6 Things You’ll Love in Yugawara, Japan
Only got a couple of days to explore the charming hot-spring resort town of Yugawara? Here are the key attractions to fit in your schedule.
My husband and I travel the world sourcing sacred, unique, and beautiful items for our import store Nomadic Import Traders in Boulder, Colorado.
One of my favorite things to do on these trips is to have a long layover in new and exciting places. We recently went on a buying trip to Thailand. It was a busy trip with not much time for yoga. After nearly two weeks of travel, we were looking to decompress with some yoga and meditation.
Introducing the Town of Yugawara
We decided to stop for 48 hours in Japan and chose as our destination the beautiful seaside town of Yugawara. Located south-west of Tokyo, about 2.5 hours away by train, in neighboring Kanagawa Prefecture, it is surrounded by steep hills of green trees and winding roads.
Here are 6 Things You’ll Love in Yugawara
1. Staying in a Traditional Japanese Inn
We stayed at Ryokan Uohan, a traditional Japanese style inn (ryokan) — it was just like something out of a movie.
As is the tradition, At the entrance, they have the names of the guests written on name boards before they arrive. See mine below.
We were expecting to visit a yoga studio and had even reached out to one in advance. However, we discovered we were too isolated to visit. We didn’t realize until we got there, but the part of Yugawara that we were staying in was a sleepy little area on the outskirts of town, as you can see on the map below (the big red pin is where we stayed, and downtown is on the coast to the east).
So, we adjusted our plans and focused on what was feasible given the logistics of our base location.
2. Recharging in Nature
Within walking distance from our accommodation were several opportunities to get in touch with spirit and meditate in nature. One such place was Manyo Park. Its natural beauty was perfect for quiet introspection and walking meditation.
Within the park is the Kumano Shrine, which enshrines a god of hot water, which is important to the locals seeing as much of the town is centered around hot spring resorts.
Also in Manyu Park is Doppo No Yu, outdoor commercial hot springs where you can soak your feet.
Manyu Park was a mix of paved and crushed crystal trails that wind their way along the Sagami River. Along the way are waterfalls and shrines in traditional Japanese architecture. Each shrine had interesting little features such as a hot springs drinking well, large bells for ringing, gates to walk under and of course, many descriptions written in Japanese! We simply tuned into the beauty of the particular spot and enjoyed the exotic bird calls, the sound of the river, and the stunning quiet of the forest.
3. Visiting an Ancient Buddhist Temple
Also close to our hotel was Fukusenji Temple and cemetery. The temple is impressive, and I wish we could have seen the inside of the larger buildings!
Outside are large statues the most famous of these is the enormous Buddha head. It is said to have been moved to this location, which must have been a feat in itself due to its large size. The location of the rest of the statue remains a mystery.
There is a little temple where we were able to light incense and candles and meditate in the shade of the trees. Nearby, the cemetery winds its way up the steep slope of the mountainside.
In this temple were statues of Ojizo-sama. These can be seen on roadsides and near bridges with red bibs and hats. They are protectors of travelers and children; especially those that pass before their parents.
4. Bathing in a Natural Hot Spring (Onsen)
After a long day of exploring, connecting with nature, and honoring the local deities and architecture, we settle in for our hot spring (onsen) experience. My husband and I decided to opt for a private onsen in our Ryokan versus the “community” one for several reasons.
- The communal onsen are segregated into male and female sections, and we wanted to soak together.
- We wanted to meditate in peace and quiet — alone.
- I have a couple of tattoos. In modern Japan, tattoos, especially traditional Japanese style ones (irezumi) are typically associated with organized crime syndicate (Yakuza) membership. Of course, nobody would mistake me for a gangster, but many places with communal bathing facilities, including onsen, will refuse entry to people with tattoos as a general policy.
While things are changing and there is debate on the subject, it is still true that many among the older generation in Japan have a negative view of tattoos. However, if you do have a tattoo, never fear, you can still research tattoo-friendly onsen or book a private onsen experience.
Before heading over to our private onsen, we change into Yukata (a casual kimono for relaxing) as is customary.
We follow the traditional directions for using the onsen by taking nothing but the little face cloth into the onsen. The little room is bare, but the floors are tastefully decorated with stone tiles. We sit on the little wooden stools and soap up with the soap provided — think shower, seated, with copious amounts of soap…then, copious amounts of rinsing to get all the soap off.
The water was about 45 degrees Celsius (around 113 degrees Fahrenheit) — far too hot to spend a significant amount of time meditating! We did our best in unfamiliar and moderately uncomfortable conditions. Even though the water was a little too hot for us it was a relaxing experience overall, and we left feeling mellow and ready for sleep.
But not yet! We first had to do some yoga and eat a traditional Japanese meal in our room.
5. Yoga On Tatami Mats
While traveling, you often have to just make do with the space available. The key is to be open-minded and get creative — even if it means moving hotel furniture around, and potentially even hitting your luggage while practicing poses. Fortunately, tatami floors are excellent for practicing yoga poses on as they give a little cushioning and provide great grip for arm balance poses!
Tatami mats are firm but soft enough to sit on.
6. A Multi-Course Japanese Dinner
After yoga practice, we had the pleasure to experience a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner (Kaiseki). What a treat!
We ate fresh sashimi with the best soy sauce and wasabi, pickled veggies, miso soup with seaweed, grilled salmon, and beef stew cooked right at the table. We drank sake, a plum wine mixed drink, and amazing green tea. For dessert, we were served homemade ice cream and traditional Japanese candy.
There was almost too much food, but it was so colorful, I didn’t want to miss anything by not eating it! The cost of this meal was almost $100 US dollars, which is far more than we’d typically spend — but if you are given the rare opportunity of Kaiseki in Japan, we highly recommend it!
A Few Tips if You Go
The two days in Japan were as wonderful as we thought they would be and we left relaxed and refreshed. While I’m certainly no Japan expert, here are a few tips I picked up that will serve you well if you decide to visit Yugawara.
Transport
- Trains: To get to Yugawaya from Haneda or Narita Airports, you will take a series of two trains that will drop you off at Yugawara Station. There are customer service counters at the airports to help you purchase tickets all the way through your journey. Be advised that there are several types of trains to choose from, and rush hour on the commuter trains can be challenging with luggage — even though it’s your cheapest option!
- Taxis: Once you arrive at Yugawara, it’s easiest to take a taxi to your hotel. However, taxi drivers in Japan seldom speak English, so having your hotel name and address written in Japanese will be helpful. If it’s an obscure hotel, the driver may need to call them for directions, so have the phone number handy too.
Things to be Mindful Of
- Tsunamis: Many signs in the area remind you that you are in Tsunami territory. Japan has installed sirens to warn residents. Keep alert at all times, and you will remain safe. It’s good to get to know what sort of natural disasters are common in the far-away lands you choose to visit. Safety first!
- Tipping: If you stay at a traditional Ryokan that is top-of-the-line (you’ll know if a “house servant” is assigned to you for the duration of your visit) it’s advised that you tip upon your arrival, putting your tip in an envelope, and not as you check out of your hotel as so many Westerners are used to. Unfortunately, we missed the boat on this one, and we read online that it’s considered rude to tip after your stay.
- Etiquette: Several “typical” western behaviors are seen as rude in Japan. So make sure you do a little research before you visit.
Local Ice Cream Flavors
While you’re there, be sure to explore Japan’s unique ice cream flavors. For example, you may have tried green tea (matcha) flavor, but have you sampled black sesame? It’s delicious, and you won’t regret it!
