Guest Blog: Essex Coastal Scenic Byway

Yesterday I decided to attempt my first 50 mile bike ride. I have gotten into longer distance riding within the past year or two. It’s definitely different than cruising around the city on quick jaunts to work or to a friend’s place. I bought a new bike recently due to my desire to go on longer rides. The bike I bought is the Raleigh Revere 1 and it’s a change from the single speed city bikes I had in recent years. It has gears, and even a low sporty riding position that has taken some getting used to.
Anyways, I set off with my boyfriend Chris on a Cape Ann ride on this beautify summer Sunday. We wanted mileage, and we loved the idea of ocean breezes and views along the way. We mapped out a route that started and ended in Salem, MA.
We parked and set off, and right away we were climbing as we approached the Salem/Beverly bridge. I was huffing and puffing. I am still learning the best way to use my gears and shifting to the greatest effect. I quickly learned that Cape Ann is way hillier than I ever realized when driving a car. However, despite the ups and downs, the views along the way were breathtaking, so that was enough to keep us smiling. Also, each time we got our asses handed to us by a challenging hill, there seemed to be a fun downhill ride or at least some cool sightseeing to get us back to being happy and having fun. Also I know I for one felt pretty proud after conquering some of the challenging parts — even though I was cursing and hating my life during them.
We first went through Pride’s Crossing and the wended our way into Manchester by the Sea. I had fun pointing out all of the quaint train stations, ice cream stands, houses, and shops along the way. I spent some time in that area in my younger years and always liked it so it was a bit of a trip down memory lane. It was fun to share some of my memories with Chris. He has never been to the area. “I’m sorry, I’m probably boring you,” I said, but he was too busy with his jaw dropping to the ground, enjoying the beautiful scenery, to mind. I had that big smile on my face, that I usually have while skiing. Especially when we went on fun, long downhill sections….
In Manchester we stopped for a Vitamin water and an ice cream at Captain Dusty’s, a classic local spot and hung out at the beach to enjoy it. I pounded back the vitamin water in minutes, amazed at how delicious and refreshing it was. It was a hot day! It felt great to hydrate and my coffee heath bar fro yo made the perfect breakfast. Next, we were off to Gloucester, with a quick side trip to show Chris Hammond Castle, a unique oceanfront castle that was built by an eccentric millionaire in the earlier part of the 20th century. We got honked at by a car, and then yelled at by some of Hammond Castle’s rich and mean neighbors. Ugh, let’s get out of here!
Gloucester waterfront was fun — we got to see the famous Gloucester fisherman statue and stopped as a bridge went up to watch all of the boats passing through, struggling with the waves under the bridge. “He drives like I do,” one local woman cackled. The sun felt so good, and it was fun to watch all of the boats. Next we found ourselves at the Blessing of the Fleet, a big Italian festival that takes place every year. We passed through just minutes before the parade and my ADD started kicking in as I saw food carts, colorful street performers, and more. “Let’s keep going,” said Chris. There are many fun bars in Gloucester, including one where Whoopi Goldberg sometimes works in the summer. However, we had many more miles to go, so we had to stay focused and moving forward.
Up next was Rockport. We were at the 22 mile mark and it was time for a break. “You’ve never been to Rockport?” I asked Chris in amazement. We got off the bikes and walked around, checking out some of the art galleries and shops, and loving the ocean breeze down at the end of the pier. We found an awesome bar called the 7th Wave that had a rooftop deck. We sat down and got a beer and some oysters. What a delicious snack and unbelievable spot to take a break! After that I grabbed an espresso and we were ready for round 2!
The next leg of our journey was a challenge. There were quite a few big hills and we were getting tired. Different body parts were starting to hurt, especially my butt and hands. I was struggling. But we made it to our next stopping point, Essex, MA — home of antique stores, salt marshes, and delicious fried seafood. We sat outside people watching as we ate the best fried clam strips ever at J.T. Farnham’s. Woodman’s of Essex is the other popular spot on the same road, but Farnham’s is cheaper and maybe even better. We hopped back on the bikes with full bellies and well rested. I was licking salt off my lips. I wasn’t sure if it was from the clams, the ocean air, or my sweat but I didn’t care. It all blended together and felt great. I was also getting pumped by the fact that I was actually going to achieve my goal for the day, as we now only had 12 miles to go.
The last leg of our journey took us through the picturesque farmlands of Hamilton and Wenham, such pretty towns. And then we rode back through Beverly and I go to see the places where my kids went to day care and preschool over ten years ago. What a blast from the past. We travelled through downtown Beverly, the other side of town, past pierced punk kids from the art college and funky shops and cafes. “We need to live here!” said Chris, like he always does when he visits a cool new place. I love that about him. We biked back over the bridge and into Salem. The streets were like an old friend to me; I went to Salem State College all of those years ago. Chris was still chatting about the cool 1 bedroom loft we would get once the kids go off to college, the way I would take the ferry to work in Boston. He’s a dreamer, and very enthusiastic, and loves places like I do. We were sore but happy as we rode into Pickering Wharf with the sun setting to meet up with a friend of ours and share a celebratory beer. My legs felt good, I felt strong and successful, and the Harpoon IPA was delicious. We watched some soccer on TV and caught up. I was also happy to learn that my workplace’s looming strike had been successfully averted. All in all, it was a great day and an awesome first (but definitely not last) 50 mile ride.
Guest blog courtesy of Ryan Alice Bailey
