A visit to Mission San Jose

Chetan Vaity
5 min readJul 17, 2017

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I am going to take this opportunity to dive into California’s colonial history. (Needless to say, a lot of this is from Wikipedia)

The Native Americans (also confusingly called the Indians) were living in this land for centuries — indeed for millenia. Living in very small settlements, they probably numbered between 100,000 (capacity of Eden Gardens cricket stadium, Kolkata) to 1,000,000 (i.e. 1 million or 10 Eden Gardens). In other words, very sparsely populated compared to modern California (the current population of just the San Jose city is around 1 million).

Stone mortal-pestles from California— found in all prehistoric Stone Age societies (These photos are from the awesome small museum set up now in the San Jose mission)
More stuff — note the Obsidian blade — aka Dragonglass for GoT fans ;-)

The Spanish explorers/conquerors came in the late 15th century (Columbus in 1492, Cortez in 1519, etc) and all but wiped out the Aztec (Central Mexico), Mayan (Yucatan) and Inca (Peru) civilizations. With their main interests in Mexico and the Carribean, they also “claimed” a lot of current North America.

Very few Spaniards actually settled or even explored most of this vast continent for the next 200 years. Reports of sightings of Russian fur traders in mid 1700s on the Californian coast prompted the Spanish to make a serious attempt at “settling” California. The plan was to setup “missions” along the California coast. These were religious outposts meant to evangelise the Native Americans so as to integrate them into the Spanish empire. The missions were to be interconnected by an overland route which later became known as the Camino Real. The detailed planning and direction of the missions was to be carried out by Friar Junípero Serra.

Junipero Serra

Between 1769 to 1823, 21 missions were built from San Diego to San Franscico — all within 1 day’s horse ride from the next mission.

A painted map showing all the missions — I got this from the mandatory “museum store” :-)

But, even before the grand project could properly get under way — in 1810, the Mexican War of Independence (independence from Spain) started and the support for these missions from Spain stopped. By 1819, Spain decided to limit its “reach” in the New World to Northern California due to the costs involved in sustaining these remote outposts.

The Golden Gate area, 1816

The new Mexican republic began “secularizing” these outposts for fear that the converted peoples under the missions would remain loyal to the Catholic Church and hence Spain. Mexico passed an Act for the Secularization of the Missions of California in 1833 which took away much of the California Mission land and sold or gave it away in large grants called ranchos.

The Mexican government basically gave large land grants to “prominent” men and encouraged forming farms — with cattle and sheep — and employing the Native Americans. The description in the pictures below do a good job of explaining the Ranchos.

The Racho “Era” (just a decade)
Life on the Ranchos

Although, now highly romanticised, this “Rancho system” lasted not much more than a decade. In 1846, a young and angry nation came from across the vast eastern desert and thus started the Mexican-American war. When the dust settled in 1848, the US of A had snatched a vast territory from Mexico — comprising current day Texas, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Nevada and California.

Mexico in 1824 — By Giggette — This raster graphics image was created with Adobe Photoshop CSA map created using information from the United States Geological Survey, an agency of the United States Department of Interior 1810, 1820, 1830 and from the Secretary of the Public Education of Mexico (La Secretaría de Educación Pública de México) with 500 años de documentos.The Institute of Geography, (in spanish: Instituto de Geografía), Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) : Nuevo Atlas Nacional de México (2007), CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=26142344
Area (in light gray) ceded to USA after the war

Immediately after, in January 1848, gold was found near Sacramento and thus began the famous Gold Rush. During the next 8 years or so, there was a great influx of people from the rest of the United States and from abroad as well. Around 300,000 people came for the gold and many then stayed. The effects of this event, for the region, cannot be overemphasized.

Agriculture and ranching expanded throughout the state to meet the needs of the settlers. San Francisco grew from a small settlement of about 200 residents in 1846 to a boomtown of about 36,000 by 1852. Roads, churches, schools and other towns were built throughout California. In 1849 a state constitution was written. The new constitution was adopted by referendum vote, and the future state’s interim first governor and legislature were chosen. In September, 1850, California became a state.

History of California in flags

What is sometimes forgotten is the near wiping out of the indigenous population during this period. The native population was decreasing since the arrival of the Spaniards. But, the Gold Rush settlers dealt the final blow.

The period immediately following the U.S. conquest of California has been characterized by numerous sources as a genocide. Under US sovereignty, after 1848, the Indian population plunged from perhaps 150,000 to 30,000 in 1870 and reached its nadir of 16,000 in 1900.

A timeline to recap

OK, enough history. Now some photos of the San Jose Mission (which is in current day Fremont)

The Mission building was reconstructed multiple times. The original ones probably looked more like the one shown in the drawing below.
The mission probably looked like this in 1797
Inside the church
You know — when you have an SLR — you do things :-P

Epilogue

Fast forward a little more than 150 years - it is twisted irony that the road right next to the San Jose mission is now apparently “adopted” by a different kind of “Indians” :-)

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