Joyful Clemantine Wamariya
5 min readJan 8, 2015
Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

10 Things I Learned in 10 Different Countries in 2014

After my final semester at Yale in December of 2013, I made a scary choice. Instead of looking for work — feeling over-read and underweight — that for a few months I would go wherever the wind carried me. I would become a student of the world, and I would eat.

With the support of family, friends, and sympathetic organizations, I ended up visiting 10 different countries in Africa, Europe, and the Middle East, plus 15 U.S. states.

1st stop: Israel

In The American Colony in Jerusalem, I had the best breakfast of my life: homemade hummus, which had olive oil, parsley and other herbs. I had conversation about local food, business, and politics. Visiting with the Carter Center, I discovered that if you want to really understand what is going on somewhere, watch the children play and find out what makes them happy or scared. Children tell the truth.

2nd stop: Palestine

In Bethlehem, a city that I had heard about my whole Catholic life, I was able to see all the holy places and, at the Aida Refugee Camp, was served the best kind of feast, including the most scrumptious cake I ever tasted, made by a women who cooks for the youth there. If you want to learn about the history of a people, eat their food and drink their beverages. In Palestine, I recommend consuming the tea and the music. No words needed.

3rd stop: Canada, Kamloops

I was invited to visit Thompson River University in Kamloops, British Columbia, to share my experiences of growing up in African refugee camps and, without formal schooling before age 13, going on to attend university. I was welcomed in true Canadian style. Straight off the plane, my host took me to the men’s curling championship game and handed me a cowbell inscribed with my name. It was freezing! I had no idea what was happening on the ice, but I smiled and counted the minutes until dinner. What left me wanting to go back, however, were the people — their warm embracing manner and the high goals they set for their scholars.

4th stop: Rwanda

In April, I flew to my homeland to attend the 20th commemoration of the genocide. For many of us who lived through it, it seems like yesterday. Losing our families, our friends, and even our faith in humanity are experiences that transcend time. I have not yet found the words to describe them. Someday I will.

5th stop: England

In the south central area of the country, the storybook-style architecture of the Cotswolds made me feel like a grown-up Alice in Wonderland. After several days of touring villages and learning the history of local kings and queens, I was ready to join the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party. (In fact, Lewis Carroll was born just two hours away.) Feasting on wine and cheese, I gained a pound of joy as well as an appreciation for the power of imagination.

6th stop: France

Next, Paris. For this leg of my journey, I was joined by my brother Steve, a veteran traveler. On the train from London, we admired the beautiful rolling hills of France and Belgium. In the city, we toured as many museums as we could, visited some old friends, and, of course, ate. Four days were not enough! Here I learned that life is a feast when you can enjoy it with people like Steve who know how to live well, eat well, and travel well. Meet as many Steves as you can.

7th stop: The Netherlands

In Amsterdam, I observed two things. First, all the Dutch ride bikes. (As a pedestrian, I felt downright conspicuous.) Second, most of the buildings are tilted. On a boat tour around this city by the sea, I told Steve that maybe this wasn’t so strange. Maybe it is we who live in the un-tilted houses who have it all wrong. Who is to say what is off kilter? As for the food, if you do not like fish, avoid the Hollandse Nieuwe, but I highly recommend Kinnaree restaurant. Note to self: learn to ride a bike, period.

8th stop: Zambia

This was more like a return home than a tourist visit. I lived in Zambia for two years when I was young, but had not been back in since. Thompson River University sponsored this trip and had named a master’s program for me and wanted me to spread the word and meet students eager to apply. While addressing them, I realized that my former refugee self would never have been invited to such a function. I would not even have been allowed in the hotel! This I have learned: when you have a chance to treat someone with respect or disrespect, choose wisely. You never know what that person will become. While in Lusaka, I ate most of my meals with Chef Pierre Mourez at the InterContinental Lusaka Rosso Trattoria Pizzeria. He cooked every dish that I wished for and I gained five more pounds of joy. All worth it.

9th stop: Zimbabwe

During three days here, I stayed at the beautiful Amanzi Lodge. Once again, I met great people — from all over Africa, Canada, England and France. At dinner, we joined our tables and conversed long past midnight. Even though we came from disparate places, we felt connected. And still do. I have learned to keep in touch.

10th stop: U.S.A.— San Francisco

View of San Francisco at Marin Headlands, Bay Area

After nine months on the road, I was deeply grateful to land permanently in San Francisco, California. I call this city my other home (even though I have gone broke living here). Two things I have learned: (1) DO NOT search for an apartment on Craigslist and, no matter how you search, allow at least three months to find a place, and (2) buy some walking shoes. The hills here are no joke.

I began this nine-month journey with an open mind and a grand hunger to learn. What I came to realize is that the world is a very small town. We are all neighbors. Be kind. Be gentle. And — always — eat. My new pounds of joy have gone straight to my cheeks and into certain, ahem, other areas. My dresses fit really well now.