Wings, and Horns, and Champs! Oh my!

Aubrey Myjer
Aug 27, 2017 · 4 min read

The simplicity, attention to detail, and casual cool that have brought Vancouver, Canada-based wings + horns and Reigning Champ into the menswear and athleisure limelight extends deeper than product silhouettes and fine heavy-weight fabrics. CYC Design Corporation, the parent company of the aforementioned industry shakers and brain child of Craig Atkinson was born out of a bi-national appreciation for Japanese attention to detail and rugged Canadian manufacturing. Atkinson, who has spent time in both countries, allows his products to do the talking; an approach that his served him quite well since CYC’s inception in 1996. Primarily existing as a manufacturer for companies such as Arc-teryx and Supreme, CYC eventually expanded, establishing wings + horns (2004) and Reigning Champ (2007), premium menswear and athletic companies, respectively. With this business development, the consortium of brands stands out as an interesting case study of textile and consumer brand vertical integration.

The manufacturing and design principles that lead to the rise of CYC’s notoriety as a manufacturer have continued to guide the company’s consumer face brands, cementing both wings + horns and Reigning Champ as beacons of simplistic aesthetic and unparalleled quality. Given the company’s infallible reputation and objectively awe-inspiring construction and design, we must consider whether the vertical integration of production and design processes has helped afford CYC the success that they’ve experienced.

Having spent a summer working in a product development role for a premium apparel company, I have seen how a more traditional textile and consumer brand relationship can cause its fair share of headaches. From design and production miscommunication to orchestrating the synthesis of a couple different manufacturers (fabrics, fixtures, packaging, etc.), meeting planned production deadlines is more of a rarity than a commonplace occurrence. Especially considering the positive relationships that my employer has with its mills and factories, I am led to believe that the obstacles that I witnessed are experienced ten-fold under lesser leadership.

Reigning Champ Full Zip Hoodie in Heather Grey
wing + horns SS ’18 Preview

With this I ask, is vertical integration the future of the textile and consumer brand relationship? In order to answer this question, we must examine common monkey wrenches in the textile and brand space and possible ways that vertical integration may help remedy these barriers. Next, we will counter the previous argument by examining potential pitfalls of a vertical model.

When designing, sourcing, and producing a garment, common thorns typically arise under the following areas: fabric sourcing, tech-pack design, pattern design, garment fit, and production quality assurance. Under a non-vertically integrated business model, companies undergo an exhausting amount of back-and-forths, both in the way of emails and product shipments, to ensure that exact specifications and expectations are met. By aligning a business vertically, designers, manufacturers, and product managers are able to meet face to face to discuss key garment details, thus facilitating an easier flow of information and hastening the delivery of samples. Through this change, there is a better chance that product quality standards are upheld and delivery dates are met.

Now, we must consider the flipside of the coin: what are the drawbacks to vertical integration? First, vertical integration can create an insular culture, limiting the amount of outside ideas permeate a brand’s product develop process. This can be especially dangerous in highly fluid, competitive spaces where brands are constantly iterating, improving, and pushing the boundaries of what was formerly thought to be possible. By having each stage of a product development process completed in-house, a company might fall victim to complacency and stagnant ideas where new concepts fail to surface. Second, vertically integrated brands are subject to a possible lack of specificity. In an Adam Smith-ion vain of thinking, non-vertically integrated brands are specialized and optimize their subset of a process. By attempting to co-opt each phase of the development cycle, a business might sacrifice excellence across any particular phase, being forced to settle for mediocrity.

Perhaps there is not a blanket business model for textile companies and instead we must segment brands by market and product premium. For example, vertically integrated businesses may be best suited for high-scale brands for users who expect goods with impeccable fit and construction while traditional business models are better suited for fast-fashion companies where specialization allows for increased iteration and creativity. Regardless, it will be interesting to see how CYC continues to grow given the success of their consumer-facing brands and how other companies in the industry respond to the model that Atkinson and team have established.

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