Welcome To Your Palace, Monarch!

Pranay "Kriti" Bhageria
6 min readJan 9, 2022

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ONCE UPON A TIME

The Falaknuma Palace is definitely “Like the Sky” as its name suggests (In Urdu, “Falak” means “Sky” and “Numa” can be loosely translated to “Like”.). With the foundation stone for Nawab Viqar ul-Umara’s, Prime Minister of the erstwhile princely state of Hyderabad, opulent private residence laid in 1884, this magnificent “Mirror of Sky” was completed in 1893. Made up entirely of Italian marble with stained-glass windows, the stately home was intricately decorated for nearly 22 years with fine frescoes and Venetian chandeliers. Covering a sprawling area of approximately 94,000 square metres, this unique scorpion shaped palace, designed by William Ward Marret, showcases various shades of Italian, Greek and Tudor sways. Nestled amidst the clouds at 2,000 feet, one can enjoy breathtaking views of the old city of Hyderabad from the citadel. Such was the intriguing beauty of this castle that a 1 night visit by the 6th Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Mahbub Ali Khan Siddiqi Bayafandi, converted to a 1 month stay in 1897. Sensing the growing affinity of the Nizam with his “house”, Viqar ul-Umara, with his head bent in respect, “surprised” Mahbub Ali Khan by presenting keys to the palace whilst stating that this landmark was built very much for “His Highness” only!

COMING OF “TAJ”

(Clockwise from top) Durbar Hall, Jade Room and World’s Longest Dining Table

The palace, when in its full glory, hosted the likes of King George V, Tsar Nicholas II and Dr. Rajendra Prasad amongst other notable dignitaries before falling into utter desuetude during the early 1960s. In the late 1990s, looking at the palace’s potential and relying on their usual knack of converting dust into gold, the maverick Tatas stepped in to bring back the prestige the Falaknuma Palace deserved! After spending over 50 million United States Dollars and investing 10 painstaking years in labyrinthine and careful restoration, the Tatas threw open the doors of this wonder, reborn as Taj Falaknuma Palace, for one and all in 2010! After an unnerving wait of almost 5 decades, the distinguished collection of the Nizam’s artefacts could finally show themselves off! Encompassing stunning paintings, imposing statues, unmatched handmade furniture and a mammoth conglomeration of jade, 4 marvels stood out in this inimitable treasure trove: 1) the imperial library (replica of the one in Windsor Castle) housing some rare manuscripts and first edition books, 2) one of the most beautiful drawing rooms- the Jade Room, 3) the regal ballroom in paradise cum audience hall- the Durbar Hall and 4) world’s longest dining table where 101 people can simultaneously encounter the signature brigade service. Adding to the sheen are a 2 tonne manually handled musical organ (Speculated to be the only one on God’s green earth!) and one of the only 2 identical billiards tables from Burroughes & Watts (the other sits pretty in Buckingham Palace).

THE CHAMBERS OF LUXURY

They have 60 well appointed accommodation options (45 Palace Rooms, 3 Historical Suites, 8 Royal Suites, 3 Grand Royal Suites and 1 Nizam Suite- their duplex Presidential Suite with a private pool!), each boasting of impressive hand-painted walls, glistering oak floors and opening to sensational vistas of symmetric palace courtyards with amazing fountains (the soothing sound of water flowing gently from them being absolute music to one’s ears) centering them. Whether you take a dip in their picturesque swimming pool, holistically revitalize via a massage therapy in their spa or take long walks in their well landscaped gardens, a good night’s sleep is a surety in the palace courtesy of the very balanced mattresses in their rooms; they are just the perfect mixture of spongy and firm, neither do you sink in (like one does in those extra soft spring mattress at most hotels) waking up with back spasms nor do you feel that you are to the letter lying on a wooden slab! Enhancing the sleep quality is their extensive pillow menu. The carefully chosen vintage bathroom fittings including basin, bath, shower, sanitaryware and all other washroom accessories like even robe hooks, towel rails and corner baskets come from the reputed Perrin & Rowe of London. You are spoiled between spending time in an extravagant marble finished restroom with alluring mirror art, huge looking glass, expensive Forest Essentials toiletries and exclusive Multani Mitti face pack and a gracefully revamped architectural genius bedroom with grandiose décor; literally and metaphorically taking you back in time!

EAT THAT AS YOU MAY

With gastronomical alchemists at work 24/7, you always leave your table delighted and look forward to the next meal in the palace. Sticking to the menu card is a crime as an array of well done cuisines like Chinese, Italian, Japanese, Mexican and archetypal Indian await to strike a chord and tantalize your taste buds! Being vegetarian is an honorary status as you get to drool over the likes of an inconceivable Vegetable Haleem- an out of the box take on the typical Hyderabadi Mutton Haleem. The desserts too are equally lip-smacking with flamboyant presentations, take for example their exciting deconstructed Tiramisu. Apart from the many cuisines, if you still fancy something else under your palate- you got it! Any food item not available today as per your wish will be made available the very next day even if you, yourself forget about the same! You are certain to leave with a full stomach and a brimming heart whether you savour breakfast and lunch alternatively in the classically done up Celeste and Adaa or relish sumptuous dinner at the Gol Bungalow with the stars and moon verbatim sitting next to you! If the serene setting of the Gol Bungalow alone does not satiate you, the comforting qawwali rendition that takes place every day will beyond doubt act as the desired magnet. The feeling of getting high on soulful music with the cool breeze combing your hair is second to none; it is inexplicably magical, you have to experience it to believe it!

THE STAFF THAT LOVED ME

The palace, in all its grandeur and light, would have remained merely a building had the lovely staff of Taj not been in there to bring it alive. Anything said for the crew will only be an understatement! With an unrelenting impetus to serve their guests up to the hilt, the warm and genial ladies and gentlemen of Taj Falaknuma Palace seldom disappoint. Always on their toes, they remit their smiles through their opaque masks! You learn a plethora of things just by starting a conversation with them, a dialogue that they too keenly look forward to. They have an eye for detail and suddenly appear from nowhere should they find you in even trifling confusion. The security staff willingly offer to take photographs of you and your loved ones against the stellar facade, on the towering staircases, the main foyer or absolutely any other spot of the palace! The restaurant staff go out of their way to help you with some fantastic food ideas and customize your meals as per your flavour and portion size. Marshalling his troops to exemplariness is the very cordial General Manager of the property, Mr. Parvinder Singh Bual, who remains at the disposal of his patrons round the clock! Mr. Bual was kind enough to share his learnings and insights spanning decades over a candid chat whilst hosting me and my family for drinks and appetizers on the superb Jade Terrace one fine evening.

NEVER SAY NEVER AGAIN

When in Delhi, you put up in a hotel and visit monuments like the Red Fort; when in Kolkata, you again put up in a hotel and visit places of interest like the Victoria Memorial but when in Hyderabad, you have the golden opportunity of staying overnight in probably the most sought after tourist attraction of the city- Taj Falaknuma Palace! We, sans any second thought, firmly declare that we had the pleasure of reliving history while residing in this living palace! Still breathing profoundly, we now hold the distinction of being acquainted with sentient heaven! The Taj Falaknuma Palace, if marketed properly, is the apt lodestone Telangana needs to boost its tourism and subsequently nurture this sector to such robustness that it strongly supports the economy of the state. Hardcore nationalists, troubled by the dark patches of the history of Hyderabad, too can take pride in the fact that it is now owned by the very patriotic Indian Hotels Company Limited (IHCL) and be the company’s guests without the slightest of apprehension!

Beware, this “scorpion” does sting very hard when you prepare for departure, fervently asking, “Why so soon?”

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Pranay "Kriti" Bhageria

Travel aficionado aiming to take you places through writing!