Restraint Making a Bold Statement — Suarez Family Brewery
Words and photos by Ryan Hohm
Suarez Family Brewery is making excellent beers out of Livingston, NY, and they’re doing so in a subtle way. Their beers don’t have bold flavors or ingredients, but their style and execution is what impressed me. Their beers are exceptionally refreshing, nuanced, and on the lighter side — both in body and alcohol level. Lighter brews by Suarez Family Brewery, however, are anything but simple.
Entering the brewery you’re funneled through a short, dark hallway directly towards the bar in an airy, white-washed tasting room with great natural light. Behind the bar is a list of the offerings for the day — around 8 or so beers with simple descriptions. I narrowed my selection down to three: Homespun (spelt ale, 4.9%); Crispy Little (pale wheat ale, 5.0%); and Hecto (an american pale ale dry-hopped with citra, mosaic and amarillo, around 5.0%). At $4 per 8 ounce pour, trying them all will be my priority next visit, but I was driving. Each beer was patiently poured and brought out to me with fluffy white head clinging to the rim of the glass (think muffin-tops, that’s how fluffy they were). The head on the Homespun died down first, so that’s where I began.
With balanced flavors, mild sweetness and a chewy body, Homespun was ridiculously easy to drink. Tropical fruits, yeast and fresh cut grass were all present, but not overpowering. It was juicy and savory at the same time, yet had a pleasant sweetness on the finish.
Crispy Little was next up. What a perfect name for this beer — Bright oranges, a light body, and lively carbonation made this beer stand out from the others. Effervescent and dry, Crispy Little left me craving that next sip.
I saved Hecto for last, figuring their American Pale Ale might be their boldest offering. I was only partly correct. This pale ale had the now familiar soft body and mouthfeel that the other beers possessed, yet differed in hop aroma and flavor profile. Dank earthiness mixed with tropical fruits and citrus. As the beer warmed up, a piney, resinous bitterness eventually gave way to refreshing flavors of tropical fruits. Plenty of complexity and balance in this hoppy offering.
To me, Suarez Family Brewery seems to really shine in their decisive approach in creating balanced, refreshing, complex beers. Their beers are versatile, approachable and exciting, and I think this brewery will continue to put out refreshing beauties for a long time. As I was walking out, growlers in hand, I saw a room full of large oak barrels behind their tasting room. I can not wait to taste the funky gems that come out of there in the near future.
