4 Weeks Island Hopping in Greece: Santorini, Naxos Paros and Crete. Let’s Talk About It!

It’s been a welcome escape, island hopping in Greece, across the Cyclades, on the blues of the Agean sea and as mentioned, the main landing points were: Santorini, Naxos, Paros and Crete.

Over the four scheduled weeks I can’t say there were any dull moments. Aside from all that white washed, blue domed, Greek loveliness, I managed to observe a few quirky goings-on, including the tail-end of a McDonalds wedding (yep). We’ll zoom in on these over the rest of these Greek Island hopping blog posts!

Antiparos, Greece

Hot Hot Hot

After much research, June was strategically chosen to get some warm weather, dodge the peak cruise ship and high season crowds, rocket high hotel prices and sweltering heat of July and August (the months everyone seems to warn about) — while September/October, seemed too long to wait, but probably a good option.

What I didn’t expect was the 30C+ temperatures in June, a dry burning heat. Locals across the islands were echoing that the heat was stronger than usual for the time of year, truly truly hot.

I’m sure this Naxos cat would confirm what I’m saying about the heat

Various excursion ideas were dashed due to the thought of trudging out in the strong heat, fast replaced with a few unscheduled ‘nothing days’, book and beach days, sit and sip smoothies and people watch days etc….some slower travel, which we all know is always a good idea right!

A little sea front meadow in Rethymnon, Crete, just outside the Old Town

Rethymnon Old Town Crete

A nice lemon juice in Paros

Island Hopping in Greece: Let’s get into it

The flight into Santorini proceeded a string of ferry commutes between the islands before the flight back home to enjoy the rest of the good old British summer!!

The islands in the Cyclades are within easy ‘island hopping’ distance so if you’re able to, it’s worth planning to see more than one while you’re in the region if you’re interested, it’s a popular travel style, and plenty of helpful bloggers and vloggers have been showing us how to do it for years.

I’d agree with the majority of travellers who suggest minimum of three nights is about enough on each island to have a good look around and see some key sights — but at the same time I’d add that travelling between the islands can be quite draining and tiring, so having some additional rest days on each island might be worth factoring in if you have the time.

I’ll share snippets and tips over the pending series of blog posts, so if you’re considering a bit of Greek island hopping yourself, or a vicarious snoop, stay tuned.

Side note: I know we all know this but — sometimes you just need to go and experience a place for yourself, regardless of the moans, and critiques from others, so do keep that in mind when I’m busy giving my opinions and as usual I’ll try not to sound like a guide book, since you can go and read those yourself.

Grab yourself a cuppa

and let’s talk Greece.

A few rumours I heard about Greece before I went as well as a few handy tips and insights

Skip Santorini, it’s over-priced, over-touristy and not the real Greece.

Please do GO to Santorini, don’t skip it, it was absolutely worth visiting, the views are stunning, and unless you think you’ve been somewhere very similar, I’d say it is quite a unique place with a distinct atmosphere. You don’t need to stay long, just do three nights, then head off to one of the smaller Cyclades islands, for some of the real Greece.

Yes it’s generally on the more expensive end, but you don’t have to stay right on the Caldera, shop around for more budget accommodation on sites like Booking.com/Expedia, you’ll find something to suit most budgets. Also, Kamari, Perissa, Pyrgos, Akrotiri….are all more affordable than the Oia/Fira region, but you’ll have to commute over to the capital Thira/Fira by bus or car to visit that area.

You don’t have to eat out in restaurants either — you can grab a gyro or something similar which is a cheap but very filling eat. Also the bakeries offer inexpensive savoury foods, like pastries, which are generous and filling, yet just a few euros. Don’t think you have to be extravagant, you don’t (but they don’t show you this on Instagram lol). Plus, there are little supermarkets where you can buy groceries and cook if you opt for self catering accommodation, another great way to keep costs down.

The beginning of June didn’t seem too bad for tourist crowds, after 5 nights in Santorini, I can say it did seem to be picking up after a few days….maybe May is a quieter month. I see people vlog their winter Santorini visits, they literally have the place to themselves,…it’s just that a lot of things will be closed (shops/excursions), but the peacefulness and views are still special.

There was one really ridiculous moment in Oia where the cruise ship crowd was so bad we left immediately, crazy, not to mention a safety concern…..July/August must be unbearable.

The key is to think it through, take your time to plan and research your trip to suit you. I spent roughly a year, slowly researching and planning this trip, changed my mind countless times about the dates, accommodation, islands to visit…etc until it started to come together as a plan I was happy with…. and even then things had to be changed here and there as hotels I wanted had become unavailable on certain dates, new ferry times had come up….this was happening a lot around February onwards….heading into Spring.

The flip side of this is that a lot of other accommodation only started to become available around spring…so the longer you spend planning and getting to know what you want, the more likely you are to get it. Twelve months ahead is a good planning time scale. Sorry if you’re #teamspontaneous

Below: Firostefani, Santorini

Pyrgos, Santorini

‘Greeks don’t queue up’

Sounded a lot like London. Not sure I noticed this as a locals ‘thing’ particularly, but when it comes to getting on the buses it seemed like a free for all, especially in Thira/Fira (Santorini).

Greece can be breezy, making it feel cooler than it is — but you’ll sill burn in the sun — sounds a bit like Cape Verde.

On the whole the entire four weeks was hot, hot hot

In the summer you’ll be glad for any breeze you can get — and if you wear light floaty linen fabrics, you’ll thank yourself.

It was pretty breezy at times in Santorini at the beginning of June, especially in the evenings — still hot in Fira but a bit cooler as you head up to Firostefani and higher up.

On Naxos we had one day out of seven where the sun remained hidden behind clouds most of the day and the breeze was quite cool down on Agios Prokopios beach. The sea felt a bit chilly as well.

Hersonissos in Crete got very windy one day at the end of June down on the sea front — it was a hot day, but in the shade out of the sun on a hotel balcony watching the waves roaring up to the shore, I wouldn’t have minded a nice fleecy hoodie at one point.

Greeks eat a lot of cheese-based foods

True, and apparently their dairy is more goat and sheep based milk, than cows. Cheese pies (pastry) and other cheesy pastries are plentiful. Breakfast in the hotels came with lots of cheeses, and of course the classic Greek salad always included plenty of feta. I don’t normally eat dairy cheese, but decided to give it a try in Greece as a one off, just to sample the true traditional home cooked dishes, and to my surprise, no belly aches, cramps and upset tummies I would usually get at home!! Even the ice cream didn’t irritate me. There must be something about the quality of the dairy on Greek soil.

Similarly, the wine and alcohol didn’t seem to have any effect in Greece. Not complaining since I’m a lightweight anyway and can usually feel the alcohol after two sips of anything — not in Greece though!!! An Australian traveller told me that Greek wine and Italian are both know for being on the weaker side, and that I should be very wary of Australian wine as it will “blow your head off” after a few mouthfuls!! This traveller was surprised though, when I said it wasn’t just the wine, but all alcohol seemed very mild in Greece, including the after dinner shots and some complimentary bottles of gin

from a hotel in Paros ( which I only tasted because they were unusual flavours, didn’t like/drink any).

Greeks are very stylish people

Great because I was hoping to do a bit of shopping out there (feeling uninspired by UK shops most of the time) I think of all the countries I’ve been to, Greece (in general) has the most stylish shops and boutiques — and I’m not talking about global designer brands, but small independent boutiques with lots of beautiful designs.

Ladies, if you love dresses and jewellery you’ll love the islands. All the islands’ tourist areas are packed with pretty clothes, accessories and of course leather sandals, a Greek staple, but you will pay ‘Santorini prices’ in Santorini, and also Santorini prices in some shops on other islands too, depending on which shops you go in. The bohemian vibe is strong on the islands, Naxos seemed very similar to Santorini in terms of price, things must have changed with growing tourism since many have said in the past that things were much cheaper in Naxos.

Also, on the whole, I’d say people like to make an effort and dress nicely on the islands, especially in the evenings.

I do think wearing black looks much more striking against all the white Santorini, Naxos, Paros buildings and backdrops (than they grey of the UK

) so yep, good choice.

Santorini socks anyone?

Ferries are the best method for island hopping in Greece.

I lean heavily towards yes on this one.

Well there are also flights to and from some islands with pros and cons whichever option you choose. The ferries are like buses in the Cyclades, the masses are on and off them like clockwork, not to mention locals and drivers, trucks etc. For me, ferries were the preferred option since there are no luggage limits or restrictions about bags, sizes and weights, no security scanners, and ferries are also much cheaper to boot. But let’s look at the Greek ferries a little more closely below, it’s not all a bed of roses.

Ferries in the Cyclades — documentary worthy stuff.

Well, a fly on the wall would be intrigued and it wasn’t even high season.

I can only imagine watching the wildebeest migration across the African planes, wonderfully narrated by David Attenborough; this might just mimic the vibe of the Greek ferry commute.

Herds of curious, excited and anxious humans charge frantically, battling with suitcase wheels and uneven surfaces, often with no sense of where they’re going much of the time, with a whirl of foreign languages floating through the air around them, just following the rest of the herd in unison until they manage to centre themselves and find their own path up into the ferry, up to the deck areas and into rows of bolted seats inside or out.

The ordeal of getting back downstairs to find their abandoned luggage, to the tune of the tannoy in foreign languages, leads to the spaghetti junction that greets them when disembarking. Some are fortunate enough to see their names written on boards held high in the air (their meticulous planning ahead paid off), while others decide to try the ‘short walk’ to their accommodation.

Eventually a noisy scattering of the herd unfolds. Buses and taxis jostle for passengers while another herd are barely held back, eager to charge aboard before the ferry swings around fast and zooms off (as they do). Ha ha

If they haven’t already, they really should do a Greek reality show “On the ferries”, that would be fun to watch.

Ready to head from Paros to Crete

If you decide NOT to do a single bit of research beforehand you’re probably in for quite an experience, some may call it fun — others ‘chaos’, maybe even trauma for the easily stressed and anxious. But don’t worry, you can do it, like approx 35 million other brave souls every year, from what I’ve read.

The whole shebang of getting on and off the ferries is hectic, rushed, frantic crowded and a bit crazy at times to say the least (countless youtube videos will attest) and if your ferry happens to turn up around 45 mins late, don’t be alarmed, it’s all part and parcel of island life, just expect the unexpected and go with the flow.

I used Ferryhopper to book all our ferry trips and downloaded the app onto my phone to make life easier, seems to be the most popular site. You can locate your ferry on the app and get updates if it’s running late. Don’t expect any announcements at the port, you’re asking for too much there!!

You can also buy ferry tickets in person from one of the kiosks or companies selling them in or around the port and busy tourist areas, but you can’t buy tickets on the ferry — you need a ticket to board….just like a plane (some of the buses are like this as well, but not all).

On the ferry from Santorini to Naxos, I’d downloaded the tickets, but still wanted to get them live online when I got to the ticket checking person on the entrance to the vessel — quickly realising there was no internet connection until you got properly onboard (I’d switched my data off — and had to step aside and quickly switch it on so I could get a quick move on….this after running to board from an entirely different/unofficial angle from everyone else, not wanting to miss it, and just charging up the ramp with all our luggage like there was no tomorrow).

The ferries don’t normally stick around for long, but this one had been stationed for over 15 mins….turns out it was our ferry but in all the confusion and lack of English from some of the staff I’d been in a tizz thinking we might be getting on the wrong vessel.

Tip 1 Blue Star ferries have the ferry departure time beaming at you in big bright writing on the front of the vessel overhead as you approach — duh

If in doubt, look look up!

Seajets as well I think.

Tip 2 Get to the ferry port earlier than you think you need to, and just find somewhere to sit in the shade and have some food/a drink and figure things out so you’re not quite so hot and stressed.

Tip 3 When you board, listen out for staff shouting out your destination and signalling which part of the hold to leave your suitcases. There’s usually a designated area for each stop, to make things easier when you’re getting off.

Tip 4 I’d heard — go for the fast ferry unless it’s the windy season. The fast ferries are smaller, but feel the rough waves more than the slower larger ferries, the ride can be very bumpy — I’d heard a lot of people become very ill on these trips if you catch my drift. I felt this on the journey from Paros to Crete (4hrs) and very bumpy. I swayed my way to and from the counter selling food and drinks, that woozy stomach feeling kicking in slightly.

The slower larger ferries are perhaps nice if you have a lot of time to spare and happy to take your time — you won’t feel motion sickness as much on these.

Economy is king. No need to upgrade your seats unless it’s a very long or overnight journey and you want some extra seclusion and comfort. Most people seem happy enough with economy/Standard or Silver class and often want to get up and go out on deck anyway. The uprgraded seats are on higher decks which are often too windy to go out onto unless you want to get blown away. It’s also quicker to get to your luggage and get off the ferry from lower down since you’re the closest to ground level…but it’s up to you.

On the packed and choppy ferry from Paros to Crete (back via Santorini), the tannoy announcer was asking passengers in economy/standard if they’d like to upgrade their seats and if so, make your way to blah blah blah…..must have had a lot of empty seats on the upper floors!! This was the busiest of all the ferries we took, ram-packed. I think the majority got off at Santorini. I didn’t bother trying to film much as I needed all arms and hands for the luggage lol.

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Food and drink — what can I tell you?

Much of the time it’s not just about food and drink, the Greeks are very hospitable and welcome you into their tavernas/restaurants as though it was their very own home. Chatter and talk is not uncommon, and much of this has led me back around to that old age saying ‘its a small world’. One Greek restaurant manager heads to Manchester in the UK for x number of months a year, to work as a lorry driver, then back to Greece running his restaurant. He enjoys driving up and down taking in the views and UK countryside, which he feels is lacking in Crete. “I look forward to seeing trees when I’m in the UK” he said, and also that being in the sun too much speeds up the wrinkling process lol. This restaurant manager says it’s been years since he’s taken a dip in the sea due to the long hours he works, yet the beach is just across the road from the restaurant.

Rethymnon, Crete

Other locals shared stories of their times spent in the UK and other foreign countries, it’s surprising we haven’t already crossed paths before….. some shook hands before we left and casually introduce their friends who are also sitting close by for a leisurely chat.

Aloof, standoffish, give you the bill quick and rush you out the door — not a chance, in fact they never ask if you’d like the bill, you have to ask them — but they’re never in any hurry to give it to you.

Ouzo (I think), the customary shot that you usually get (for free) after every meal is strong in taste if its the liquorice/aniseed tasting one

then you feel nothing. Now I’m not sure if its like that across the board or whether we’re playing Russian Roulette with these shots so be warned, especially if you’re in Santorini and have lots of steep stairs and cobbled walkways to contend with.

Free deserts and free welcome starters are the norm, you’ll soon realise. Also, they’ll wait until you’ve been waiting a while for the bill and then bring the free dessert. It’s like they don’t want you to leave the restaurant lol, here’s a few:

I think everyone knows by now that Greek portions are usually enough for two people. Now one evening I was struggling to eat all my chicken linguini and the manager hovered over to inspect how things were going. I told him the food was delicious but I was full, having eaten just over half the dish. Like a well meaning parent, he told me I must take my time, enjoy the sunset view (indicating widely) and “eat your food”!!

This restaurant manager then went on to tell me that the Greek way is to get up and dance for while then sit back down and continue eating the food on your plate, and so on and so forth until the plate is clean. Well thankfully there wasn’t any music and dancing in this restaurant otherwise I would have probably been marched out of my seat for a dance session.

It’s true, gyros in a pitta (pronounced ‘yee — row’) are everywhere and very inexpensive Greek meals, and often easy to grab as quick street food. Everyone loves them, but I’d love if they would add a bit of spice or chilli to them — just a bit would give them the perfect kick.

Fried potatoes, fries and chips

Where do I start. Just know, that these three things can all mean the same thing depending on who you speak to and which menu you order from. You might ask for chips and get round potatoes or ask for a side of potatoes and get fries. You catch my drift.

Narcotics

Smoking is more the norm than not.

Most places to eat and drink allow people to smoke/vape — ashtrays are everywhere, including most hotel balconies.

Cannabis themed shops and vending machines seem to be quite commonplace too. Not sure what the law is around smoking it in Greece though.

Fira, Santorini

Anyway, I think that’ll do for now, I know this one’s gone on a bit

sending some of you to sleep no doubt

but there’ll be plenty more ‘Island hopping in Greece’ themed posts to come, if you’re interested.

I hope this one gave you a nice little intro.

It’s been quite a while (zoned out for a bit), but I’ll be checking-in to catch up on as many of your blogs as I can

Island hopping in Greece

Take care and happy travels if your heading off anywhere this year….anywhere nice?

Best wishes

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