#2–2030: Inspiring the Future of Fashion

by Ana Costa, edited & translated by Kaleigh Tirone Nunes

Disclaimer 1 | Our initial reaction when prompted by “what will the fashion industry look like in 2030” was pure delight. The following moments were slightly more daunting. Evolution is occurring at an exponential rate and coupled with the current pressure to regenerate via the Fashion Industry, our predictions could end very far from the truth. We do hope the future holds a much more positive reality than what is anticipated in our projections.

Disclaimer 2 | This commentary was originally intended as an exercise covering global developments. It organically ended up zooming in to Portugal, as the country that will catalyse global movements towards a net-positive reality. We have become very curious to revisit this article in 2030.

Disclaimer 3 | This article is a “Backcasting” exercise: a tool originally developed by The Natural Step, in which we define our desirable future and work backwards to strategise the path to get there. Below is our idealised, nevertheless in our view very achievable, scenario of 2030 for the Fashion Industry in Portugal. Always taking current developments (2019) in Innovation & Technology into account.

This is an exercise, an inverse projection, constructed simplistically, as we believe deconstructing complexity can successfully lead to an accurate diagnostic with step-by-step solutions.

Lisbon, 12th of October 2030

Photo by Graziela Sousa | Dino Alves | Moda Lisboa Março 2019

THE TRANSFORMATION OF THE PORTUGUESE TEXTILE AND CLOTHING MANUFACTURING INDUSTRY

The last decade was pivotal for the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Manufacturing Industry.

If ten years ago fashion was held as one of the leading sectors responsible for the squandering of natural resources and disrespect for human rights, it might seem surprising that it has become the industry leading change.

As fashion is inherently a seductive industry and the journey of acquisition is so influenced by emotions, it inevitably originated a global movement led by citizens. Citizens demanded more innovation, drastically lower consumption of resources and more respect for humanity.

Fashion was the ideal emotional vehicle to demand a paradigm shift.

During this journey, Portugal became a global example, as it redefined Responsible Production.

THE PILLARS OF CHANGE

Design, water, energy, chemicals, waste, biodiversity, technology and collaboration. These were the pillars on which the Portuguese Fashion Industry based its evolution.

On these, Portugal secured its position as the transformational leader of the sector between 2020–2030. Firstly, the high cost of resources within the country made change much more appealing and impactful on companies’ yearly quotas. Secondly, the realisation of the power of regional collaborations enabled industrial synergies, which permitted the sharing of knowledge and costs of innovation. This interdependent network became so strong, that it made an accelerated transformation inevitable.

The investment in innovation also permitted the development of a diversity of products with higher retail prices, which quickly became bestsellers.

Citizen’s demand for transparency of processes reshaped the image of industrial production. Factories became more accessible, began investing in their brand image and reinvented their direct to consumer relationships, becoming themselves desirable trademarks.

The crisis of 2020, due to the relocation of large clients textile production to other countries, seeking lower labour costs, revealed itself as essential in this process. Portuguese companies quickly understood that the progression of the sector needed to be lead by responsibility. This decision was what essentially added ultimate value.

THE VALUE OF COLLABORATION

A plan was outlined through a collaboration with the academic sector, NGOs, Think Tanks and the government, enabling the legal framework necessary for change.

The academic sector innovated via the development of more efficient solutions for water and energy consumption. The results transformed the textile dyeing and finishing processes into closed loop circuits — guaranteeing localised recycling systems for constant recirculation of water. Another significant development was the reutilisation of waste-water for industrial processes. This change meant the reduction of 90% of water consumption.

Technology played an integral role in the reduction of energy consumption and CO2 emissions. Developments in this area permitted the automated and sentient adaptation of spaces to their occupation, optimising the waste of resources via renewable inputs.

A wider resources and materials flow analysis identified potential synergies between companies within the same region, marking the beginning of a new era of interdependence. Technology was quickly developed, which automatically identified outputs as exchangeable inputs and as a result we observed the simultaneous reduction of virgin material imports and the production of waste.

The government’s investment in legislating a Circular Economy model was without a doubt essential in this process. This furthermore facilitated the transformation of bi-products into necessary raw materials for neighbouring industries.

The digital transformation went from being considered a threat to the sector, to a new and highly effective network of support for the Portuguese Textile Industry — generating more specialised jobs and enabling the requalification of textile and manufacturing workers, who originally were deemed lacking expertise.

TRAINING AND REQUALIFICATION AS A SOLUTION FOR INDUSTRY 4.0

The exponential development of more precise and efficient technological solutions in the sector, especially in the development of patterns & prototypes and cut & sew phases, greatly reduced the consumption of resources and lowered the creation of waste. Simultaneously these developments resulted in higher rates of unemployment in the north of Portugal.

A pivotal revision in 2020 of labour legislation in Portugal was the principal driver for social well-being and changes in worker conditions, which granted higher flexibility in workers business hours with reduced workloads. The investment in training and further education was the key element contributing to worker requalification and the increase in employment.

Suddenly new types of jobs became available. Jobs that didn’t require stationary positions and heavy lifting, making workers more qualified than ever before.

PORTUGAL AS A RAW MATERIAL PRODUCER

Innovation and technological developments also improved the effectiveness of the country’s metabolism, altering the equilibrium of the national commercial balance.

Until 2020 Portugal imported most of its raw material: there were natural fibres such as wool & linen, however quantities weren’t sufficient for the country’s volume of production.

The progression of regional circular economic models, as well as the development of new fibers, reduced imports and increased exports.

The growth and expansion of Spider Silk was one of the greatest catalysers of change — especially in its utilisation in outdoor equipment and as a substitute for polyamide. The development of a new national industrial unit and laboratory where Spider Silk began to be synthesised from yeast, water and corn sugar (corn being one of the leading cereals farmed in the country), enabled large scale production.

The production of fibres via algae (alginate) at industrial scale also greatly increased the quantity of fibres produced in Portugal. A further related innovation was the reduction of consumer products that were chemically dyed, as this fibre is dyed with non-chemical pigments.

It had been a while since Portugal was internationally viewed as highly enticing for its strategic location (a potential bridge between the USA and Europe), climate & gastronomy. However the government’s investment in supporting and attracting foreign investors, companies and talent, greatly fostered further business and job creation.

DESIGNING WITH PURPOSE

National designers and brands quickly responded to the fast shift in customer needs and industry developments. The notion of “Responsibility” began to be integrated into the value chain from inception.

They began to design their collections taking future environmental and social impact into consideration. They began using innovative wovens and knits with reduced virgin fibre content. They applied accessories and trims that made garments more versatile. They designed timeless pieces that when reaching their end of life could be disassembled and recycled.

Purpose became part of their every move. Creating to make their customers develop long-lasting relationships with their clothing. Enabling their customers to release ownership without creating waste. Designing to last, to respect the unrepeatable resources that are within each garment — this became their motto. To impassion every single hand throughout their garment’s lifetime.

This gave way to a shared economy — where those involved in the design & production of fashion became fully responsible for their purposeful and qualitative development. Easy maintenance and customers prioritising quality surpassed the previous decade’s need for quantity and ownership.

SUSTAINABILITY AS THE STRATEGIC DRIVER OF CHANGE

In a global economy it’s essential to take strategic political decisions into account, that made it possible for Portugal to establish economic differentiation, growth and sustainability.

The government’s investment in the textile industry was also the trigger of growth in other supporting industries, bringing prosperity and jobs at a regional and national level.

International companies established new roots in Portugal, such as the industrial laboratories processing the above identified fibres. This brought innovation, development and significant impact in the repopulation of deserted regions of the country.

THE GLOBAL IMPACT OF THE SECTOR’s DEVELOPMENT

Although the present article is focused on developments led by the fashion & textile industry in Portugal, all the above mentioned developments greatly influenced the global positive impact of the Fashion Industry.

Fibre innovation reduced the environmental impact of natural fibres. Greatly improving water and energy consumption, chemical necessity and endless land occupation. This allowed for soil regeneration, reduction of deforestation, increase of biodiversity, which greatly increased food security . All these resulting impacts were significant for the increase in world population and global quality of life.

This change of location in the production centres of virgin fibre significantly reduced the distance and transport required between fibre cultivation & extraction, spinning and cut & sew manufacturing to customers. Greatly reducing the carbon footprint associated with the sector.

A NEW ENTREPRENEURIAL PARADIGM

We cannot end this voyage to the past without mentioning the importance of the mindset shift of Portuguese entrepreneurs in the transformation of the sector.

Their understanding of how to add value to the market, by delivering products to a more informed client base and directly addressing environmental demands, while never compromising the quality and market trends. Their investment in new equipment and technology, enabling the reduction of water and energy consumption as well as the environmental impact of their companies. The courage necessary for change, which obliged them to take decisions with social implications.

Sharing information and contacts (networking) brought entrepreneurs closer to each other throughout the entire value chain. It became easier to establish trustworthy, long-lasting and mutually beneficial relationships, which catalysed their smooth transition into the industry’s new status quo.

The 2020–2030 decade came to an end with the powerful term “transparent collaboration”. This was undoubtedly the key to global success, which we celebrate today.

THANK YOU

Although this article is a commentary, I would like to thank the imparcial review of Ana Silva and Maximiano Martins, whose contributions enriched this creative exercise.

A special thank you to Kaleigh Tirone Nunes for challenging me with the “Backcasting” exercise, for all her support in editing and the constant debate of ideas and concepts, which support my development. To Ana Ferreira, who I always trust with everything I write.

Another special thank you to Graziela Sousa for the wonderful photograph of Dino Alves’s fashion show at Lisbon Fashion Week in March 2019 and to my colleagues of Meet The Maker #2, with whom we developed what we believe is the value chain of the Portuguese Textile Industry.

Catalyst | Inspiring Future Fashion

Written by

An inclusive platform and collaborative space for the sharing of knowledge, resources and experience towards a sustainable future. http://fashioncatalyst.org

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