How One of The Seven Wonders of The World Has A Magical Spell Over Me! And Has Changed My Life!
Summer 2018 Rim to Rim to Rim Adventure!
My Redemption!
As I began putting this report together. I had to prepare myself mentally, so that I would present Why I really took on the challenge and then to present the true purpose of the report.
I didn’t want my emotions to take over from my disappointment from last summer’s attempt.
I wanted to be able to teach and share how special the Grand Canyon is and to respect what the Canyon can give you but can also take from you.
This report is the result of almost five years of preparation and represents my heart and spirit as an Ultra-Adventure Coach and Athlete.
My purpose is to have as many as possible love and respect the magic of Grand Canyon, to not just cross off something from their “Bucket-List.”
But to embrace the sheer beauty and joy that I have felt every time I drop below the rim. But knowing that the time spent below the rim must be earned!
Please enjoy my journey. But remember my taking on the Canyon during the Summer was dangerous. I prepared long and hard for this.
Please respect the seriousness of what I did by doing the Grand Canyon during the summer, at night and solo!
I’m not saying that to brag but to teach that preparation is key to any great adventure. Hoping that you’ll learn from it. If so, please share with other adventurers that are seeking to follow the adventure inside of them!
Rim to Rim to Rim at the Grand Canyon!
It was Spring of 2013 and I was obsessed with doing a rim to rim to rim at the Grand Canyon. I really don’t know why. I just know that I’ve lived in Arizona my whole life and had never even been to the Grand Canyon!
My Trail running life had just started the past year, 2012. So, I had been bitten by the bug! Why not aim for the big prize? I figured everyone did rim to rim! I was going to do what trail runners did. Rim to Rim to Rim!
You Can’t Do That!
I was doing a life coaching presentation at a client’s home. It was for a group of her friends. She was bragging to one of them about my Dream. She responded by asking, have you done Rim to Rim? Well I’ve never even been to the Grand Canyon! So, No!
Her response drove me on my quest. Well, then you can’t do that! My ego responded, You don’t know me!
I had already signed up for my first ultra-event. A local 75K race put on by a great running organization. Aravaipa Running. It was a night run in the desert near my home. It was a perfect place to begin my quest!
This Place is Magical! My First Journey in the Canyon
The following year, 2014 my daughter, Nichole Ortega, and her husband Felix and I set out on our Rim to Rim to Rim adventure.
Although I made it through without any physical problems. It certainly was not the adventure I had dreamed of. But one thing was certain. I had to go back.
This place was magical! It had lured me in. I had to try and figure it out, not to beat the canyon, but to embrace the magic!
What is the Challenge of the Grand Canyon?
The Grand Canyon presents a few unique physical as well as mental challenges, that must be addressed prior to your adventure. If not, the canyon could and will, not be kind!
First, depending on how you choose to start. You must descend either 10 miles, on Bright Angel or 7 miles on South Kaibab Trails!
Second, you must cross, what is known as the “Box” which is roughly 8.5 miles with about 1500 feet of elevation gain going South to North. Very runnable, which can be the trap for the unsuspecting “Adventurer!”
Third, The “North Rim!” After, 15.5–18.5 miles now you are faced with a challenging 5.5 mile climb of 5,000 feet!
Fourth, another big downhill descent of 5.5 miles!
Fifth, 8.5 miles of a slight downhill across the “Box” back to Phantom Ranch/Colorado River.
Sixth, you must choose which trail to take to the South rim, most choose Bright Angel back to the top because of the availability of water. But many, especially very fit trail runners will take the South Kaibab challenge!
Lastly, the mental challenge of knowing that going down is optional, coming up is not! There is only one way out that won’t cost you dearly. The same way you went down!
The other ways, Mule, Raft or helicopter, are very expensive! Be prepared for your challenge!
Rim to Rim to Rim is One Tough Adventure
Bright Angel is one of the toughest trails
Did you know that the south rim tails, Bright Angel and South Kaibab are listed as two of the toughest and most dangerous in the United States, as well as the world? They are! Mostly because individuals just aren’t prepared.
Especially with the extreme heat of the summer, ice in the winter, lack of water on South Kaibab. And the extreme steepness of both trails along with dangerous cliffs!
My Background
As an Exercise Physiologist and Coach, I love dissecting physical challenges into manageable teaching skills.
The Grand Canyon would become another perfect target for my brain to dissect and conquer!
Since 2013 the Canyon has been my Dream. Many things have happened since then. I had been back five times. All have been successful, physically.
But something was missing. Could I do this alone? What would it take? I was 59 years old. Game on!
Strategic Planning
The key questions mentioned above, and more would have to answered. I knew this was a dangerous place. You don’t challenge the Grand Canyon.
You must embrace it and take what it gives you! My last and most important question, Could I do a summer crossing, alone?
Little Pieces
Everything from the Grand Canyon trails, weather, nutrition, equipment or anything else that could potentially affect the challenge would have to be addressed.
I began the process for my Summer 2018 adventure in the spring of 2017. So, back in 2017 I began to breakdown this Grand Canyon Adventure by asking key questions. I started to ask myself and others the following.
Key Questions
What would the specific challenges be in going during the summer? Since I knew the trails, I knew the distances and the unique challenges of the canyon.
Bigger challenges would be about how potentially would the weather affect my plans? That means both temperature and possibility of thunderstorms common during the summer months.
How would all this affect my nutrition and hydration needs?
What was my contingency plan? Would I have a partner? Did I need one? What would be the qualifications of a partner?
What would my training look like? What skills would I need? What skills would have to be better?
These and many more came up over the past year. And honestly some of the answers changed as I changed!
From these questions I started to slowly put my plan together for my Grand Canyon Adventure!
Grand Canyon Training
My training has really evolved over the last couple years, because of my dedication to heart rate training, using the principles of MAF as taught by Dr. Phil Maffetone.
Walking, focused strength training and targeted mobility work.
All of these have been key components in my recent successes in my 2017 Javelina Jundred, 2018, winter rim to rim to rim at the the Grand Canyon with Grand Canyon Expert, Benedict Dugger and my spring, solo, Cactus to Clouds to Cactus adventure.
Along with an easy Rim to River on Bright Angel on a very hot June 23rd day!
MAF
MAF is defined as using 180-age as the heart rate max. Which I followed for 90 percent of my training.
I have also spent almost two and a half years becoming fat adapted and learning to be a better fat burner by using the proper training pace with MAF.
Grand Canyon Strength
My strength training program has become a huge part of my training, especially as an older athlete. Lastly, my mobility work was the icing on the cake, as I was able to greatly affect some important joint alignment issues!
Grand Canyon Techniques and Strategies
The first and most important thing was having a Clear Focus! I knew what I wanted to do. I just needed to create a very clear plan and find the right people and information to help me accomplish Grand Canyon Dream Team.
Stay with MAF Training
Since the winter of 2016 I have been training with MAF, as defined above. I was disciplined to keep my heart rate at MAF or below 90 percent of the time. This meant that at 59 years of age. I was doing a lot of walking these past couple years. A lot!
This also meant, as I’ve written before, not a lot of training runs with others. It just wouldn’t work, besides walking with my wife. But I was determined to stay with it to best prepare for the Grand Canyon!
Fat Adaptation
I continued with my nutrition schedule of Fat adaptation in training. It got to the point that I rarely ate anything on any run. Except when experimenting with foods for my Javelina Jundred, Cactus to Clouds, to Cactus, or my Grand Canyon trips.
This paid off big, not only in my health but with zero gut issues and having great energy doing my recent Summer Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim!
Fasting
Fat Adaptation then led to Fasting a year and a half ago, April, 2017. Which at first, I thought was crazy, until careful study of notable experts like Jason Fung, MD. Fasting was an integral part of my training this year.
As I lost significant body fat during 2018. This is a key element of being more efficient going up and down steep canyon trails.
Starting in late January of this year, 2018, I was able to lose almost 10 pounds of fat and I mean fat! My waist size dropped several inches, again!
Since my initial loss a year earlier. I was lighter and leaner than I was for my 100-miler last October. Carrying 10–15 less pounds of fat was a huge advantage over the steep Grand Canyon trails!
Grand Canyon Nutrition and Hydration Schedule
Over a period of 17 hours I consumed most of my calories in the form of dried figs and apricots. I started my Nutrition adventure about 2 hours upon arriving at the Grand Canyon at 1:30PM Friday August 24, 2018.
I would stay with the same carefully planned shake concoction that I worked on for my winter Grand Canyon crossing, Cactus to Clouds to Cactus of Bulletproof Coffee Cold Brew, Ancient Nutrition Bone Broth Protein, Beetelite powder.
This was taken two hours before starting.
Grand Canyon Summer Rim to Rim to Rim Nutrition Schedule
Before I go on with my magical adventure. I must take a few minutes to explain my unique nutrition schedule for this day. Even as I write this I’m amazed how it worked out!
During my 17-hour adventure I had five Vespa’s. One every 2–3 hours. They are magical when you’re fat adapted!
Next, I had four small packets of almond butter, a small bag of dried apricots, a small bag of dried figs. At the North Rim after 7.5 hours and 21 miles I had the exact same shake that I started with, made with Bulletproof Coffee!
I did have a cramping issue as I started my climb on the North Rim, after about 5 hours. I’ll talk about this later as well. I did take 2 salt tabs at this time. I took another two hours later, just encase. That was it for any extra salt!
Because of the heat and humidity of the box, I decided to take in some extra calories earlier than later at the North Rim with my shake.
But overall, I was very pleased with the relatively small number of total calories that I used. Especially with my cramping issue at 5 hours!
As far as water. I did increase my water intake. Forcing myself to drink every mile. This seemed to help, especially during time spent in the “Box” where the temperature and humidity was highest.
Grand Canyon Training 2018
Sauna Heat Training
Because of my 2016 Javelina Jundred, 100-miler extreme heat experience, and my first summer Grand Canyon attempt in 2017.
I incorporated the same “Badwater- type” heat training all year. Which made my Cactus to Clouds to Cactus Adventure so successful. I kept it going until two day prior to my August 24th Adventure.
I did two 20 minute and one 40 minute-180-degree saunas per week. The 90-degree temps to me felt cool! Plus, the dry saunas are great for recovery and detoxing our system.
Strength Training
As a former strength athlete turned ultra-athlete. My love for the weights will always be with me.
This is a very sensitive area in the running community. Mostly because most runners are runners first. I was a strength athlete first. I enjoyed the gym.
My goal was to develop movements that were Grand Canyon specific. I wasn’t in the gym to put on muscle. I was there to build and maintain strength.
I knew the Canyon required a certain type of hip, lower back and lower body strength. Along with good upper back strength to help maintain good running posture going up and down long canyon trails.
I believe you must know the athlete. Like nutrition, I believe appropriate strength work is personal. I personally weight trained up to a week out. Although not heavy.
During my 2–3 sessions per week I employed lots of heavy squats, deadlifts, many heavy backwards tire pulls, kettlebell swings, sledgehammer swings, plyo-jumps and single leg hops off 4 to 6 inch steps.
Tons of single leg strength exercises like squats and hops. These were all done up to a week out.
Lastly, focused mobility work. Correcting noticeable imbalances was a big part of the puzzle! Doing all of these, paid off Big Time!
I also continued lots of mobility work and other manual strength exercises up to leaving On Friday.
The Strength Edge for The Grand Canyon
I believe it gave me an edge, physically and mentally. I had zero joint or core issues again, just like with my Cactus to Clouds to Cactus Adventure in April, my Rim to Rim to Rim at the Grand Canyon in January and my 100-miler last fall. Amazing!
Under Training
That’s right! Under Training! I don’t believe I ran that much. Usually two, 3–4-mile run/walks during the week. Sometimes doing these barefoot, for some foot strengthening! One long climbing walk/run on the weekend. And sometimes a bonus walk, with my wife on Sundays.
Grand Canyon Running Strategy
After my success last fall in my 100-miler. The running strategy I learned from local running legend Nick Coury, that I first tested at the Grand Canyon last summer, and again at the Canyon last January with Benedict Dugger was once again followed to a Tee!
As a reminder. This involved running gently downhill to start. Fast walking the flats and Power Hiking the hills. The goal being that the hip flexors will be fresh for a strong finish up hill. They were!
This strategy once again allowed me to walk when I wanted to and run when I wanted to. I only took what the trail gave me. I didn’t try to fight it. In doing so, the trail provided the energy! At least that would be goal. Yes, it did work once again, beautifully!
Walking Strategy for the Grand Canyon
My mileage was low because even on my long weekend sessions. Which lasted 5–10 hours. I was walking so much, because of MAF, that I rarely did more than 25 miles!
Unlike for my 100-miler last year, I wasn’t worried that I wasn’t putting in enough miles. I had already tested my training strategy. I knew it would work!
What was different was that I incorporated 5,000–7500 feet of focused steep climbing every weekend, up to 3 weeks out. But still doing a relatively easy 3500-feet at that time! A couple things to note.
Barefoot Training
During the last two years I’ve included barefoot training as part of my strategies. Ever since having some foot problems. Training at least one day per week has proven to not only strengthen my feet, but prevent terrible foot problems
Trust
First, I trusted my MAF training! Second, I trusted my climbing and downhill training. My goal was to do at least one half the climbing distance of the Grand Canyon on every long day! Which meant 5–6,000 feet every weekend! Third, I trusted my strength training.
Keeping my hips strong was a huge part of maintaining proper running/climbing posture for 17 hours! Especially on the extreme downhills of the Grand Canyon, which presents a double problem of constant 3–4 inch to 12 inch or more of inconsistent drops downhill for miles and miles, which will and does crush your hips!
Total Taper for the Grand Canyon
For the second time. I really did no running the last 2 weeks, only some barefoot walking. A mile here and there.
I did continue my normal strength work, with some minor changes, such as not increasing weights and backing off on some of the plyometrics, until one week out, and my mobility work continued up until the event. I was more than rested!
Grand Canyon Pearls of Wisdom
I once again employed the wisdom of Ramey “Coach” Stroud, one of my Coaches. Ramey runs Cascade Endurance in Bend, Oregon.
He has a PhD in Exercise Physiology and is an expert in endurance training and competing. He had last fall reminded me of a tool he uses called, “Ramey’s Pearls of Wisdom.”
I once again broke the entire Grand Canyon Summer Adventure down by key trail landmarks, by time and climbing distance, on a small note card.
I carried this the entire way, checking it as I went along. This card helped keep me in the moment, when things might become very chaotic!
My Grand Canyon Crew
Yes! I once again actually had a Crew. My normal Guardian Angel couldn’t make it. Who for the past two solo events has been my sister.
But for this adventure, my good friend and founder of Agency-IQ, Michael Benson would be there for me. His great personality and loving spirit made for a great adventure!
Benedict Dugger
Benedict, like with my 100-miler, was a big reason I was even attempting to do a solo crossing of the Grand Canyon at night during the summer.
Besides doing a winter Rim to Rim to Rim he was like the person who continued to gently apply the brakes on my sometimes out of control planning.
He also continued to remind me to have contingency plans for the craziness that can happen in the wilderness of the Canyon, especially with the unpredictable nature of the weather.
As an expert in Canyon running, having done over 30 Grand Canyon crossings, he remained an integral part of my planning and training.
His Coaching and friendship once again made a difference. He even guided Michael and I to the South Kaibab Trailhead by phone!
Patience
Staying disciplined with my plan. Once again made a big difference on my Adventure. Being able to stay in the moment once again saved me from panicking when I experienced some cramping on the North Rim.
Finding Flow
As with my Cactus to Clouds to Cactus and my previous 100-miler, staying in the moment, slowing things down, made it easier for me to being in a flow state for almost the entire Adventure.
Using visualization prior to and having been on the trails five times allowed the trails to almost seem shorter. Things seemed almost too easy! Except for just a couple of minor but scary instances of cramping on the North Rim.
I tried to stay within myself and trust my training and just have faith! Being Patient and in the moment with my plan was life changing.
Be Ready For Crazy!
I always prepare for crazy things to happen. As stated above. I did a lot of visualization of the adventure and prepared myself to not over react to anything. I knew if I could slow things down mentally then I had a chance to respond and make good decisions.
Mindset work would be important during this event, mainly because I would be on my own and at night. I believe that having the proper Mindset and making this a priority in my training accounted for 75 percent of my success! Putting focused time into Mindset Training had a Big payoff!
The Summer Solo, Night Rim to Rim to Rim at the Grand Canyon: The Epic Adventure Begins!
Michael Benson and I drove from Phoenix on Friday, April 24th. We left at 9am and arrived at the Grand Canyon at 1:30pm.
Traffic was terrible! My plan was for as early a start as possible because of the impending thunderstorms which have been blasting the Canyon all week.
My big fear was lighting and possible heavy rains. There actually had been flash flooding in the Canyon two days prior! Up until we arrived at the trailhead at South Kaibab I wasn’t 100 percent clear on my strategy.
Mainly because South Kaibab is an exposed trail and would be very dangerous during a thunderstorm.
Where’s the South Kaibab Trailhead at the Grand Canyon
After entering the park we immediately headed over to the Bright Angel Trailhead. This is where I showed Michael where I would be finishing in the morning.
We then headed to South Kaibab. But where was it? I had only previously drove there once. The other two times I had taken a van. I used one of my lifelines. I called Benedict Dugger.
He guided us safely to the Trailhead! At this point the anxiety of the moment was building as were the storm clouds and it began to thunder and lightning! This was not a good sign. Spending a few minutes getting ready at the curbside parking.
The only vehicles allowed into the south Kaibab parking are vans, buses, taxis or employees. This leaves about a quarter mile walk to the trailhead. Great for relieving a bit of stress. Michael was great in getting me to stay in the moment!
Faith
After reaching the trailhead. Michael seemed very emotional. I believe after looking at the vastness of the Grand Canyon he realized the enormity of my impending challenge. On top of that it looked like it was going to rain! Not good.
He asked if he could pray for me. This was gladly accepted. We prayed for great weather and a safe trip. Within the next five minutes.
The storm clouds cleared and I never saw another storm cloud until 17 hours later after finishing!
Truly a blessing that God provided this window of opportunity!
South Kaibab Descent: Part One of the Journey
At approximately 2:45pm on Friday August 24th, 2018 I headed down the now sunny South Kaibab Trail. I would be covering about 7.5 miles by the time I reached Phantom Ranch.
Because of the steepness of the trail my strategy was to start slowly for the first couple miles and just embrace what the trail gave to me.
The key is keeping good body position jumping down the endless, uneven drop-offs. For the un prepared these can really ruin your day! My focus was on body position and staying within myself as the tendency to go fast on the first big downhill is certainly inviting.
I kept reminding myself that my goal is to finish strong and healthy with a big smile on my face! I made it to Phantom ranch in 1hour and 50 minutes. I was very pleased!
Communication with Family and Team
A big part of my plan for doing this solo was to use a satellite device that would allow me to communicate with my family and team. It could be used as an emergency device as well.
My good friends Raul and Debbie allowed me to use their Garmin Explorer Device. I was able to communicate all night at strategic spots. Phantom Ranch, North Rim and Indian Gardens. This provided those closest to me to feel much better about my solo effort at night
Full Moon Total Trail Adventure
As with my Cactus to Clouds to Cactus Adventure and my Summer 2017 attempt. I choose a weekend with a Full Moon! My worry was the weather. With cloud coverage the moon obviously would be covered.
But because the journey was blessed. I was able to experience the magic of the Full Moon affect all night long. It was one of my constant companions during the night! I was truly blessed!
Grand Canyon Trail Conditions
One of my many concerns before starting was the trail conditions with all the rain and flooding of the past few days. Especially on South Kaibab. The steps can easily fill with water. That ended up never being a problem. The trails were bone dry!
But the trails north of Phantom Ranch from about Ribbon Falls were in rough shape. Lots of rock slides. Falling rocks on the trails.
Large sink holes and generally much rockier than normal! It caused me to be more focused especially coming down at night!
One benefit was the rain had kept the dust down on the last mile or so after Supai Tunnel.
Navigating “The Box.”
Step two was now going from Phantom Ranch to Pumphouse Ranger Station. Which has been recently changed to Manzanita Rest Area.
Passing by Ribbon Falls at 4.8 miles. Cottonwood Campgrounds at 6.4 miles and Finally Pumphouse at 8 miles!
My plan which I followed to the letter was to walk as briskly as possible from Phantom Ranch to Pumphouse.
Knowing that there was a gradual 1500-foot elevation gain during the eight miles. But also knowing they would come back to me as a gift on my way back!
Again, I was very pleased as I made it to Pumphouse in under five hours feeling pretty good. I must be honest. I had to tell myself to drink.
Because I spend so much time heat training and trained all summer in very hot 100-degree temps. The heat wasn’t felt.
But I knew it was in the 90’s and humid. Which is a formula for cramping and other physical issues. Coming into Pumphouse I had felt some “flickering” of my left quad.
It just told me to slow down and drink more. But was it too late? After resting for about 10 minutes I was off on the North rim climb!
Climbing the North Rim!
I now was off to the North Rim. Which would take me to Supai Tunnel at 3.7 miles and eventually to the North Rim and 5.5 miles. Climbing over 3600 feet in the process.
Problem. Within the first mile my left leg cramped bad. I did my best to stay in the moment. Knowing that something like this could quickly end my dream.
I stopped. Took my first 2 salt pills. Drank more water.
Did some easy standing stretching. Got focused and started moving forward. I told myself that I had plenty of time.
Slow down, relax and stay focused. I began drinking every mile. Within the first mile after the cramp.
I felt much better. Before I knew it, I was entering Supai Tunnel. The temps had dropped, and the cramping was distant memory. But I kept drinking!
At Supai Tunnel I filled up my water bottles and continued. I knew I was close. Less that 2 miles from the North Rim!
It was significantly cooler and the dust from the trails was gone! Just outside of Supai I saw a light coming at me.
This was unexpected. It was now 930pm. I was curious! It was a North Rim resident who was an older gentleman and was getting an early start on a Rim to Rim! It was relieving knowing someone else was on the trail at night.
Onward and upward! I arrived at the North Rim at 10:15pm. I was super proud of myself. No cramping issues. Nicely ahead of schedule and feeling very energized! But it was Cold!
I quickly made my Bulletproof and Bone Broth shake. Emptied my trash. Refilled my water. Sent my messages and was off! I knew as soon as I was below the rim it would warm up! It did.
The North Rim Descent
The descent down the North Rim was the only part of my adventure that I had not experienced in the dark. But having seen the guy earlier emboldened me!
I was prepared with a bigger flashlight, but I never needed it. I took my time as parts of the trail had been beat up from the recent rains.
I was quickly back at Supai Tunnel, where the scariest part of my journey occurred.
Right before the water fountain, I had slipped on a flat rock and gently fell backwards. With both legs spread eagle, they cramped bad.
This freaked me out. Because I was feeling so good since my cramping issues hours earlier. I gingerly got up and leaned against the water fountain. It was at this moment that I felt nauseated. What was going on?
Staying in the moment, I took some deep breaths, stretched my hips and legs. Drank more water. Then I walked around a bit.
Constantly telling myself it was OK. I was! After about five minutes I started walking through Supai Tunnel feeling much better.
Within 15 minutes I was back on pace. Funny thing for the next 8 hours I never felt any more cramps or nausea! Blessed!
I arrived back at Pumphouse about 12:15am. Feeling great! I spent a few extra minutes here sending a message to Michael, topping off my water and being grateful about what I had experienced so far. Wow!
On to Phantom Ranch!
The beauty of the North South descent is that now I get back the 1500 feet of elevation that I used coming through the “Box!” I arrived at Cottonwood Campgrounds at 1am.
Did a short video of the full moon and was off! Still feeling great. Thinking could I make it to Phantom Ranch by 3am? Wow, that would be awesome! But I didn’t want to risk doing something dumb, knowing that I had the 10 miles of the Bright Angel Trail waiting for me after Phantom Ranch.
Just stick to the plan. I continued to walk at as fast a pace as possible. Jogging some of the noticeable downhills.
I passed the guy I seen at 930am about 3 miles outside of Phantom Ranch. We talked for a minute about some of his pictures.
Then I was off. I arrive at Phantom Ranch just past 3am. Feeling Great!
One Big Climb to Go! The Bright Angel Trail!
I hurriedly left Phantom Ranch at 3:20am and was off. I was very happy with the fact that up to now, I had never been off course, which honestly, I had done each previous time down the Canyon, at least once, except when going with Benedict Dugger.
So, leaving Phantom Ranch which I had never done in the dark, I went left instead of right, near the Ranger Station! Oh well, my record was in tack! I quickly figured it out and was on my way! Crossing the Suspension Bridge is always a little eerie in the dark!
I made great time through my least favorite part of all the trails. The sandy parts of Bright Angel that run parallel to the Colorado River on what’s commonly known as The River Trail.
But I was quickly at the Boat House. It was here that I took out my climbing poles. I knew that right around the corner was “The Devil’s Corkscrew!”
The Devil’s Corkscrew
For those of you who have traveled up Bright Angel. You are well aware of how, for a mile or so, you can enjoy some gentle climbing. Then “Bam” you begin a mile or so of intense climbing through the switchbacks of what’s commonly known as “The Devil’s Corkscrew!”
For those that have been lucky enough to challenge the Canyon to this point and stay unscathed, this one-mile stretch can sometimes finish off even the fittest of hikers!
Part of my walking plan was to be prepared for The Devil’s Corkscrew! Being that it was still very dark, I just put my head down and focused on one step at a time.
And before I knew it I was rounding the corner on my way to Indian Gardens! Wow! It had never seemed that short before. I truly was having a blessed adventure!
Indian Gardens
I was now walking a relatively flat trail for a mile or so to Indian Gardens. Crossing over a number of water crossings, which Bright Angel is well known for.
The beauty is that they weren’t bad considering the recent heavy rains. You also get to hear the water flowing as you walk through this portion of the trail. Amazing!
I was entering Indian Gardens just as the sun was coming up. The wind was blowing, and the temps were in the low 80’s but it felt very comfortable!
After filling my water bottles, taking a last bite of some figs, sending messages to those on my team, I just took time to sit and enjoy the sunrise.
I also took a moment to embrace and reflect on how amazing things had worked out for me.
How God had provided an amazing clear sky, Full Moon and lastly had allowed me to stay in the moment with any potential physical issues!
What an amazing Adventure! But hold on. I had almost 5 miles to go.
And these five miles had some of the steepest climbs of the entire journey! Was I ready? I would find out in the next hour or so!
Time to Finish My Amazing Adventure
Here we go. The plan I had put together was laid out to allow me to get to Indian Gardens and have a smile on my face and gas in the tank! I did. Everything felt fine.
So, I would push where I could. The sun was out, temps were nice.
Here we go. I would have about 1.5 miles to Three Mile-Resthouse. Then those last three miles would be some of the steepest, as I mentioned before.
I passed by Three Mile, took a couple pictures for my friend Greg Halvorson. And just kept climbing.
My plan was to get to 1.5 Mile Emergency Stop and make some calls. I knew I would have reception there. The trails were getting busy with early morning hikers heading down and those coming up from Indian Gardens.
I used them as motivation to try and catch them. It helped to keep me going. I continued to feel good. I reached 1.5 Mile Emergency at about 6:45am.
Called my wife Cari, who had never received my messages, that’s another story. Called Michael to let him know I would be finishing in the next 30 minutes or so. He was surprised and excited!
The Final Stretch Up Bright Angel at the Grand Canyon
With less than a mile to go one of my climbing poles broke! Oh well. I didn’t need it. After packing it away I pushed the last few minutes.
This would be the only time I got anxious of where I was. Because now I was looking for a series of three tunnels.
Which would signal how close I was. After going through the last one, I began to run as best I could and looked up as Michael was yelling my name and encouraging me!
That was awesome! I rounded the last corner where the big grey house sits next to Bright Angel Lodge and picked up the pace as I wanted to finish strong, but more importantly with a big smile on my face!
Yes, my adventure was over. It was so amazing how everything worked out. God provided me a special 17-hour window for my dream to happen.
Blessed and thankful! One last crazy thing. Within five minutes of finishing. The wind had picked up and dark storm clouds started moving in.
Within an hour Michael and I would be in some heavy rain on our way back to Flagstaff! Blessed!
What I Learned
This was the 6th time I had gone below the rim at the Grand Canyon. It was my 4th complete Rim to Rim to Rim.
It was my first solo attempt. And it was the first time I had completed a R3 in the Summer. Taking that all in. Here are some takeaways.
1) Never underestimate the physical requirements necessary to do a rim to rim to rim.
2) I needed to be stronger through the hips for the South Kaibab Descent.
3) I needed to drink more because of the heat and humidity of the Box.
4) Be prepared and stay with your plan
5) To always respect the Canyon. Never challenge it. Embrace what you are given.
Rim to Rim to Rim Summary
Total Distance: 44.9 miles
Total Feet Climbed: 10,300
Total Calories: 1500 calories
Total Carbs: 150 grams
Total Time: 16 hours 50 minutes
Total Times Getting Lost: 1
Value of Experience: Priceless
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