Ryan’s wine wisdom: Q&A at Cafe Vino

Austin Harvill
3 min readFeb 24, 2019

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I’ve spent some time introducing wine to Coloradans, then I waxed poetic about how wine culture is for this generation. Now, let’s look at what someone in the know… knows.

Well, turns out wine culture has been waiting for the casual, personal vibe I’ve been spouting on about. At least that’s what Ryan Meredith, Cafe Vino’s wine buyer and amateur sommelier, has told me.

I sat down with Ryan in his element at Cafe Vino during happy hour to talk a little about wine, the culture and the evolution of fermented grapes here in Colorado.

So Ryan, what got you into wine?
Well, I spent about a decade in Sonoma Valley [California] cutting my teeth, or I guess training my palette, before coming back to Colorado about 12 years ago and settling here at Cafe Vino.

Did you notice anything different about the wines here versus California?
Obviously, our soil is a lot of different. It’s pretty true to Colorado to say a grape grown in Colorado has a more “rugged” taste than that same grape grown in most of California. Of course this depends on the regions we’re comparing, but overall Colorado has this delicious mineral taste that makes it unique.

So the grapes seem different, but what about the people in the fields and the wineries?
This is a really exciting time to be in Colorado for wine. I hate to say it, but a decade ago Colorado was trying different fruit wines; it hadn’t found it’s place in “classic” wine. However, the vintners (wine makers) have found the grapes that are great for Colorado. For instance, a [Cabernet franc] from the Colterris winery practically screams Colorado, which is awesome.

Seems like everything about Colorado wine is different. Do the Coloradans that come to Cafe Vino treat wine differently than Cali or other places because of that?
Absolutely. Colorado is such a casual place, and that is definitely true for wine. You were talking about a more relaxed approach to wine earlier; well, that’s already the case! Coloradans’ welcoming attitude makes diving into wine, or just having the occasional bottle, easier than ever. There isn’t a hint of that snobby attitude that I think a lot of people expect.

Now I’m thirsty. Besides Cafe Vino, where can I find a good wine experience?
That’s a tough question! Like I said, Coloradans love local, so since we’re in Fort Collins you’d miss out if you didn’t head to the new Infinite Monkey Theorem tasting room. They embody this new, casual, fun approach to wine we’ve been talking about. Across Colorado there are tons of wineries and I haven’t found one I didn’t like.

Should I expect a hefty price tag from these wineries?
One hundred times, no! Wineries are going to have expensive bottles, sure, but what if I told you there are great alternative packaged wines available? Colterris has a line of canned wines that I really enjoy, and Kingman Estates has a boxed chardonnay that’s excellent. If you just want to drink something easy, lots of wineries have a table wine for cheap, but that doesn’t mean it’s not good. Ask a liquor store employee for a good, cheap wine and you will be surprised how much of a selection exists. Don’t be afraid to like affordable wine!

Before I order this happy hour glass of Brut, is there anything else you’d like to say?
I am proud of Colorado’s wine culture, and I’d like to say again that now is the time to get involved. If you have even the smallest interest in wine, come to Cafe Vino or go to your local liquor store and just start asking questions. I’m positive anyone who does that will be hooked like me!

Ryan and I continued talking about all the interesting wines in the area and even a few neat pairings (Italian Nebiolo goes great with buffalo wings, apparently) before he had to get to work sharing his wine picks with customers.

While I was drinking my Brut, one of my favorite varieties from my time in Italy, I got to thinking I should visit one of those wine bars. Now, where did I put that camera…

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