Machine Stitching 8. Stitch with Hand and Machine Together

BAEL LEATHER SCHOOL
Sep 2, 2018 · 4 min read

There are advantages and disadvantages in machine stitching, and it is same for the hand stitching.

This time, we will look at how to combine these two to overcome the disadvantage and take advantages of them.

In this case, we will connect a simple handle on the bag.

I’m going to work with machine for the overall stitching to increase work efficiency, and I will use hand stitching for connecting to the main body to have stable connection since machine works can be difficult due to the thickness of leather and raised spot.

But, the problem here is that the machine and hand stitching looks somewhat different and the direction of the hole is the exact opposite. Of course, it is possible to do this by using customized griff with blade in the same direction as the machine, or by drilling the hole in line with the direction of machine and number of stitches, but it can’t be exactly same as machine stitches.

To solve this

1) Stitch overall part with machine first

2) Unwind the thread only in the part to be connected in main body

3) Connect to main body with bonding; make a hole to match the hole of machine and finish to connect with hand stitching.

As if making stitch with griff in advance in hand stitching, making a stitch with machine is the key.

At this time, the difference between machine stitching and hand stitching can be reduced a little since the entire stitching is made by machine.

As such, there are relatively many cases you need to work with a machine and hand together.

Cases which is difficult to work with machine or requires precision and durability of hand stitching may occur.

I will introduce one case by case according to various situations from now on.

Then, shall we Provo it (Provo, means ‘try’ in Italian)?

It is a simple handle.

First, I will stitch with the machine whole area.

I completed stitching.

Then, I will connect handle to the main body like the photo.

Now, I will unwind the thread on the part where to be connected.

Pull the machine thread based on the back side so that it can be pulled up and easily unwound.

Unwind the thread to the desired position.

Bond it to the main body in the corresponding position.

Bond the handle.

Attach it.

Make a hole with diamond shaped awl and stitch it with hand.

I finished, but there is still some sense of difference between machine stitching and hand stitching.

So, I did a little different way to connect.

I stitched everything with the machine.

The quality of outcome was much more satisfactory than the above work.

This method

1) Is to stitch the parts that will not be connected with the machine first

2) And work with machine in the connection part of main body

3) And finish with hand.

The back side is cleaner and more complete than the one made by awl.

In addition to this, there will be a case that we need to make a hole for stitch with machine and then stitch with hand for the few stitches that can’t be stitched with machine.

There will be also a case where we need to use stitch intervals by using griff for hand stitching and make actual hole with diamond-shaped awl.

Anyway,

The end justifies the means.

BAEL LEATHER SCHOOL

Written by

Participating in the work of leather crafts, writing and lecturing at BAEL Leather School after completing 'La Scuola Del Cuoio' in Italy.

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