2.20 — Sanctuary

Arrived at the Sanctuary at 10am when they opened. We shared the gym with a few others but, luckily, there were no birthday parties. Being the first day of Julianne and my commitment to exercise for at least 30 minutes every day, we spent a focused two hours top roping various routes, all of which we had tried before.

I warmed up by traversing the freestanding pillar as Charles rolled open the other door.

It is always a treat to be able to circumambulate this pillar in the gym, unobstructed by other climbers. I felt solid moving from hold to hold, selecting both pinches and jugs as I warmed up.

Progress report

Julianne’s favorite routes included:

5.9 Red (Calvert) — 1 hang

This route has an interesting foot match right at the top that spit Julianne off. She will totally send it next time.

5.8 Orange (Calvert) — 1 hang

I was awesome to see her 1 hang because just a few weeks ago it shut her down completely about 10 feet off the ground.


I was stoked on a few routes.

5.11c Black — Galen

I 1-hung this route the other day and was very happy to send it. I felt that there were two very delicate cruxes that came within the first half of the route. The top was overhung and straight forward on good crimps and pinches with a dyno to the top.

5.10d Lime Green — Calvert

This route is rad but, is definitely a tough 10d (I actually got shut down at the first crux pretty hard when they first put it up and before it was graded and was surprised to see 10d on the tape). However, after having not tried it for a few weeks, I figured out the beta for the bottom crux and, although you’ve gotta get this really high foot placement juuuusst right, it felt solid.

The upper crux was also tricky for me. I had to move pretty decisively through it and was relieved when I got to the blocky, right hand, gaston, which is the “jug” of that section. Definitely felt kinda desperate moving into the gaston. This route is awesome.


Dropped Julianne off at the apartment and returned to the gym for an afternoon bouldering session with Al while she went for a run along the Rec trail. It was awesome to see him channeling his inner sloth on some tough boulder problems. Very inspiring!

Workout total!

J — Climbed 2.5h, ran 30m

A — Climbed 4.5h

How did it feel?

We both put in a solid effort and it felt really good to devote the better part of a day to training. My right shoulder is definitely sore today, in a good way!

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