Eight Important Knots Every Climber NEEDS to Know

Kenneth Hamel
Jul 26, 2017 · 4 min read
Setting up during an SPI course…knots, rope, gear, more rope, other knots…near the edge, but safely anchored in, with a back up/catastrophe knot!

There are a LOT of knots out there, for a myriad of applications and from many origins…rock climbing, arborists, marine, and more.

Get the right knot, for the right situation, and you’re golden. But what knots should you fill your cranium with? Do they all work, and do any shine above the others? Suppose I’m new to climbing what ones should I focus on? Which will I need the most?

There are lists out there, and these are the ones I agree with. There are more you may want to get to know…someday…but this will get you started and keep you safe.

Number one is arguably the most important, the Figure 8 Follow Through, or Retraced Figure 8. This is the preferred knot for tying into the sharp end(climbing end) of the rope. What every gym will require for tying in.

This image shows the knot, and then the tightened knot, with the proper ‘tail’ length. Some gyms might require a half double fisherman’s as a ‘finish knot’, above the fig. 8 follow through.

Ring Bend, or Water Knot. This is an excellent knot for joining two ends together. For rock climbers, we often see the water knot when analyzing a webbing/sling set up at a rappel station. It is common(when bolts aren’t used) to have slings around a tree with rap rings on it for a rappel.

a Water Knot, excellent for joining two ends of webbing together. When you see these at a rappel station, make sure you can identify a properly tied water knot, as integrity is key!

Prusik knot. This, or sometimes the Autoblock, are great for use when backing up a rappel, or for facilitating ascending a rope.

Prusik knot(with a double fisherman’s connector knot)
Autoblock…the carabiner joining the two ends would go back to your belay loop during an extended rappel.

Figure 8 on a bight. An excellent knot for a top-rope set up, many beginner climbers are taught this, to help set up a safe, redundant top-rope anchor.

Figure 8 on a bight. Pull the rope(bight) tight, and this is an excellent knot for a few different situations

Munter Hitch. The preferred knot for rappeling IF you’ve dropped your ATC(or similar) device. Also used for backing up beginner rappels, and can be used for belaying as well.

The hunter hitch, showing both uses. Notice the orientation of the loop is different for each use.

Double Fisherman’s Bend. Used for a couple of things…SOME prefer it for tying two ropes together for a rappel, and it is almost exclusively used when tying a prusik LOOP to facilitate a prusik or autoblock back up for a rappel.

Double Fisherman’s Knot…perfect for tying two ropes, or two rope/cord ends together. Leave a little longer ends.

Girth and Clove Hitches. Girth hitches are great for many applications, tying a sling to your harness, etc.

The Girth Hitch…
The Clove Hitch

The Clove Hitch…great for a quick tie-in at an anchor…adjustable and safe. Make sure you tie it correctly. I arrived at a multi-pitch anchor setup on a big ledge, to find a climber already there. As I said hello, I noticed her tie-in was a munter hitch(NOT safe!). I asked her about it, and she volunteered she was getting back into climbing, and thought/meant to do a clove hitch. I talked her through tying a proper clove hitch. A Clove Hitch can also be used on a top-rope anchor leg…safe, easy to adjust/tweak the length.

What I’ve detailed above, are the knots every climber should know, recognize, and be prepared to use. For instruction on each, you can find sites on-line, you can get a great book, or you can have a qualified climber/guide show you how. In the end, do not use these knots until you’re sure you are tying them correctly, EVERY time, and double check!

Winter is an excellent time to practice, so you’ll be ready in the Spring.

Climb on, and seek qualified instruction when and where it’s needed. Never stop learning. Ken

Kenneth Hamel

Written by

In my 8th year of climbing, and fortunate to work in the ‘industry’ with R&W Rope of New Bedford, Mass. Working towards completing my SPI exam. AMC co-leader.

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