A Snapchat Story of Skardu, Pakistan
Far away, in a land called Baltistan, nested between the Karakorum and Himalayan mountains and cleaved cleanly in half by the Indus, there is a town called Skardu. About half a million people reside here in oases among the mountain peaks. To tourists, life in Skardu seems poised on the precipice. But native Skardonians, like my guide pictured below, hop from boulder to boulder with ease (in sandals!). Visitors must earn the gorgeous views that await, but believe me, they are well worth it.
Getting to Skardu is by no means a simple task. You have two options:
or
There’s a one-hour flight from Islamabad to Skardu. During the final 20 minutes, passengers get to experience flying through mountains. On a clear day, you might even spot K2. It’s terrifying and exhilarating all at once. Skardu has an altitude of about 8,000 feet. When you deplane, the sky feels unbelievably close.
A 30 minute drive along the Indus River will bring you to the Shangri-La Resort, Skardu’s most popular place to stay. Small cottages encompass the perimeter of Lower Kachura Lake. The mountains reflect perfectly. Breathtakingly. One feels a sense of serenity that is impossible to exaggerate.
The Sites
There’s a bit of risk involved to get your scenery fix in Skardu. When it comes to natural landmarks, everything’s in close proximity to one another. However, to get from one valley to the next, you have to travel up one mountain, and down another. The pathways are rather treacherous — it’s normal to encounter boulders or ditches every few feet. What’s more, there’s no such thing as a two-way road, so it’s critical to honk when driving around a bend, so as to alert other drivers. All this to say, a manual 4x4 and an experienced driver are mandatory.
The Indus River
The Indus cuts through Skardu, rushing northwest and collecting glacial water from the mountains, as it makes its way to the Arabian Sea. In August, water levels are relatively low. Silt and clay are usually more visible than the water itself. August is also an excellent time to pluck apricots or walnuts from trees. Best of all, mountain goats prance near the river beds.
Satpara Lake
Satpara Lake supplies most of Skardu’s water. With the recent completion of the Satpara Dam, the size of the lake has increased dramatically. In fact, a hotel once stood in the middle of the previously shallow lake, but due to the dam, it’s been completely overtaken. The top of the hotel remains visible in the lake.
Upper Kachura Lake
Upper Kachura Lake is by far my favorite. Its immensity and clear turquoise water are unparalleled. I’ll never forget the imagery of these gorgeous trees growing out of the lake, their reflections dancing in the water.
There’s a man with a bright orange boat who can take you for a spin.
Deosai National Park
The Deosai plains in Skardu are about 15,000 feet above sea level. Their height makes this plateau one of the highest in the world. It’s also home to Himalayan brown bears and many other endangered species. The plains are mostly deserted save for the occasional farmer. The grounds are covered with a rough red flower, which give the impression of something otherworldly. The altitude weighs heavy on the lungs, and if you reach upwards, I swear you could touch a cloud.
