Hand Stitching 4. Stitching Diagonal Line on Both Side (1)

You need to do griffing work that makes a hole needle can pass in advance to do hand stitching.
This can be divided into the followings.
1) Bundle griffing after bundle bonding
2) Griffing and drilling with diamond-shaped awl after bundle bonding
3) Bundle bonding after individual griffing
The first method would be most commonly used.
It is to make a hole by penetrating the griff in the front and back after bonding two leathers.
But, in this case, the griff is not vertical and it can be shaken. So the back stitch may not look good. When the leather is thicker, its twisting would be worse.
So, there is a way to griff the half of the thickness and then penetrate the back using diamond-shaped awl after bundle boding.
And there is another way to griff the front and back side of leather first before bonding and then to find the hold with needle after bonding.
This is called both diagonal line methods.
The good thing about this method is that the front and back stitch can come out correctly through previous griffing hole.
But, the biggest premise here is that the position of the two holes should be the same.
If it is not the same, you may have more strength when sewing or you have to skip to align the stitches. And the shape of stitch may be worse due to the slightly twisted hole.
That is, it can be medication if it is used well, but it can be poisonous if it is used poorly.
I don’t actually use both diagonal line methods well because of its disadvantage. I rather prefer the second method.
For the bag, I use the possible machine.
If you have to do hand stitching on both diagonal lines, you’d better to griff and stich after aligning the start point only, ignoring the number of stitches.
This is because that there may be an error even if you adjust the relatively long length in advance due to the nature of bag.
If you stitch by skipping some of them, how can you solve the shape of twisted shape?
In my case, I’ve been working to match the front stitch by skipping the back stitch that is not seen well. Frankly, twisted back stitch is not seen well.
Then, let’s look at the work process.

Currently, final fabrication is left in this bag. I will make sure that there is no problem of twisting during fabrication using the tongs.

As you can see, it is quite thick. I was going to stitch with machine, but I changed my mind to do with hand since it is too thick.

We need to draw marking line that can be the reference line for griffing.
The leather you see is shrunken type, and the marking line by divider is not seen well.
In this case, you’d better to use a marking tape like the photo.

This is a view with marking tape.

I will griff for each leather. For reference, griff is №8 of Vergez Blanchard.

Griff the body part after the side.

After griffing, remove the marking tape.

Attach for bonding.

Bond the side to the main body.

Now, I will stitch with hand.
At this time, it is good to prepare the diamond-shaped awl as well.
Since the leather is quite thick and several leathers are overlapped, it is difficult to find the front and back holes.
In this case, it is good to find the holes needle will pass with diamond-shaped awl.
So, I will stitch with hand using diamond-shaped awl.

Prepare the awl.

Pierce from the front hole to the back hole.
At this time, be careful not to pierce too deeply.
You can just pierce as much as the needle can pass.

Other stitching is the same as hand stitching in general.
Let’s see more of the stitching photo.

















