12 course “Martin’s choice” and it came with duck, sweetbread, crab, beef, fish, and many more. The sweetbread tastes like Asian marinated sauces, which we loved it. The crab covered with sauces which was made as shaved iced. The ice which made with sauces melted in my mouth along with the fresh crab. Awesome. Duck liver was also very tasty even I usually don’t eat duck liver. The lobster soup was very strong and you felt like eating a real lobster. Only small issue is that we got a small piece of crab shell on our plate.

The coffee ice cream tiramisu was great. I personally think the lemon ice cream was too bitter but my bf loved it. We are so lucky and honored to visit Martin’s kitchen and amazingly they only have 5 staff. So clean, so many different sauces from various countries, and chef Martin is so passionate and still experimenting new dishes using new ingredients. Of course, services was awesome.

I think the executive chef/owner Martin was not working for winning Michelin. However, doing something he loves with passion and do it to the best, then the honor and awards came. I learned an amazing lesson tonight at this Michelin star restaurant.

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