The Rhône Valley: A River of Two Halves
The wines of the Rhône Valley are all too often overshadowed in the world media by its cousins in Burgundy and Bordeaux. This is unfortunate because this region is known for producing some of the world’s most primordial wines, wines that seem to want to leap from the glass and eat the well paired dish from your plate.
Alongside these untamed, spicy, dark reds, the Rhône Valley offers up some stunning white wines, France’s sole rosé-only AOP, and a selection of sweet wines. So what makes one of the oldest wine regions in France distinct? And how is it divided up to help people discover the wines that suit their palate best?
The Rhône River: An Intrinsic Connection
The Rhône River begins its journey in the Swiss Alps and carves a path westward. At the town of Lyon, it takes a decisive left turn and drives south until it spills out into the Mediterranean Sea. It is along this final stretch of the Rhône River that the Rhône Valley region exists.
This river is the only tangible connection between Northern Rhône and Southern Rhône — which are separated by a 30 miles gap — whose climates and wines are decisively different. This is why the terroir, climate, and geography of each of these two halves will be discussed separately. There are 27 grape varietals allowed in total, but even their use is permitted by each specific appellation not the region as a whole.
Le Mistral
Besides the river, the two halves of the Rhône Valley wine growing region do share one other aspect of their climate and that is Le Mistral, which translates to “The Master”. Le Mistral is a particularly savage wind that begins in the Swiss Alps and carves its way through the air above the Rhône River, gathering speed along the way before finally unleashing its fury on the Rhône Valley, bringing with it both blessings and curses that differ for both the northern and southern halves of the Rhône Valley. While most prominent and potent during the winter months, it is known to rear its head during the growing season too.
The Appellations of the Rhône Valley
The Rhône appellation system is, thankfully, quite simple. It has three tiers:
Côtes-du-Rhône AOP
The largest AOP, making reds and whites from across the region, but most of the wine labeled as such is from the Southern Rhône. Reds and rosés are made from GSM, Cinsaut, and maybe even some white grapes (up to 20% Viognier is permitted in blends). White wines are made from Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, and Viognier.
Côtes-du-Rhône Villages AOP
A step up from the Côtes-du-Rhône AOP in terms of quality, using all the same grapes. In total, there are 95 villages that use this appellation. However, only 22 are considered superior enough to append their name to the appellation, e.g., Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. Some of these villages may only use the AOP for red wine, some for red and rosé, and some for red, white, and rosé. This AOP has a lower permitted yield than the Côtes-du-Rhône AOP.
Côte-du-Rhône Crus
These are simply known as “The Crus” and are a special club of 17 crus that don’t need to mention Côte du Rhône on their label. The Northern Rhône is made up entirely of Crus.
The Northern Rhône Valley
While considered half of the region, it is only so by differences of geography and climate, for by area, the Northern Rhône (Rhône septentrionale in French) is much smaller than its southern counterpart — and only produces ~5% of the total wine to be labeled Rhône Valley. That being said, this region is 50 miles long the wine coming from it is rarer, more prestigious, and more expensive than wine from the Southern Rhône, constituting a majority of the region’s fine wine.
The Grapes of Northern Rhône
Here in the Northern Rhône, Syrah is king, and although it is sometimes blended with a bit of white, it dominates as a single varietal wine — somewhat of a rarity in France, a country full of blends. Syrah makes gamey, meaty red wines here with excellent ageability, and the distinct notes of white pepper indicate that you have a glass containing a red from the Northern Rhône. The blending of white into red, be it in very small quantities, increases a wine’s aromatic complexity, softens the harsh tannins, and acts as a natural chaptalization.
Although reds dominate, and Syrah is the only red grape permitted here, some white wines are made, with Viognier (an indigenous grape) being used for single varietal wines, and blended whites produced from Marsanne and Roussanne. Marsanne is the dominant varietal in these blends, with Roussanne added in minor quantities to bring finesse and exotic aromas to the final wine.
The Climate and Terroir of The Northern Rhône
The vineyards of the Northern Rhône run on narrow bands on either side of the river, all of which, except for Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage, are located on the river’s western bank. Many of these vineyards are found on the steep hillsides that overlook the river — so steep that terraces and stone walls have been built over the centuries to hold the vines and vineyards in place. This makes these vineyards difficult to work, hindering the amount of wine that it is possible to produce here.
The soil here is shallow granite and slate (Schist), and soil erosion is a real threat (hence the terraces and walls). So much so is erosion a threat that when winter rains wash the soil down the slopes, the winemakers haul it back up onto the slopes for their vines.
There is a continental climate here in the Northern Rhône, with cold, wet winters and hot summers. Fog comes through in late spring and early autumn, which means that a southern orientation is critical to the vines and grapes receiving enough sunlight and heat to accomplish grape ripening. Fortunately, the river acts as a climate moderating mirror, reflecting the sun’s heat up to the slopes and helping with ripening.
The granite soil offers excellent drainage, and it also holds heat, helping the vines when Le Mistral comes barreling through the valley. Here Le Mistral helps to prevent mildew and other molds, but the vines have to be staked to the ground to protect them from these winds and the aforementioned erosion.
Wine Production in Northern Rhône
Stems are commonly included in the fermentation of red wines from the Northern Rhône, and some are even co-fermented with white grapes — for others, the white is blended in later.
Because of the prestige of the wines produced in the Northern Rhône, both small and large producers make their own wines, with some negociants and cooperatives also operating in the region.
Both white and red wines can be fermented in stainless steel or oak, with the oak containers used being the larger foudres (massive oak barrels varying in sizes up to 30,000l). Aging traditionally takes place in older oak vessels, although the use of new and smaller oak barrels is becoming a little more commonplace. Wines might be aged in their barrels for up to 3 years.
The Districts and Sub-Districts of Northern Rhône
Each of the districts of the Northern Rhône is its own AOP. These are listed below, along with their permitted grape varietals and any particular points to note about these AOP. From north to south these are:
Côte-Rôtie AOP
Red wine only, with a maximum 20% Viognier.
Côte-Rôtie has some of the steepest slopes in the region, and many are south-facing, which protects them from the northerly winds. There’re two famous slopes in Côte-Rôtie, Côte Brunes (brunette) and Côte Blonde (Blonde), and these will be identified on the label. Côte Brunes’ soil has a high clay content, is rich in iornstone, and produces more tannic, powerful wines. Côte Blondes has more granite and a higher percentage of limestone and produces more elegant and racy wines.
Producers in Côte-Rôtie typically make blends from different vineyards to increase the complexity of their wines, but single vineyard wines from standout vineyards are made and labeled with the name of the vineyard. Wines from Côte-Rôtie can age for 10+ years.
Château Grillet AOP
White wine only, Viognier.
At 8.6 acres, this is one of France’s smallest appellations. It sits in the middle of Condrieu and has a single owner — so, therefore, it is a monopole. This and the below Condrieu produce some of the world’s most expensive and renown white wines.
Condrieu AOP
White wine only, Viognier.
Saint-Joseph AOP
Red wine with a maximum of 10% Marsanne and/or Roussanne.
White wines from Marsanne and Roussanne.
Hermitage AOP
Red wine with a maximum of 10% Marsanne and Roussanne.
White wines from Marsanne and Roussanne.
Hermitage is the only site, along with Crozes-Hermitage, on the river’s east bank. Hermitage is the prestigious hill surrounded by the area of Crozes-Hermitage. It is a hill of granite, with spots of gravel, flint, and limestone, and the vines are mainly planted on its southern slope. Few producers here add white grapes to their blends, and white production is rare.
Crozes-Hermitage AOP
Red wine with a maximum of 15% Marsanne and Roussanne.
White wines from Marsanne and Roussanne.
Cornas AOP
Red wine only, not blended with white.
Cornas is Celtic for “burnt”, and the wines from here can be wildly untamed and leathery.
Saint-Péray AOP
White and sparkling wines from Marsanne and Roussanne.
The Southern Rhône
The Southern Rhône — Rhône méridionale in French — is the larger more well-known part of the Rhône Valley wine growing region. It sits around 30 miles south of its northern partner, but things are a little bit different here.
Geographically this region is very different, as are the climate and the effects of Le Mistral. The grape varietals permitted in the appellations here are also different, as is some of the way wine is made. Red wine makes up 90% of production, and the region produces reds, white, rosé, sparkling, and even sweet wines.
The Climate and Terroir of Southern Rhône
The Southern Rhône is much flatter than its northern counterpart and is made up of plain-like scrublands with broader lowlands that descend toward the Mediterranean. Many vines are planted on this flatter valley floor. Many parts feature riverbed soils, particularly alluvial clay, interjected with patches of sandy limestone and gravel. In some places, this soil is covered with a deposit of riverbed-esque, large, smooth rocks — ranging from pebbles to head-sized stones — which help to retain heat to radiate at night, while also improving the water retention qualities of the soil shaded beneath.
The mediterranean climate of the region is hot and dry, and the effect of the hot summers on the grapes are moderated by significant diurnal temperature swings. The river provides a temperature moderator for those vineyards lucky enough to be within reach of its influence, and Le Mistral is especially powerful here — much stronger than in the North. Le Mistral blows cold, and both cools and drys the region. The cooling helps during the growing season, cooling the grapes and helping them retain their acidity, and, at harvest, Le Mistral ensures the grapes are free of humidity and mold. It also causes evaporation which concentrates the grape’s juices.
Le Mistral can, however, be so strong that it rips vines out of the ground! So, to protect the vines and their precious hanging cargo, the vines are often pruned low to the ground in a manner called bush or goblelet vine training.
The Grapes and Vinification Techniques of Southern Rhône
Besides the fact that they’re largely made from a wholly different group of grape varietals, the wines of the Southern Rhône are predominantly blends. Grenache is the most popular grape varietal, used in rosé and red wine production. Red wines, much like in the North, dominate, making up ~90% of total production.
GSM — Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre — is the signature blend from the Southern Rhône, but Cinsaut is also a popular grape for use in red blends. Rosé wines can be, and are, made from a combination of red and white grapes, and the principal white grapes used in the Southern Rhône are Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, and Marsanne.
The majority of wine here is made by cooperatives and negociants, making ⅔ or more of the wine, and this region produces the vast majority of wine labeled with the Côtes-du-Rhône appellation — even though these wines can be made with grapes from both the North and South.
No chaptalization is allowed in the Southern Rhône, and the use of oak depends on the area and producer. As in the Northern Rhône, large oak casks are preferred to barrique-style barrels. Finally, carbonic maceration is employed here by some producers, typically for Côtes-du-Rhône labeled wine, which also employ concrete for aging and big, open vats for fermentation. Concrete aging is preferred to barrel aging because of Grenache’s tendency to oxidize quickly.
The Appellations of Southern Rhône
Unlike the North, where all districts are their own appellations, the Southern Rhône consists of large swaths of land that fall under the two more generic appellations mentioned above, Côte du Rhône and Côtes-du-Rhone-Villages. below are the Cru AOPs in the Southern Rhône.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOP
The most famous of the Southern Rhône’s single village AOPs, producing red wines from GSM and Cinsaut, and white wines from Grenache Blanc, Clairette, and Bourboulenc. You’re not allowed to make rosé here. There are exceptionally low yield limits in this region, some of the lowest in France, and it’s soil is covered in the aforementioned river rocks and pebbles, which radiate stored heat throughout the night to speed up ripening and protect the soil and help it hold its water.
The region gets its name, literally “The Pope’s New Castle”, from the influence that the papacy had on it, its viticuture and vinicultural practices, and its popularity when they moved to nearby Avignon in the early 14th Century. Probably most importantly, the wines here were drunk at the papal court in Avignon. In 1954, due to a sighting in the same year, the municipality of Châteauneuf-du-Pape banned UFOs from flying over or landing on their territory.
Finally, a crossed keys emblem is embossed on all the bottles from Châteauneuf-du-Pape and is a legally protected mark.
Gigondas AOP
Producing Grenache-based red from GSM and Cinsaut; >80% of the wine must be Grenache. Rosé is also produced here from the same grapes but makes up less than 1% of production.
Vacqueyras AOP
Producing reds from GSM and Cinsaut, with a mandated 50% Grenache minimum. Rosés are produced from the same selection of grapes, and a small number of whites are also made from Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc.
Tavel AOP
France’s only rosé only AOP, with wines that feature rugged and spicy berry flavors. Red and white grapes are crushed together to make these wines, but no one varietal can make up more than 60% of the blend, and, rare for a rose, these wines can mature for a few years. The grapes used are principally GSM, Cinsaut, Clairette, and Bourboulenc.
Rasteau AOP
An AOP for still red wine, but better known for its red fortified wines, VDN (Vin doux Naturel). These are rosé and amber in color as they are left to maderize (oxidize) as they mature. These are mainly produced from Grenache Noir and labeled Rancio.
Beaumes-de-Venise AOP
Beaumes-de-Venise is an AOP for still red wine that is better known as the home of the sweet fortified wine, also a VDN, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. This is a sweet fortified white from the Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains grape.
Other AOPs
The following are other villages or areas of the Southern Rhône Valley that have their own AOPs.
- Cairanne
- Lirac
- Vinsobres
- Côtes du Lubéron
- Costières de Nîmes
- Côtes du Vivarais
VDN or VDL?
The syllabus for the Introductory Sommeliers Course states that students need to know about VDN and VDL production — Vin doux Naturel and Vin de Liqueur respectively. In both wines neutral grape spirit is added to the wines to stop fermentation early.
For VDNs, this happens during fermentation, in a process called mutage.
For VDLs the spirit is added prior to fermentation, which means that the final product tends to be more spirit forward and lacks the aromas and flavors of the secondary products of fermentation.
A Tale of Two Halves
The Rhône Valley wine region is split into two separate sections that offer distinctly difference wine experiences for both the palate and the wallet. Expensive wines — looking at you Châteauneuf-du-Pape — can be found in the more mass-producing, blend-focused southern half of the region, whereas bargains can,rarely, be found in the northern half, where the majority of the region’s most prestigious red and white wine is produced.
It is, however, a regular feature on wine shelve around the world, and, seeing as summer is coming in in the northern hemisphere, there’s no better time to try a glass of Rhône red with a good bit of BBQ than right now!
Principle Sources
Julyan, B. (2020). Sales and Serviec for the Wine Professional, 5th Edition. Shanghai Jiao Tong University Press
MacNeil, K. (2015) The Wine Bible, Revised 2nd Edition. Workman Publishing
Monosoff, M. (2018) Introductory Sommelier Course 2018 Workbook.
Robinson, J. (2015) The Oxford Companion to Wine, 4th Edition. Oxford University Press
Beavers, K. (Host). (2021, Apr 21th). Rhone (S.2 E.13) [Audio Podcast Episode]. In Wine 101. Vinepair Podcast Network. https://vinepair.com/articles/wine-101-rhone/
