Ice Climbing the first time
I’ve been climbing for 7 years, this is the beginning of my 8th, so it is safe to say I’m hooked. I put in over a 170 days last year, between the gym and the outdoor crags.
Through all this, the appeal of ice climbing alluded me. I didn’t see any reason to be out in the cold, on the ice that now covered my beloved rocky summer crags. Sharp crampons on my feet, ice axes in my hands, deep snow, and trying to stay warm. Yuck! PLUS, to make things more complicated, I grew up skiing. I know how to do that, and didn’t want to take away any ski days for ice climbing days. Many of my climbing friends have urged me to try it. As a co-chair of the technical climbing committee for our AMC chapter, I was starting to consider it.
This Winter, lo and behold, an opportunity presented itself to me. Through a neighboring AMC chapter’s ice climbing trip. That trip was through the Appalchian Mountain Club. This club is an excellent means to sample year round outdoor activities. This I couldn’t pass up. It was an affordable way, with instruction and gear, to try out ice climbing.
So one Saturday morning, I find myself getting up well before dawn. I drove across the Kancamangus Highway in New Hampshire, from Lincoln to North Conway. Where I would meet other like minded climbers, for our first foray into the realm of ice climbing.
The facilitator for our endeavor, was the IMCS(International Mountain Climbing School). This school based out of North Conway, NH. Gathered us at their facility and began to get matched up with gear…they have everything you would need. As a climber, I needed the pertinent stuff like boots, crampons and ice axes. Then we headed out…
A non negotiable is a helmet, to protect you from falling ice and…anything else. This is a Petzl Meteor.
The North End area of Cathedral Ledge was our destination. Interesting and beautiful to see this area that I know from the summer months, now all covered in snow and ice.
Once geared up, the instructor took our group and started to show us how to navigate with crampons on. Two others set up top-ropes for us. We learned to walk on flat ground, the ‘duck walk’(like it sounds). The French style of ascending, the German style. The combination of the two designated as the International. We spent some 20min ascending and descending(using the ‘plunge’ method) a trail to the bottom of the slabs. At one point the instructor turned to me and said “you’ve done this before!?” No, was my response, first time. I was getting how to navigate in crampons well, but what about climbing ice? Gulp.
Now it was time for the real thing. Technique explained, harnesses checked, ice axes were held, and then it was game on. We started out using one axe, then graduated to two, and worked on our footwork. We ascended incorporting the ‘triangle’ method. Kick, kick, ice tool, kick, kick, ice tool, and repeat. Moving our feet/bodies under the higher placed tool(we staggered them). We learned on moderate and easy terrain and practiced going over bulges and moved up to WI3+ routes by the end of the day.
This was a LOT of fun, and I was finding it suited me quite well…dare I say, easy!? It wasn’t lost on us that the weather was perfect for a beginner class. Mid 30’s, so the ice and the snow were softer (‘hero ice’ it’s calld). Ice axe and crampon points buried deep. There were plenty of instances where one could use an already hammered hole, or step, for placement.
The basic things I learned:
> Dress warm, and bring extra layers. No matter how warm you think it is, standing around in snow all day is chilling. > Bring something warm/hot in a thermos. When you need a break, that warmth is invaluable. > Bring plenty of snacks and a good lunch as well. > The lower number of swings you need to place your ice axe, the fresher you’ll remain for later in the day. > You often only need to get the tip of your ice axe buried 1/2"…do it right, and trust it. > No Grigri’s, only ATC’s. As the rope (with snow on it) can get thickened by snow and melting/freezing temps, and won’t allow a Grigri to operate well. > Don’t lose sight of your feet(especially when going over bulges), look to place them well. > Straight arms to hang from. > Watch pulling your ice tool out! Pull up a little, not down or side to side, and watch your face/head orientation…don’t look right at it! > Drop your heels a bit, to engage that 2nd row of front crampon points. > Rest whenever an opportunity presents itself. > Don’t overgrip your ice tool. > Shake out or relax your grip whenever you can…avoid the pump! > Watch the rope, you’re operating with sharp equipment! > When descending, keep the points of your ice axes away from you. > Enjoy! If you’ve been climbing for a while, it very well may come easy to you, and that’s OK!
This an excellent way to begin ice climbing. The quality of intruction, the ease of aquiring the gear, and the reduced group rate. IMCS had all the tools, and the guides were efficient and qualified. They gave us students the best chance for a successful and rewarding day out.
If you find yourself with the opportunity to learn and experience ice climbing, go for it. It will likely be a great day out, and add to your ‘quiver’ of climbing experiences! My climbing friends love the ice climbing season, and many consider it as much (or more) fun as rock climbing.
Climb on, and seek qualified instruction when and where it’s needed. Never stop learning. Ken
