This is part three of the series. To read earlier sections, please click here.
The Empire Builder: Part 1
Day 2: Seattle to Spokane, Wash.
Through door three, leaving King Street Station, behind the station help as he led me out onto the platform. Just minutes earlier he had made the first boarding announcement for “Train No. 8, Empire Builder to Chicago…”
The middle-aged gentlemen continued his statement by rattling off further stops. “with service to:
- Edmonds, Wash.
- Everett, Wash.
- Wenatchee, Wash.
- Spokane, Wash.
- Sandpoint, Idaho
- Libby, Mont.
- Whitefish, Mont.
- East Glacier Park, Mont.
- Havre, Mont.
- Glasgow, Mont.
- Williston, North Dakota
- Grand Forks, North Dakota
- Fargo, North Dakota
- St. Paul-Minneapolis, Minn.
- Milwaukee, Wisc…”
By about the time the station hand got to Havre, Mont. nearly everyone waiting for a train was mystified. There are over 40 stations along the more than 2,200 mile route, and he was naming about half of them. Of these 20 or so cities, only five are significant in size.
Finally when he finished with “…Chicago, Illinois and all intermediate cities,” someone in the back of the room began clapping. Most of the 200 other people joined in and immediately the man grinned.
Departed Seattle: 4:40 p.m. (PT)
Pulling out of the city, the train continues north and follows the Puget Sound a while longer.
As the locomotive pulled the dining car, two sleepers and two coaches along the rails, we could see many people along the beach.
Riding through Edmonds and then Everett, Wash. the Empire Builder took a right turn away from the waterfront. The landscape immediately changed to plains in route to the next stop in Leavenworth.
Between Everett and Leavenworth it is 99 track miles and yet, Amtrak’s schedule has 2 hours 21 minutes built in. At a consistent cruising speed of 79 miles per hour, it normally would take just over an hour.
The reason for the added padding lies in the Cascade Mountains. About 20–30 miles after departing the platform in Everett, the Empire Builder begins its climb upward; from around sea level to over 6,000 feet.
It is such a treacherous climb with just one locomotive, the consist could not be any longer. More so, the engineer usually needs longer than the allotted time to get to Leavenworth.
After ascending over a mile in elevation, the locomotive enters into the Cascade Tunnel.
Prior to its opening, trains were required to climb OVER the mountains and this could take days. Especially when it snowed, which in season happens more than locals would care to talk about.
Now it takes about 15 minutes to make it through. However, if you’re claustrophobic or have a fear of choking on diesel fumes (who doesn’t?) then you may want to consider taking a short nap.
In all honesty there is nothing to worry about. The Cascade Tunnel has a special ventilation system built in to remove the toxic diesel fumes. It is so advanced, it can pump clean air through the entire tunnel in 20 minutes.
Shortly after exiting the tunnel the train made its stop in Leavenworth and was about 40 minutes behind schedule.
Despite this, the engineer made good time over the next two stops, Wenatchee and Ephrata, to get us back on schedule. In fact the train arrived three minutes early into Spokane, Wash, where it would meet the Portland section.
In Spokane, the Portland and Seattle sections of the Empire Builder are combined and another locomotive is added. It takes about 35 minutes to do all of the switching and it left us with two more sleepers, two more coach cars and a cafe car/observation car.
Departed Spokane : 1:25 a.m. (PT)
Throughout the night, the train made stops in Sandpoint, Idaho and Libby, Mont. Somewhere just before the latter stop, the time zone shifted leaving me slightly confused when I awoke a few hours later in Whitefish, Mont.
But this view made me immediately feel better.
The Whitefish train depot resembles a home you might find in Bavaria or the Swiss Alps. It even had beautiful blooming tulips out front.
After a short step-off here to stretch, I took a seat in the observation car where I remained for a couple of hours.
The views of the Rockies coming into the Glacier National Park region was incredible. I might have missed my stop due to being transfixed if the conductor didn’t make an announcement.
Arrived at East Glacier Park: 10:19 a.m.
I got off the train in East Glacier Park and laid over for two days so I could explore the aforementioned park.
My accommodations were at the historic Glacier Park Lodge, which was built by the Great Northern Railroad in 1913.
This hotel has everything you could possibly need to make one feel at home. Just inside the front doors is the massive great hall, which is made from hundreds of cedar, spruce and aspen trees among others.
Just off the great hall is a fireplace lounge, gift shop, convenience store, the Great Northern dining room, an outdoor deck, a indoor breezeway with large glass windows for site seeing and the Empire Bar (and grill).
The desk help is phenomenal and allowed me to check-in several hours early. A transportation agent is also at the desk from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. to help residents sign up for or find out info about their tours.
Another interesting thing was the culture of the lodge. The national parks often open summer jobs to anyone and everyone who would like to apply. It is a great learning experience and during my stay I was helped by people from Oregon, Eastern Montana and a few people from Eastern Europe including a young lady from the Czech Republic.
Before heading out for the day on a tour, I dropped off items in my room. The space was a nice size and very comfortable. There was no television or air conditioning (there was a fan), although neither are needed.
The room also had a very vintage and antique feel to it, which was nice. If you’re looking for a modern hotel, this is not it. But then again, you’re not traveling to Glacier National Park to sit in your room all day.
