My Life In Imperial Vienna
Frequently, people ask me about my life in Vienna. I give roughly the same answer: “Vienna is an interesting city.”
An interesting city for sure. Unlike Madrid or Budapest — cities I found very welcoming — Vienna, for me, was not love at first sight. Neither was it love at second sight or the third, for that matter.
But Vienna was the right city at the right time. It’s an imperial city, and it has a lot to offer: museums, art, culture, cleanliness, quietness, and more.
While this may sound like a slow-burn love affair, it’s not. Not fully, at least, or perhaps not yet.
Unlike most major cities, such as Paris, London, New York, Barcelona, Berlin, Prague, or even Budapest — which was once part of the same Empire and — built, in parts, to emulate the wealthier neighbor, Vienna is a “hidden city.” By hidden city, I mean that the nice architecture is not “in your face.”
Vienna is like the introvert of cities, a little more reserved than its extroverted cousins. The grand palaces and monuments do not jump out at you, but once you peel back the layers, the architecture and history are simply fascinating.
Frequently, I meet tourists near the Belvedere area — where I happen to live — who can’t find the Belvedere Castle. “How can you miss a castle?” one, who has never visited Vienna, might ask. You can, if the castle is downhill and the walls around it cover its beauty.
But once you find the Belvedere, it’s truly breathtaking. The baroque architecture and the beautiful gardens make it a feast for the eyes. It’s almost like a secret garden, but with a royal twist.
And the Upper Belvedere is one of my favorite museums in the city. It contains stunning artwork including many pieces by one of my favorite artists, Gustav Klimt — himself a rebel among his contemporaries.
The Belvedere Castle is not the only famous landscape that’s hidden. Vienna is like a game of spies. The most well-known landmarks are like the city’s best-kept secrets.
Hidden again, the Schönbrunn Palace. A fairytale castle, surrounded by gorgeous gardens and fountains.
Also hidden, Volksgarten, with its beautiful statues and beds of roses is a hidden oasis in the heart of the city, and perhaps the most important of them all: the Imperial district. The district is home to some of Vienna’s most iconic landmarks like St. Stephen’s Cathedral, but it’s not exactly obvious where it starts and ends.
The most famous place and institution when it comes to music, Musikverein — which contains the same hall where the famous New Year’s concert is held, also seems nothing special from most angles, except the main entrance. Hard to believe that the famous Golden Hall is placed somewhere inside that, perhaps unimpressive, building.
“You see that?” a friend asked the months we were in Vienna. “That’s Musikverein. It’s so famous in China [the country she was born in] and it looks so plain from here.”
Musikverein may look ordinary, given the surrounding architecture, but inside, it’s a total stunner. The Golden Hall is the star of the show — all gilded and ornate with famous acoustics that just make the music touch your soul deeply.
Another question I get asked a lot is “How do you compare Vienna to other cities you lived before?”
I think comparing Vienna to the other cities would be unfair. In almost all the cities I previously lived with the exception of Budapest, I was a poor student, and the activities I could do were limited.
It’s not a fair comparison. To me, it feels like comparing apples and Wiener schnitzel.
Vienna is rich in history, cultural offerings, and elegant architecture. But the move to Vienna was not voluntary, my employer relocated, and I even found myself in Vienna after a separation, with all of a sudden more free time on my hands. I get to occupy that time with cultural activities.
Yet, despite its cultural richness, Vienna is known for being conservative, rigid, and at times, unwelcoming. [Vienna keeps getting ranked both as one of the most liveable cities and most unwelcoming to foreigners.] This is especially true for women, who are often expected to adhere to traditional roles such as raising children, and for third-country citizens. I belong to both of these categories.
It’s like the city is still holding onto its 18th-century manners or something of the like. While the cultural activities are great, the rigidity and the resulting bureaucracy can be a bit of a killjoy.
Now and then, as a reminder that you live in a country that has frozen time, one may even get shouted at in some cafes. Sometimes it feels almost as hard to penetrate as trying to get into a high-society ball without an invitation.
So, when I am asked about my life in Vienna, I confidently say that it’s a chapter of my life that has shaped me in unexpected ways (and continues to do so).
It may not have been love at first sight, but it is on the path of becoming an important chapter in my life’s story. Living here has highlighted even more the disparities and expectations placed upon women and outsiders, yet it has also offered opportunities for more understanding and empathy.
Vienna has made me question norms and values, pushing me to explore the intersection of tradition and modernity. The city definitely brings out the part of me that calls for social change.
Where does this desire come from? I don’t know. What I know is that I will listen to it and do what I can to be the change I’d like to see. Writing these Medium articles is a step toward that change. After all, change happens one step at a time.
