Joining 2 ropes together for rappel
Somewhere along the line you’ll find yourself rappelling. An easy way to get off of many climbs, particularly multi-pitch. Most of the time you can just use one rope, find the middle, tie knots in both ends and rappel down.
Anything can happen when on a climb. You may have to get down fast because of a storm coming or darkness. Other parties could be waiting for the same rappel. Depending on the number of ropes you have you might want to join two ropes for a quicker rappel. Skipping an intermediate stop, and re-set up, can save you precious time if/when you need it. But what knot should you use to set up a safe two rope rappel? Many climbers having strong opinions about what should/shouldn’t be used!
The Flat Overhand Bend is popular, and recommended by the AMGA.
When tying the Flat Overhand Bend knot you must dress it correctly and tighten it vigorously. To do this you must pull on each ‘leg’, and have long (18–24") tails. The knot CAN roll, but it usually requires more stress than on a typical rappel, with typical ropes. I am in the habit of backing mine up with a single overhand (pressed up against the knot) on EACH strand of my tails. The AMGA suggests a secondary overhand behind the first (using both of the tails). I know people that only use this knot, and those that don’t, want nothing to do with it.
Another knot that is sometimes used is a Flat Figure 8 Bend. Yet, this knot is dangerous and has resulted in rappel fatalities. While it can look more substantial, it can roll under much less stress than the Flat Overhand bend.
A popular knot I have seen employed by climbers, and one guide, is the Double Fisherman’s Knot. Tied correctly, this is a bomber knot. Which can be hard to untie if enough stress is against it almost welding it together.
As in any knot, this can be tied incorrectly…make sure to double check!
In tests performed by Black Diamond, the premier equipment manufacturer. The Ring Bend is a good knot with strength that matches the Double Fisherman’s Knot.
The Flat Overhand Bend, Double Fisherman’s Knot or the Ring Bend, can be used safely. So long as each knot is tied and dressed correctly and enough ‘tail’ is left for the associated knot.
So know your options, don’t take another climbers knot for granted…accidents do happen. Inspect your knot, leave long tails and always inspect another climbers knot.
Climb on, and seek qualified instruction when and where it’s needed. Never stop learning. Ken
