Hand Stitching 2. Needling

BAEL LEATHER SCHOOL
Sep 2, 2018 · 6 min read

Now, I will sew with hand with griffed hole.

Look at the needle first.

Unlike the ordinary needle, the tip is not sharp.

Since we made a hole with griff, it shouldn’t be sharp. And if it is too sharp, it can pierce the leather, so the tip is blunt.

If you need to sew while making a hole, you can stitch while making a hole with diamond-shaped awl. In the production of saddlery goods that uses the thick leather, this diamond-shaped awl is used.

In case of thick leather, you have to stitch while making a hole with diamond-shaped awl.

And two needles are needed.

This point is also different from normal stitching.

Two needles are attached to both ends of the thread, and the two threads cross each other with one hole.

When sewing is done this way, the tensile force of thread becomes stronger with twisted thread and it is not torn easily. Even if it is cut in the middle, the stitching will have less impact on next stitch, making stitching stronger overall.

Cut the thread about 3~4 times longer than you will sew.

This is because the threads continue to cross in the hole and use as much of the threads.

First, put the thread on the needle hole and thread the needle 2 or 3 times like the photo.

Then pull the end of thread toward the needle hole.

You can sweep the thread toward the needle hole; it can be threaded between the threads as shown in the photo.

It may be a bit difficult to explain in the photo, so I suggest you actually do it.

Since the thread and needle are prepared, let’s just do hand sewing now.

1. Hand sewing without pony

2. Hand sewing using pony

Pony is a device that can hold leather on both sides as shown in the photo.

It allows us to free from both hands when saddle stitching.

Sewing with this pony is a common saddle stitching.

And I will tell you about sewing without pony.

This is because that there may be a case where it is difficult to use pony.

Actually, wood placed on both side of pony should support the leather in the middle. But if it is difficult to support due to the structure of bag or the size of part, or if it is attached to the body or it has three-dimensional shape like the patch part of D-ring, it is quite difficult to use pony. In this case, it’s better to do hand sewing without pony.

If a separate stiffener is inserted inside of watch band, it would be better to do hand sewing.

Pony is easy to use on relatively flat parts and it allows us free from both hands. And the stitching speed is fast and work efficiency is good.

If you don’t use pony, you can check the shape of each stitch easily.

These two methods have the same outcome, but the process and its usage are different. We will find out the difference while stitching.

<1. Hand sewing without pony>

The first step is to insert two needles into each hole as shown in the photo.

Pull the thread out backward.

Now, insert the right needle to the left hole. At this time, the left thread should be moved downward.

When you pull the thread to the front and back, one stitch is made.

It is the front view.

Now, insert the left thread into the right hole.

Penetrate the thread so that both threads can be back part.

Again, pull the right thread through the left hole as before.

Second stitch is made.

You can see that the hole of griff is /// direction and it comes out in the opposite direction diagonally.

Pull the thread according to the direction of the hole of griff so that you can check the shape of diagonal line.

If you do this in wrong direction, uniform diagonal line can’t be made.

You can do the same for the rest of stitches.

Unlike the front, the back part has almost straight line without any diagonal line. Of course, you can make diagonal line on the back purposely.

I will tell you about this next time.

It is a view of thread knot.

Overlap two or three stitches more and finish with bonding using wood glue.

<2. Hand sewing using pony>

I will use pony this time.

First, penetrate the thread into one hole you want to start.

Insert pony and pull them so that the length of thread can be the same.

When you insert pony, make sure that the front side of griffing is on your right.

Penetrate the thread on the back to the hole places in the direction of you.

Then, insert the front thread into the same hole while putting the back

Thread downward.

When you pull the thread on both sides, one stitch is completed. You can work for the rest stitches in this way

In case of this bag, it has a rotating shape and there is not enough space to insert pony on one side. In this case, sewing without pony would be better.

This is the outcome of hand sewing without pony.

This is the outcome of hand sewing using pony.

Since there is no big difference in the outcomes, you can work with the style that suits you or situation.

I just use both methods according to the situation.

You mastered the basic skills of hand stitching. I think you have already reached certain level.

BAEL LEATHER SCHOOL

Written by

Participating in the work of leather crafts, writing and lecturing at BAEL Leather School after completing 'La Scuola Del Cuoio' in Italy.

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