A Trip through Andalucía
Below, I will take you through an amazing 7-day trip through Andalucía and show you the best of this region based on my experience with the experts who accompanied me on this trip. From places to visit, stay, and eat to the amazing history behind it all, this will be your ultimate guide to Andalucía.
The trip was hosted by YTP, in collaboration with MainlySpain.
Before we start the journey, let’s begin with an overview of Andalucía that shows why it’s such a popular destination and it belongs to your bucket list.
A unique location
Forming a natural passage between Europe and Africa and a meeting point between the Atlantic ocean and the Mediterranean, Andalusia, the old Gateway to the Americas, is a miniature tourist universe whose most distinctive feature is its great diversity. The region’s incredible variety of landscapes and geographical contrasts range from the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada to the warm campiñas in the valley of the Guadalquivir, Tabernas desert, and the lush medium height sierras. Structured geographically around the river Guadalquivir, which crosses the region from east to west, Andalusia comprises 8 provinces ( Almería, Cadiz, Cordoba, Granada, Huelva, Jaén, Malaga, and Seville) and is the second largest region in Spain — with a total area of 87,268km2 covering 17.3% of Spain. The region’s population — some seven million people — is evenly distributed throughout the capital cities, medium-sized towns, and small villages. Andalusia’s rural areas also boast picturesque white villages, in which time almost seems to have stood still, surrounded by breathtaking nature.
Transport network
A magnificent transport network provides easy access to the region’s tourist attractions. Its modern and comprehensive road network aside, the AVE (the High Speed Train) is the pinnacle of the Spanish railway system. It allows the journey between Madrid and Seville to come down to just under two and a half hours. The introduction of AVE has also improved communication between Madrid and Malaga. Large modern airports, such as those in Malaga, Seville, Jerez, Almería, and Granada offer flights to the main Andalusian and Spanish cities, to Europe and the rest of the world. The ports on both the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts complete this vast transport network. Many are popular destinations for cruise liners but they also offer regular connections to both North Africa and the Canary Islands.
Monuments and cultural heritage
Throughout its thousands of years of history Andalusia has accumulated an impressive cultural and and historic heritage. Thanks to the mild climate, fertile soil, and rich mineral resources, the region has been continually inhabited since Prehistoric times times. The Tartessians, Phoenicians, Iberians and Carthaginians being the first people who settled there. 206 BC, the city of Gadir (Cadiz), the last stronghold of Carthaginian Iberia, surrendered to the Roman army. This was the beginning of Romanisation of Andalusia, where Augustus established an imperial province known as Beatica. The flourishing Roman period which left its imprint in cities like Itálica, in Santiponce (Seville), was followed by Visigoths and Byzantines, and then the Muslims who invaded the peninsula in the year 711. The Andalusi culture, the root of many Andalusian customs, was responsible for some of the most impressive Andalusian monuments, many of which have been declared World Heritage Sites: Mosque-Cathedral and its historic center of Cordoba; El Alhambra, Generalife Gardens and Albaicín of Granada; and Giralda tower, Alcázar, and General Archives of the Indies in Seville, and the renaissance towns of Úbeda and Baeza.
Natural beauty
Stretching for almost 900 kilometers, the region’s coastlines dotted with towns and beaches. The Mediterranean section (Alboran Sea) includes the Costa de Almería, the Granadan Costa Tropical, and Malaga’s Costa del Sol, whereas the Costa de la Luz between Cadiz and Huelva is on the Atlantic. There are fine golden beaches and concealed coves with warm crystalline waters and exceptional underwater scenery. The Doñana National Park, declared a World Heritage site in 1994, is the largest nature reserve in Europe and one of the natural jewels of Andalusia.
The journey begins!
Ready for the ride? Here’s the itinerary:
Day1-Málaga
Málaga is the capital of Costa Del Sol. Its beaches are washed by the mediterranean sea and behind the city the rounded Montes or mountains of Málaga overlook the town. Because of its proximity to water and pleasant climate, it has enjoyed a lively growth. The Puerto or port has been a major hub of commerce and trade, and over the years it has drawn the most prominent Mediterranean cultures to its soil. I spent two days at the “city of paradise” and I’d already like to go back and explore more of it. Here are some of the highlights that made my stay so memorable!
Start the day with a nice stroll to the beach! The city is very walkable and the Calle or streets are charming, so put on the flip flops and your suits ans sunscreen and only a 10 mins walk from the Centre of the city, you’ll be greeted with this:
After lounging on the beach and getting your vitamin D in, I mozied on over back to the city Centre for some mid-afternoon Tapas. Options abound as every street corner is dotted with nice bars and taverns each serving unique savory food. You can go with fresh Anchovies and sardines or try the pescaîto fritto (small fried fish) which is one of the most delicious Andalusian cuisines. I, however, went straight with fresh oysters, my favorite snack, and I gotta admit, I’ve never had oysters as big, succulent and fresh as this place called Ostreria La Medusa. It’s a bit pricey, but the quality is uncompromised (Expect to pay about $4–6 per piece depending on the species). And let’s face it, you’re not on vacation every day, so if you can, splurge a bit and indulge yourself in the best Oyster ever hands down.
As I made my stroll back to the hotel, I couldn’t help but notice the grandiose and sophistication of the Malaga Cathedral. It is the most notable monument of the city. It was built over the ancient mosque that stood there during the eight centuries of Moorish reign.
The night is drawing in, shoppers who swarm the Calle Larios during the day are out at the bars and restaurants around the city centre.
It’s time to pick a place to eat. I’m feeling hungry (after all Oysters aren’t that filling). Thankfully, my host has planned everything and knows just the place. So, if you find yourself in Malaga and are looking for a dinner feast with no compromise, look no further than El Palmeral Restaurante. The place offers incredible fresh seafood, great service, and a relaxing ambiance.
After a nice meal, it’s time to go back to the hotel and rest to get ready for the next day.
Day 2-Málaga
Get ready for a walking tour of the city. Malaga is fairly small and most attractions are close to each other so you can get a full experience on foot and appreciate all the ancient and modern architecture juxtaposed next to each other. The old part of Malaga is is crammed with churches in renaissance and Mudejar style as well as manor houses. There are charming places like passage Chinitas, surrounded by centenary taverns and plazas full of colors like Plaza de la Constitución or la plaza de la Marina. The archeological museum, housed in the Moorish palace of the Alcazaba, attracts interest because it reveals the most remote past of Malaga.
We start the day off with a browse through the wholesale market. Fresh is the name that comes to mind as you pass by the colorful fruits, vegetable and meat stands. Every morning the fishermen haul their catch to shore and sell it to the merchants which display it in colorful arrays of yummy goodness for you to choose from. If you’re hungry, grab some food first before you look at this picture!
If you like Churro’s you can’t miss this place, serving the best chocolate churros in town for over 75 years.
Next stop is El Teatro Romano, the oldest monument in Malaga city at the base of the famous Alcazaba fortress. It is one of the only remaining Roman ruins in Andalucía after centuries of warfare and construction. You can stop by the adjoining visitor center (Centre de Interpretacion) to learn about the history of the site.
A must-see in Malaga is Picasso’s birth home (Casa Natal de Picasso), the city’s son. You see a wonderful plaza garden in front of his house with lots of Jasmine trees and a bronze life-size statue of Picasso sitting on a bench outside his house forever. We took a chance to get another group picture and memorialize our time spent with the man himself.
The night is drawing in and the view of Alcazaba is captivating.
Tonight’s dinner is planned at Bodega de El Pimpi, a long-time local’s favorite. Needless to say we were greeted by lots of tapas, Andalusian-style. My advice, try everything and surprise yourself.
Places to stay in Malaga:
Le Petit Palace
Located at the center of Malaga right next to Calle Larios (famous shopping street) is the charming Le Petit Palace Hotel. You can even get unique views of the Malaga Cathedral from some rooms. It is a perfect stay for trips as couples or with friends if you value convenience, urban experience, and luxury. They also offer free Wifi with laptop in the rooms.
Paradores de Gibralfaro
If you’re after pure luxury and also seek higher grounds, look for Hotel Paradores de Malaga Gibralfaro. Set atop Mount Gibralfaro opposite the Alcazaba (Citadel), with views of the bay and city of Malaga from a unique perspective. The common areas, guest rooms and rooftop swimming pool offer beautiful views of the town and sea.
Day 3-Malaga to Sevilla
It’s time to bid farewell to the wonderful city of Malaga and get on the road towards Sevilla. The landscape has an Andalucian aura to it that’s unlike other roadtrips. It’s as if the mountains are talking to you. I got lucky that I was able to capture a beautiful sunset as it happened.
We took our time to stop by an ecological olive tree farm on the way. Vega Olive farm is one of handful of farms in Andalucia region that follow 100% sustainable farming practices. Their Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil is a family tradition that is based on quality. The olive trees are grown on an organic farm, and the variety is Manzanilla. This variety produces the finest olives which are usually used for selling in olive format, not for making oil, because its production is very expensive. So you know the oil is of the finest quality with balanced texture, rich in herbaceous notes, and enduring pleasant taste that lingers on the palette.
We make another pit stop in Hacienda Los Angeles located 14km from the center of Sevilla to take a tour of this exquisite rural architecture with rich historical significance. The origin of the hacienda San Francisco Javier Angels dates back to the thirteenth century. Apparently, King Ferdinand III established his camp in this place known as the Angels Old Orchard, to undertake the conquest of Seville that ended in 1248 . Legend has it that the Holy King discovered a virgin here who protected him in his company. For centuries and until recently it was dedicated to the production of olive oil bound for the Spanish colonies. Now it’s been converted to a hotel venue available for reservation to hold special corporate events or wedding ceremonies. Here are some pictures from the site:
Day 4-Sevilla
Sevilla is the capital of Andalusia, and the largest province in the Autonomous Region. The Guadalquivir river –where the river is navigable to the sea– flows between the foothills of the Sierra Morena to the north and the Sierra Sur mountains in the south, irrigating a rich and fertile valley. The towns and cities on the shores of the river are living testimony to its historic and cultural past. Few cities in the world can boast like the local people from Seville do of this incomparable mixture of cultures that make up the city: churches, palaces, towers, museums, city walls, plazas and streets make up an offer that never fails to amaze the visitors.
Seville, the emblematic city of universal renown, has been Arab, Jewish andRoman, and its river and its river port have served as a privileged destination for trade with the West Indies. After the discovery of America in 1492 Seville became the main port for trade with the New World, this resulted in several centuries of grandeur for the city. However, with regards to the economy, trade with America progressively moved to the port of Cádiz.
Seville, the capital of Andalucía, is the fourth city in Spain with regard to the number of inhabitants with over 700K people in its metropolitan area and without a doubt can lay claim to be the artistic, cultural, financial, economic and social centre of south of Spain.
Maria Luisa Park
One of the landmarks in Seville that you don’t wanna miss is the Parque Maria Luisa. It’s surrounded by palm and orange trees, elm and mediterranean pine, covered with flower beds and dotted with hidden bowers, ponds, and pavilions. This is one of the loveliest parks in Europe. The park’s centerpiece is the vast Plaza de España by Expo 29 architect Anibal Gonzalez.
Seville Cathedral
Seville’s cathedral occupies the site of a prominent mosque in 12th century. Later, christian architects added the extra dimension of height. Its central nave rises to an awesome 42 meters and even side chapels seem tall enough to contain an ordinary church. By cubic volume measurements, Seville’s cathedral is more spacious than Saint Paul’s in London and Saint Peter’s in Rome, making it the largest church in the world. Sheer size and grandeur are, inevitably, the chief characteristics of the cathedral, but as you grow used to the gloom, two other qualities stand out with equal force — the rhythmic balance and interplay between the parts, and an impressive overall simplicity and restraint in decoration.
The Alcazar
When visiting the Alcazar, it’s easy to be fooled into thinking this is a Moorish palace, some of the rooms and courtyards seem to come straight from the Alhambra. Most of them were actually built by the Moorish workmen for king Pedro and his wife Maria de Padilla who lived in and ruled from the Alcazar. Alcazar is vast, so ensure to leave yourself plenty of time to wander all around the palatial grounds.
Museo Del Baile Flamenco
Flamenco is a passionate and seductive art form, a mysterious culture that has been burning in Andalucia for nearly 500 years, and today it has thousands of aficionado’s worldwide. So, why not discover the essence of it at Spain’s most luxurious flamenco venue? El Palacio Andaluz hosts spectacular live shows with award winning performers. You’ll see Andalusian grace first hand and you can even take part in the act yourself.
Places to stay in Sevilla:
Hotel Alfonso XIII
If you seek style, sophistication, and pure luxury look no further. Since its opening in 1929, Hotel Alfonso XIII has been considered to be one of the most prestigious hotels in Spain and worldwide. It is located at the centre of Sevilla in the historic and vibrant neighborhood of Santa Cruz only minutes away from the Cathedral and Alcazar.
From the moment you step through the doors at Alfonso, a world of luxury and palatial decor greets you. I have put some pictures I took plus some from their website, pretty close I’d say.
Gran Hotel Meliá Colón
Another great option is Gran Meliá Colon if you’re after a more modern contemporary accommodation with amenities abound. It offers a fully equipped Wellness centre with outdoor whirlpool and sun terrace and unique panoramic city views.
One of the unique aspects of Melia colon is that its floors and rooms are covered with reproductions of art by the Spanish masters. Majestic red and golden tones merge with carefully chosen, modern furniture with pieces by designers such as Philippe Starck, Marcel Wanders and Edra.
With an aesthetic of rich contrasts, Gran Meliá Colón combines intelligent historical features with contemporary touches to create a warm and elegant environment. It offers a combination of design, style, and red-level service.
Day 5-Cordoba
Different cultures have marked the city of Cordoba that was the Roman and Moorish capital city, the center of Western Europe. The arrival of the Moors to Spain in 711 made Cordoba the headquarters of the of the Emirate founded by Ommiad leader Abd al-Rahman the first. His descendants made Moorish Cordoba the richest and most sumptuous city in the known world so much so that it was named the capital of al-Andalus.
However, in the upcoming decades, Cordoba became the object of a bloody civil war between Moorish factions and its immense power was relegated to a modest and weakened Moorish kingdom. Finally, in 1236, the Christian army led by the king of Castile, Fernando the third the Saint, took Cordoba and the mosque, the most emblematic monument of the Spanish-Moslem culture, was consecrated as a Christian temple.
The following centuries saw the great metropolis develop in keeping with the aesthetics dictated by the Christians. Today, Cordoba is a modern city, the seat of powerful university and a centre of communication between the higher and lower parts of Andalucía.
The Mosque (Mezquita) is Cordoba’s most prominent monument. The most striking thing about it is that, incongruously, it contains a Christian church (Cordoba’s Cathedral) in the centre. After Cordoba was conquered by the Christians at the beginning of the sixteenth century, the city council decided to build a cathedral in the centre of the mosque which currently stands in the middle of an impressive forest of Moorish arches.
I was lucky to visit this great city in May, when it shines more than at any other time of the year. The crosses are made of brightly colored flowers in the most picturesque plazas, and avenues of the city. Cordoba’s main celebration — Festival of Patios —takes places in the middle of May. Windows and balconies make the city a showcase of color, atmosphere and lovely aromas.
The Cordoba fair is held in honor of our Lady of Health Neustra Señora de la Salud. It takes place the last week of May on the fairground in el Arenal. During the fair top matadors head the program of bullfights in los Califas bullring.
There is a lot of art and tradition in the gastronomy of Cordoba. The weight of history and tradition is in the dishes that have been passed down from the Moorish and Jewish past, they are put on the table today with with innovating touches and a fusion of tastes. There are dishes that have Cordoba’s own special mark like Salmorejo (a kind of thick gazpacho), flamenquín (rolled meat, cheese and ham deep fried)made wit hserrano ham, oxtail (from fighting bulls), lamb in honey sauce or perfumed artichokes with a touch of Montilla wine. With regards to dessert, there is wide legacy the Spanish Moors left. The list of recipes also include substantial dishes of game, hams, and Iberian pork that come from the valley of Los Pedroches. We stopped at Los Patios de la Marquesa restaurant just meters from the Mezquita. It is a gastronomic and cultural space located in the House of Manríquez and offers a wide array of options through its seafood, steak house, wine shop, and Arabic restaurant.
In Cordoba, the typical custom in Andalucía of of going for a few tapas has gained fame and popularity. There are bars around the plaza de La Corredera where there are bit-sized dishes that summarize perfectly the exquisite Mediterranean cuisine.
Day 6-Granada
Granada, celebrate and mythical city, is the result of both Western and Oriental civilizations, here they found a meeting place in a privileged location. The capital of the ancient Moorish kingdom at the feet of the Sierra Nevada, the river Genil and the river Darro cross the city separating the two hills of the Alhambra and the Albaicín suburb later joining in the south. The old city still has an urban ambiance, dominated by the Alhambra palace that establishes relationships that go further than the purely visual.
The secret Granada is an itinerary through the famous Albaicín quarter and into the heart of the gypsy quarter of Sacromonte. The narrow and steep streets take us to the center of this ancient Moorish quarter of the city just minutes from the Plaza Nuevs. In the plaza de San Miguel Bajo, you can have a rest and a couple of tapas with a glass of wine before visiting the convent of Santa Isabel la Real. The plaza de San Nicolas is a must stop because you can enjoy of the best views of the Alhambraand Sierra Nevada from the famous balcony.
Alhambra
In 711 the Moors invaded the Iberian peninsula and the first chronicles praised the land of granada comparing them with Damascus. The new Moorish city was inhabited by a large Jewish community, that guaranteed its safety while the Moorish legions marched north. After the battle of Navas de Tolosa in 1212 the king al-Hamar de Arjona peacefully handed over the castle of Jaén and declared himself a subject of King Fernando the third under the condition that the King of Castile allowed him to found a new Kingdom in Granada. This was the beginning of the history of Moorish Granada. Al-Hamar chose the Sabika hill as the site to build his new palace the he called the Alhambra.
The Alhambra is one of the most fascinating monumental complexes in the world. In 1238, the Andalusi Sultan Muhammad the first ordered the first stones to be laid on the red hill of Sabika. The earth is a darkish red color, the peasants from the valley or vega of Granada called it al-kalat or al-Hamrá (the castle built of red earth) and this is how the Alhambra got its name. The successors took even more care to consolidate the artistic and environmental ennoblement of the red Castle, where nature and architecture exist side by side in a serene and sacred harmony. The erudite say that there is no other monument where architecture and water produce such symphony, like in the Patio de Los Leones, where the sound of the water is subtly integrated in the robust architecture.
The Moors stayed in Alhambra for over two hundred years. The arrival of King Fernando and Queen Isabella to the last Moorish bastion on the Iberian peninsula involved a radical change to the model of the city. The Mosques, at this time converted to Christian churches, were the object of beautiful remodelling plans carried out by Mudejar craftsmen.
The most emblematic gardens in Granada are the ones in Alhambra and Generalife, together they have been named to be a World Heritage Site the same as the nearby Albaicín suburb. The Alhambra has patios that are traditionally Islamic like the Machuka and Arrayanes patios, the latter is a typical patio with a central ornamental pond surrounded by hedging.
The patio of the lions, at present without ornamental vegetation, originally has sunken flowerbeds.
In the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries the Alhambra was a palace, citadel, and a fortress. The residence of Moorish Sultans, high dignitaries and elite soldiers. The monument is divided into four different quarters: the palaces or Alcazar, the fortress area or Alcazaba, the citadel or Medina, and the market garden area or Generalife, all situated in a surrounding area of forests, gardens and orchards. The triple character helps explain many distinctive features of the monument. It also integrates the Renaissance palace of Carlos the fifth, which houses the Alhambra museum.
Gastronomy
Earth, cultivated land, valley, and sea, all these elements have inspired Granada with regard to its varied gastronomy, passed down from the Moorish period. Many of the dishes are prepared everyday in suburbs like the Albaicín and Sacromonte with a special appeal to that culture. The garlic soup and San Antón stews have well earned fame as well as the casseroles made with dried broad beans, lard and black pudding from the mountains. The Sacromonte omelettes, made with vegetables and meat, are one of the most famous dishes by locals. The cold gazpacho soup, snails, or baby broad beans and serrano mountain ham are other options that served daily in restaurants in the city. The remoión salad made with cod and oranges, poor man’s potatoes crowned with a fried egg and fried breadcrumbs mixed with pork products are other choices not to be missed.
The Granada cuisine varies considerably depending on the district. On the Costa Tropical, fish and exotic fruit are the main ingredients of most dishes. There’s no shortage of grilled fish, rice and shellfish, pickled blue fish, dried octopus, or sardines grilled over open fire. In Motril it is traditional to eat ajo cabañil, a kid stew cooked very slowly with a special sauce. However, if the Costa Tropical is famous for one thing, it is the exotic fruit where mango, papaya, avocado, pear, or custard apple are something more than a dessert. The emblematic pomegranate, a tree that is present in the Spanish Carmen villas and gardens, is another delicious fruit in the province.
That’s it folks. Now it’s your turn. Have you been to Andalucía before? What have been the highlights of your trip? Did my trip diary inspire you to travel to Andalucía. Tell me in the comments below.
Vive Andalucía!
-Babak
