Pakistani Fashion, Then and Now.
From Peshawar to Gilgit-Baltistan to Kashmir to Punjab, Sindh and Balochistan, the diversity of language, landscapes and culture is rich in Pakistan. Similar to Pakistani culture and landscapes is its fashion. Abounding with colours, fabrics, embroidery, trims, cuts and of course, limitless style.
Pakistan is a 71 year old country which received secession from the British Raj in 1947. Much of Pakistani fashion was a product of Indian and even British influence until more recently. My mom was born in the heart of Pakistan, a city called Karachi, when the country was only 23 years old. Fashion was important to her. Coming from a middle class family of the 80s, she designed her own clothes, bought her own materials and asked her Nani (Grandma) to sew them for her. She was not alone in doing this, it was a common practice for most women. Fashion enabled her to express her personality and she remained in-vogue and snazzy as long as it was affordable.
Being of a generation with “ready-made” Pakistani clothing available to me, I asked her, “Why did you design your own clothes? Couldn’t you just shop for clothes at the market?”. TeeJays was the answer to this question.
TeeJays
The answer was simple, “ready-made” shalvar kameez (National outfit of Pakistan) wasn’t readily available. I then discovered the godfather of designer, pret-wear clothing in Pakistan; Tanweer Jamshed. His brand was called “TeeJays” and my Mom stresses that it was every Pakistani woman’s dream to wear his clothes in the 80s.
In a recent day interview, Tanweer explains that the national dress, shalvar kameez, was being lost to colonialism. Pakistan had just gained independence and the British Raj was evicted but men were accustomed to the attire of the Englishmen due to the nearly 100 year occupation. Women on the other hand, were accustomed to Indian clothing and frequently wore sarees.
During the colonial occupation, shalvar kameez became to be for the poor, those who could not afford British clothing. Luckily, as per TeeJay himself, Bhutto (former Prime Minister) became the game changer and revived the wardrobe. He wore the outfit of the average Pakistani and won a place in the heart of Pakistani citizens. In 1982, it became a requirement to wear shalvar kameez in the secretariat office. TeeJays took advantage of this and brought the outfit as a ready to wear product in the market. Tanweer’s work was stylish and well adored but just the tip of the iceberg. Pakistanis had no idea what was coming for them.
Pakistani Fashion Now — a Subculture
Fast forward to now… Although the attire itself has merely changed, the couture and attention to detail has brought forth an evolution. Pakistani fashion is a subculture which deviates from traditional modest clothing. Shalvars have become pants, usually above the ankle. Necklines have expanded to boat necks or off the shoulder. Dupattas (scarf worn with shalvar kameez to cover the chest and/or head) are being neglected or sidelined and heads are bare. These changes are of course more prevalent in the cities among youth. Traditional, modest style is still followed but less popular. In 2009, Pakistan’s very first fashion week was held and as expected, the runway was full of young female models. Again, against the cultural norm; the birth of a subculture.
What makes Pakistani designs so special, what sets them apart?
- Intricacy
Below are images of my wedding Lehnga (skirt). Each wire (left image) is hand stitched for each shape all across this A-line skirt. It weighs 10 lbs; intricacy at it’s finest.
- The impeccable union of all Pakistani cultures
This is an outfit designed by Zahra Ahmad. The design depicts the epitome of cultural union. The shirt has a traditional Balochi triangle followed by a rectangle which Zahra has matched with layered, bell sleeves and modern flapper trousers. Zara is not the only designer to produce such concoctions. Maria B and Ali Xeeshan are among other Pakistani designers that are presenting such pieces. They could implement a peplum shirt for a Pakhtun (Denoting Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, a province in Pakistan) touch or Patiala Shalvar for Punjabi flavour. These small choices alter the overall persona of the piece to relate to women across the country.
Pakistani Identity
The major achievement of Pakistan’s fashion revolution is the distinction of Pakistani identity from Indian. As mentioned earlier, Pakistani fashion underwent an identity crisis during the secession period which resulted in wearing clothing from Indian traditions. Now, Pakistani and Indian fashion is different and easily identifiable. Pakistani designers have this industry to call their own and Pakistani women have their own identity.
Below is a list of some big name designers and when they were found. You’ll notice the concentration of founding year between 1980s-2010. Pret-wear brands have soared since the 80s.
Click the names to check out their instagram pages:
Sana Safinaz, founded 1989
Maria b, founded 1999
Khaadi, founded 1998
Elan, founded 2006
J. by Junaid Jamshed, founded 2004
Saira Shakira, founded 2012
Zainab Chottani, founded 2009
Saira rizwan, founded 2007
Asim Jofa, founded 2007
Baroque, founded 1989 or earlier
Farah Talib Aziz
Nomi Ansari
Ali Xeeshan
Pakistani Weddings
Everyone knows the movie, “my big fat greek wedding “. Well, Greek weddings have nothing on Pakistani weddings. Across the globe wherever Pakistanis live, they host gigantic, over-the-top weddings. Just Youtube “Pakistani Wedding” and you’ll see what I mean. Pakistani designers cater their services heavily to the wedding industry because not only does the Bride need a new dress but every woman attending the wedding does. In middle and upper class families, repeating the same fancy outfit twice is a big no-no. If somebody has seen you wear an outfit, it’s best you do not wear it again until people forget about it. it sounds snobby but it is true.
The Pakistani bridal designers charge elite prices. If you were to convert the price from PKR to USD, it would still be a very expensive outfit. But, each centimetre of stitching, rhinestones, embroidery and colour pertains to each dollar or rupees spent. The detail is absolutely inquisitive and posh.
