Traveling Armenia
Flags, Bags, and Armenia
Flag and History: “Armenia proclaimed its independence on May 28, 1918, following the Russian Revolution. On August 1 of that year the new constitution gave a red-blue-orange striped flag official sanction, and it continued to fly until April 2, 1921, when Russia’s Red Army conquered Armenia. One interpretation of its symbolism is that red stands for the blood shed by Armenians in the past, blue is for the unchanging Armenian land, and orange is for courage and work.” But Armenia’s history goes much further into the past than their flag. There is a Greco-Roman temple there, and it is said that Noah descended from Mt. Ararat and settled in Armenia. Armenia was also the first nation to accept Christianity in 301 AD — before Constantine in what is now modern day Istanbul. Armenia’s history is rich, its people warm, its food good, and its landscape beautiful. It is definitely worth a visit.
My experiences there
I spent almost two years in Armenia as a missionary. I learned the language, explored the country, and made a lot of friends. I lived without any heat in an apartment that was 35 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter, and I lived in an apartment without running water or a cooling system in 120 degree heat. I experienced the magic of New Year’s there, and also a fun holiday where people throw water on each other. I spent 9 months in a suburb of Yerevan, 4 months in the north in Gyumri, 3 months in Alaverdi, 4 months in Vanadzor, and 1 month in Artashat. I traveled all over the country and came to love many places. With that, here are some of my recommendations.
Explore the North
I think that Northern Armenia is some of the prettiest country in the entire world. It also offers some of the most “Armenian” things I can imagine. There are 3 major cities in the north, all of which are worth a visit — especially as a home base from which you can make day trips.
Alaverdi: This is like the garden of Armenia — with massive cliffs and really rugged terrain, this is a place of supreme beauty. There are also some amazing churches in Hagphpat and Sanahin nearby, as well as my favorite church in all of Armenia — Akhtala. This church is perched on a cliff, which makes it worth visiting in and of itself. But, what makes it unique is that is has some of the most exquisite, best preserved murals in all of Armenia, and arguably the world. They are from the 1200s and done in the Byzantine style. One of the craziest parts of this church is a canon ball hole that is blown through Mary’s head over where the altar sits. It is said that the Turks did this as they passed through — or at least that is what I was told. In addition to Akhtala, make sure to check out Odzun which is in the area — it is a beautiful monastery on another cliff.
Vanadzor and Dilijan: About an hour or so drive from Alaverdi lies one of the larger cities in Armenia: Vanadzor. Vanadzor is a good landing spot for a hotel and a larger city feel with some restaurants and connections to the rest of the north. From here you can make day trips, or just pass through. One of the best day trips is Dilijan — or you can do the reverse and stay in Dilijan and do a day trip to Vanadzor. No matter what you choose, Dilijan is a must see. It is a forested area with some really incredible churches and history. In the winter you can supposedly ski there — although I never did that.
Haghartsin Monastery is a must see in the area as it is about 15 minutes from Dilijan and is completely surrounded by beautiful mountains. Also in Dilijan there is Matosavank monastery — a ruined monastery from the 1200s.
Lake Sevan: I will include this in the north as I consider anything north of Yerevan “north”. Lake Sevan is about equidistance between Yerevan and Vanadzor. It is the largest lake in Armenia and it is a great place to spend a warm summer day. Plus, there is Sevanavank — another great monastery to check out with a stunning view over the lake. There are also hotels here where you can spend the night, even a Best Western for the American travelers (at least as of writing this).
Yerevan
Obviously any trip to Armenia must include a stop in Yerevan. While I think that a day or two is enough, you can decide on how long you want to spend in the capital. Here are some of my can’t miss items here.
The Mother of Armenia and Yerevan Cascade: If you get lucky and have a clear day, this view is unbeatable. The Mother of Armenia is a leftover Communist statue, built in 1967. It matches multiple other like statues scattered across the old Soviet Bloc. I really can’t stress just how incredible this spot is. Cross your fingers for good weather, because if you get it, the view will be one of the most amazing you’ll see.
Genocide Museum and Memorial: This is a can’t miss as so much of Armenia’s recent history has been defined by what happened between 1915–1917. The Ottomans, losing control over their empire, were worried about a revolt by the Christian Armenians. They feared this would bring Russia into a fight, and that they would lose large swathes of lands. For this reason they developed a systematic system for ridding their Eastern lands of the Armenians. Armenia still has a closed border with Turkey as a result of the genocide, as Turkey has never recognized the events as a genocide. It still pains Armenians to this day as nearly every person in Armenia lost a relative during that time, and Armenia itself shrunk to the small country it is today.
Erebuni: This old, historical fortress is in the boundary of Yerevan, but not exactly right in Yerevan. It is worth a visit if you have a second day in the city. It is one of the only places I have been where I have actually see Cuneiform writings where they were originally written — out in the open.
Edjmiadzin: This also has to be a go to while in Armenia. This is where the story of Christian Armenia really gets started. According to legend, Jesus came down and struck his hammer here, declaring Armenia a Christian nation, all the way back in 301 AD. Edjmiadzin actually means “The Descended One,” referring to that fateful day all those years ago. The church was then built there from 301–303 AD.
Explore the South
Well it makes sense that I would end with the south of Armenia. Again, I refer to everything south of Yerevan as “south.” The southern parts of Armenia are where the famous waters of Jermuk and all those beautiful apricot orchards are found. Here are some of my favorite places south of Yerevan.
Khor Virap: This monastery is said to be built on the hole where Grigor the Illuminator was thrown for 12 years, before he was pulled from the hole to work a miracle that would lead to Tridates III announcing that Armenia was to be a Christian nation. The best part of this monastery is the view of Ararat when the weather is clear. (Note: the first picture of this post)
Mt. Aratat: Some of the best views of Mt. Ararat come from the south. Just driving through Arashat and Ararat can lead to some truly impressive views of this beautiful mountain.
Garni and Geghard: These two are easily done together, and are pretty incredible. Garni is a rebuilt pagan temple from around 100 AD. It is best known as the standing monument of Armenia’s pre-Christian past. Geghard is a stunning monastery partially carved out of the side of a mountain. The actual church dates to the 1200s, but the site was founded in the 300s by Grigor the Illuminator.
Tatev: While I never made it this far south, I know a couple friends that did. It is apparently the prettiest place in all of Armenia. So it comes highly recommended!
Food
I haven’t added much about food in my posts because food doesn’t drive me when I travel. Armenia, however, is different. I truly miss the food there. Make sure to try Lamajo and Shawarma — you can get these almost anywhere. My personal favorite was Kebab with ketchup and mayo. Give the Dolma a whirl too! Also, try some Georgian food while you’re there — like Khachapuri with egg and Khinkanli. Finally, don’t miss out on the fresh fruits and vegetables, and grab yourself some fresh bread off the street. It is all to die for.
A Couple Notes
Armenia doesn’t have the best infrastructure. The best way to travel from city to city, and also in cities, is via Marshutni — basically a large passenger van where people will even stand. It is super cheap and can get you where you need to go. If you have a little more spare money, it helps to have a driver while you are there, or at least a taxi driver take you from city to city. Always make sure to clarify the price up front and don’t get in without having done so. Realize you will pay more as a visitor! Safety isn’t really a concern, although ask your hotel about places you may want to avoid after dark, which applies to pretty much any travel experience though. Lastly, and most importantly, have fun and enjoy this beautiful place!
