Day 11

Today was our first volcano day. We got picked up at 6, an hour so early in Antigua that not even the wifi is awake yet. Driving in Guatemala is like a cross between two experiences I’ve had: the drive from Chelyabinsk to cherbarkl in Russia when we’d go to visit Oleg and our driver would pass multiple cars at once on a two lane road getting back over just in time, except now all the roads are curved and go either up or down a mountain; We got on the expressway during rush hour and it was almost as bad as LA traffic, although this may have been more demoralizing because there were people walking along the side of the highway to get to work and school…. And they were going faster than us.

Despite this, and the fact that I don’t think traffic lights are a thing here (I’ve been told they exist in Guatemala City), I have yet to see an accident of any kind.

Once we got there we met our guide, Elena, and started off up the volcano. This hike was harder than some others I’ve done as it was almost straight up and over tricky terrain including rocks, wood, ash, more ash, and occasionally some dirt (probably the stuff we moved last week).

Once we got near the top we had a choice to go all the way to the top for an extra $60 or go make marshmallows. We chose marshmallows and I have no regrets.

Before we got to the marshmallow spot we found a place called the lava store, which sold pieces of art that incorporated parts of the volcano, usually lava stone with charred coconut. This is one of only 3 or 4 stores in the world that are located so close to an active volcano. National geographic has done a piece on them that I’ve linked to below.

Then we walked around the corner and found a place where the lava rocks hadn’t cooled as much so we were able to roast marshmallows just by putting them near the rocks. They were really good too! As we started to head down we could see an increase in smoke and rock coming out of the volcano and were reminded that it could erupt at literally any moment (spoiler alert: it didn’t. I’m still alive).

The hike down was a lot easier than the one up, but we still had to make sure we were paying attention or we might lose a footing and tumble down, or step in some of the very prevalent horse poop.

After getting back to the hostel we relaxed for a couple hours and then wandered around Antigua a bit again, finding our way to one of the most intense and elaborate markets I’ve ever seen. They had anything you could think of there, and probably five places that sold it. We eventually found some bandanas (to keep our faces clean while volcano boarding) and walked back, stopping at ta’cool (a cheap and delicious taco place a block from our hostel) for dinner.

We ended the night by going a small Irish pub near us with the Irish guys we’d met at the hostel and had a really great time drinking with them for a couple hours. The bar tender said my name was too boring and forgettable so they put my tab under the name “dude.” I abided as such.

travel:

3 hours

80 miles

http://www.ticotimes.net/travel/2015/07/the-humble-shop-atop-guatemalas-pacaya-volcano/