On 10 November 1659, a medieval Indian commander of Afghan descent, Afzal Khan, who served the Sultan Ali Adilshah II of Bijapur was sent to capture Shivaji Bhonsle, a 29 year old Indian warrior king and a member of the Bhonsle Maratha clan. In a combat that followed, Afzal Khan was killed. This legendary episode is now a subject of various controversies. It was not because of these issues we planned to visit Pratapgadh but just an irony that we found ourselves at the fort the very same day, 355 years later.

We expected a cold winter morning at Mahabaleshwar being a November. But it turned out to be a hot and humid morning as we set out from MPG Club towards Pratapgadh. The breakfast at MPG starts at 8 and we were in no mood to pre-pone their timings for our sake. And even if we insisted, they were in no mood to oblige. I was piggybacking Santosh George Kulangara of Sancharam fame and my close friend Anosh Malekar was guiding us.

This was my second trip to this fort in as many years. Forts in Maharashtra are fascinating but at the same time it is ruined with its local inhabitants making all possible alterations and additions to sell their products to the weekend crowds of Mumbai and Pune. Butter Milk, Kokkam and Lime Water are the favourite thirst quenchers while pithli bhakri is the local delicacy you should taste if you are hungry. It was pre-breakfast time when we reached the foothills of the fort. So we decided to try something else to keep ourselves fit.

This fort was built by Shivaji and this is where the entire new breed of Shiv Sainiks vouch for Marathi pride. This is where Shivaji killed Afzal Khan. For many the story ends there. There are few who go ahead to narrate that Shivaji had Afzal Khan buried with full military honors, as befitting his stature and reputation at the foot of the Pratapgad fort, a mausoleum which a few rabid Hindu organization wants to demolish. But due to poor support from the locals and the entire state, the agitation fizzled out. More on this from Ram Puniyani here.

There are also few mentions that Shivaji fought against Bijapur Sultanate, Deccan Nawabs, East India Company, and the Mughals. Also very few are told that Afzal Khan’s secretary was Krishnaji Bashker Kulkami, a Hindu who attacked Shivaji with sword when the combat was on. Of all, you can find Shivaji’s secular credentials in a Pakistan Official website which says “Muslims were on the highest posts in many departments, including his Navy and Artillery. Moreover, many of his bodyguards were from Muslim community.” Todays generation fails to understand that there were no Muslims or Hindus or Christians centuries back. There were only kingdoms and wars were fought for geographical annexures. The more land you capture, the more powerful you become and more taxes you collect. Another tomb near Afzal Khan’s is of Sayyad Banda, the personal body guard of Khan who was also assisted by the chieftains Fazal Khan, Ambarkhan, Yakutkhan, Siddi Hilal, Musekhan, Pilaji Mohite, Prataprao More and many more. These list never had any distinction between Hindus and Muslims.

To commemorate the tricentennary of that historic event, and equestrian statue of Shivaji was installed at the top of the Pratapgarh fort in 1959 AD which was unveiled by Pandit Jawarhal Nehru. The road on which we travelled right to the beginning of the fort was exclusively built for him. According to Wai based blogger Asif Merchant, “to get to the fort of Pratapgadh, one has to go down from Mahabaleshwar to the village of Wada, and then climb up to the fort. Those days the only way to go up from Wada was on foot. While the energetic youngsters could climb up on their own, the weak and elderly were carried up on sedan chairs by the local villagers.
On being informed the transportation plans made for him, Pandit Nehru, being repelled at the thought of the villagers being used as beasts of burden for his benefit, refused to come. The State Government had no option, but to make a motorable road up to the fort.” Asif Merchant is a master of this place. His blog about this place is a must read for everyone interested in this area.

We reached the top and being a Monday, the place was almost empty. The views from either side of the fort is breathtaking. The more you go to this place the more you like it. But you can never guage the difficulties in building such forts.

Situated almost 3500 ft above sea level, we stepped into Bhavani temple first where Shivaji, confined to the fort after Afzal Khan army surrounded the fort, prayed first before setting out to meet Khan. Well before this he had a meeting at the Citadel with his trusted lieutenants chalking out a plan. This plan apparently included a scenario what will be the next course of action if he doesn’t return. At the back side of the fort is a scenic view of Konkan belt. Here is where the soldiers kept a watch on the advancement of enemies. There was an emergency exit route too. This is a fort one must visit at least once in life not merely because of its great glory but because of its glorious history.

I wonder how meticulous these rulers have got it planned. Every small detail is accounted for. Today as we pass through the unplanned cities with poor architecture, I realise the greatness of these people who have never gone to any expensive schools for any formal training. The pristine glory of these places are now lost in the concrete jungles. When we took a detour through villages to witness some strawberry farming, we realised how unplanned tourism have adversely affected the natural beauty of these places.

As we got down to visit yet another fort, this time a Sea Fort, I looked back and saw a blocked entry towards the tombs of Afzal Khan which is now embroiled in a court litigation. When will we learn to respect and learn from history?