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One Whaling Ship Down

Iceland’s 2023 Whaling Season:
A Frontline Report

9 min readSep 19, 2023

I recently returned from an assignment in Iceland, where I served as a photographer for the marine conservation organisation Hard To Port (as well as a freelance journalist for various news agencies). My mission was to document the delayed start of this year’s whaling season.

The season started late because Minister of Food, Agriculture and Fisheries Svandís Svavarsdóttir suspended whaling for two months, following evidence that documented the cruelty of whale hunting. This evidence can be attributed to the excellent work of animal rights groups such as Hard To Port or Captain Paul Watson Foundation UK (formerly Sea Shepherd UK) and the enormous public reach of Hvalavinir Hreyfingin.

Nonetheless, the ban on hunting fin whales was lifted because whalers claimed to have improved their killing techniques and stated that they are complying with stricter rules (such as no hunting in bad weather, etc). You can find the new rules posted here.

The Whaling ships in the port of Reykjavik. The yellow line holds a copper wire wich will be used to electrocute the animals in addition of just shooting them with two explosive harpoons. This method however were rejected by the minister.
The location of the whaling ships when moored in the old port of Reykjavik.
The whaling ships are moored right beside various other ships that take tourists on educational voyages about whales and their habitats.
The whaling ships are moored right beside various other ships that take tourists on educational voyages about whales and their habitats.

About Hard to Port and the 2023 campaign

Hard To Port is a non-profit organization based in Northern Germany, focused on marine conservation. Founded by Arne Feuerhahn in 2014, it has become a significant advocate for marine wildlife in Northern Europe. The organization is vocal about its passion for ocean life and uses multiple strategies to fulfill its mission, such as investigative work, protests, public campaigns, and educational events.

For the past decade, Arne has been in Iceland working on Hard To Port’s campaign against whaling. He has been on the ground in Reykjavik celebrating the news that came out on June 21st, announcing the suspension of whaling for the reasons mentioned above.

Anja Laabs and Arne Feuerhahn back in 2015.

Late Summer 2023

Encounter with Icelandic enmity against foreign journalists

I arrived in Reykjavik on the 30th of August, still hopeful that Minister Svandís Svavarsdóttir would permanently ban whaling. Unfortunately, she didn’t. On the 31st of August 2023, she announced the continuation of whaling from the town named Egilstaddir where the government held a summer meeting (Infos on Heimildi).

Despite several requests to Dúi Jóhannsson Landmark, the Press and Information Officer of the Ministry of Food, Agriculture and Fisheries, asking for access to the meeting or any information about a press conference or access to a statement that might be given afterwards, it felt like I was kept deliberately. A local Icelandic news agency did broadcast live, and a sort of press statement by Svandís Svavarsdóttir followed the government meeting. Because of this, I found Iceland to be less press-friendly, which left me somewhat shocked.

On the evening of August 31st, local and international activists gathered in front of the whaling ships to protest the decicion Svandís Svavarsdóttir took. While some delivered speeches, others played music over the PA system. It was undoubtedly a sad day for all involved.

Speeches by Anahita Babaei, Micah Garen, Valgerður Árnadóttir and others.

Two activists are occupying the whaling ships in Reykjavík’s Old Harbour

After the ban was lifted, the first storm of the incoming autumn season was about to hit Iceland. With waves predicted to reach 5–7 meters in the open sea, it was clear that the ships couldn’t set sail immediately after the ban’s removal.

This gave two activists, Anahita Babaei and Elissa Bijou, enough time to prepare and occupy the whaling ships. In the early hours of September 4th, they climbed up to the crow’s nests of the two whaling ships, determined to prevent them from departing. Police and fire departments were quick on the scene but couldn’t remove Anahita from her spot. Instead, they took her backpack, which contained her mobile phone, provisions, and essential water. After some discussion and the involvement of Icelandic anti-terror squads, the police seemed to decide to starve the two activists out. For the next 36 hours, Anahita was denied water, even though she communicated that her health was deteriorating.

Activist Elissa Bijou climbing up to the crows nest.
Elissa and Anahita in their Buckets enjoying the view.
The Police accessing the occupied crows nest.
Police arguing what to do.
Second attempt.
Grabbing Anahita’s backpack.
First officer of the local anti terror squad arrived on scene (13:22).
The police blocked the street and the whole pier. This made it hard for people and reporters to get close.
The Crew including both captains of the ships gathered on the pier.
The two occupied ships and the Harpa, one of Reykjaviks landmarks, in the background.

Misconduct of the Icelandic Police Pt. 1

Not only did the police withhold water and confiscate belongings from the activists, but they also initially attempted to lift Anahita Babaei out of her bucket without any harness or safety measures, all at a height of approximately 15 meters. Furthermore, they blocked off the entire pier for no apparent reason, making it more difficult for journalists to report from the scene. The journalists and protesters gathered in a nearby parking lot were not interfering with police operations. The sole reason for this blockade appeared to be maintaining a communication blackout for the activists. When the journalists were eventually allowed onto the pier, they were specifically instructed not to ‘shout’ or exchange information with the activists. Additionally, the police canceled any calls made to the emergency number 112, preventing doctors from examining Anahita’s state of dehydration.

Police officers climbing up the mast trying to talk the activists out of their spots.
Protesters in solidarity with the two activists. The closed pier in the background.
Protesters in solidarity with the two activists. Icelandic actress Hera Hilmar in the background. Valgerður Árnadóttir on the right.
One protester was concerned about the activists, so she entered the area designated for the media/press to try and speak with Anahita. Despite being 50 meters away from the ships, separated by a narrow street and numerous police officers, she was immediately handcuffed by two officers and taken away.

Nonetheless, the activists Anahita Babaei and Elissa Bijou vacated their positions the following day (after 36 hours without water nor sleep).

Anahita Babaei and Elissa Bijou being interviewd by icelandic TV after their blockade.

Shortly after the ships left the old port of Reykjavik, heading toward the whaling station in the fjord named Hvalfjörður. After completing their last preparations there, the ships set sail for their hunts on September 6th, 2023.

All in all, the work of animal rights groups delayed the start of the hunting season by several months. Anahita and Elissa further postponed it by an other two days, thereby saving numerous whales from being hunted, killed, and slaughtered.

The two whaling ships left port in Reykjavik and moored at the whaling station for the last preparations before setting sail. Picture taken 5th of September 19:04 GMT.
The two whaling ships HVALUR 8 and HVALUR 9, owned by the fishing company Hval.hf, are moored at the whaling station in the fjord Hvalfjörður, near the town of Akranes. The harpoons are loaded before they head out to sea for hunting.
In the foreground, you can see the wrecks of two other whaling ships, Hvalur 6 and Hvalur 7, which were sunk in 1986 by an activist from Sea Shepherd in Reykjavik. If you like to visit
CEO Kristján Loftsson of the commercial whaling and investment company Hvalur hf. leaving the compound in his car.
CEO Kristján Loftsson of the commercial whaling and investment company Hvalur hf. leaving the compound in his car.
Ships leaving the whaling station on 6th of September, 17:07 GMT.

Here are some more pictures i took begining of September around the whaling station in Hvalfjörður.

The whaling station as seen from the street.
The whole compound is under camera surveillance.
For this season, the whalers installed a second fence around the premises. This one is electric.
Dead animals will be pulled up this concrete ramp and slaughtered on the platform above.
The whole area is also surveilled by a team using drones.

Misconduct of the Icelandic Police Pt. 2

The whaling ships return back to shore

In the early morning of September 8th, the whaling ship Hvalur 8 returned with a dead fin whale. Just a few hours later, Hvalur 9 followed, carrying an additional two deceased whales.

Hvalur 8 coming back with one dead fin whale.

While driving to the whaling station in Hvalfjörður at 3am in the morning, I was stopped twice by patrolling police officers. The first time, I informed them that I was a journalist documenting whaling activities in Iceland. On the second encounter, I told them that stopping cars without a clear reason was indicative of police-state tactics. Regarding the police survailling the whaling station I managed to collect footage of them patrolling the area, as well as standing directly at the main entrance. Moreover, I noticed Kristijan Loftsson, the CEO of the whaling company, directly conversing with the police. All of these observations strongly suggested that the Icelandic police were acting more like a private security firm than a public law enforcement agency.

Screenshot of clips documenting patrolling and parked police cars in front of the whaling station.
A police officer taking to Kristján Loftsson in front of the whaling station.
A police officer taking to Kristján Loftsson in front of the whaling station.

Shutting down Hvalur 8

I continued documenting the returning ships, snapping photos of the lifeless whales and forwarding them to Hard to Port’s headquarters. Upon review, it was evident that the first two whales had been shot multiple times, a violation of the newly established regulations by the ministry. Activists had long been emphasizing that these animals suffer agonizingly for hours if the first shot isn’t fatal. Video-Footage proofs it.

Hvalur 9 returning with two dead whales.
One of the picture documenting the slow death of this whale due to two shots being fired into non-leathal parts of the whales body.
Activists watching the ongoing slaughter.
Despite challenging weather conditions, activist Samuel Rostøls is risking it all to document the ongoing slaughter for the Captain Paul Watson Foundation UK. On a hunger strike for nearly 10 days now. You can take a look at his amazing and shocking footage here: https://cpwf.uk/commercial-whaling-iceland

My photographs served as evidence for the Icelandic law firm Rettur. They utilized these images to highlight that the hunts still failed to meet animal welfare standards, in an official letter to Matvælastofnun — the Icelandic Food and Veterinary Authority (MAST). This persuasive correspondence led the authorities to forcibly shut down the whaling ship Hvalur 8 on September 15th.

In the End

The whaling season is still ongoing. It remains to be seen what will happen to Hvalur 8 and whether Kristjan Loftsson can lift its ban. Hvalur 9 left to hunt again on the 18th of September. Arne is back on the ground, documenting everything that’s going on and reporting on Instagram.

Links and Screenshots of our media coverage

Contact

If you are looking for reports, infos and photos please drop Hard to Port an email.

If you are looking for printing photos in your magazine/newspaper, please head over to either:
https://picturedesk.snapshot-photography.de/
or https://www.sz-photo.de/

Pic taken on a whale watching tour outside Reykjavik.

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Sidenote: If you’d like to visit this area and take a look at the sunken whaling ships, you can hop over to ATLAS OBSCURA for directions and more information.

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Bo Niehaus
Bo Niehaus

Written by Bo Niehaus

Mobile App Developer & Photojournalist based in Berlin, Germany // #neurodiverse #nonbinary --> https://borisniehaus.de

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