21 for ‘21
Chicago Pizzas & Películas
With COVID cases climbing, temperatures dropping, and vaccines not yet distributed, Chicagoans will need ways to celebrate the arrival 2021 at home. When I need to celebrate at home, I immediately think of my two great loves: pizza and movies (don’t tell my wife and family I said that). So this list of hometown treats is my way of celebrating our city’s flavors, stories, and neighborhoods without leaving my couch: 21 Chicago pizza and movie pairings for 2021.* Feel free to find the perfect wine or beer pairing too, of course.
* No, there’s no particular order here. Just 21 great pizzas and películas.
Pizzeria Bebu: Pizzeria Bebu quickly became my favorite place in Chicago over the last couple years, and having the Off Color Taproom nearby did not hurt. The flavors Bebu packs into every single bite are unrivaled (as evidenced by my personal favorite, the Tarte Flambebu), and the crust truly stands out: a crunchy charred outer rim that somehow stays perfectly chewable. It is not open again yet, but here’s hoping it will be soon.
MOVIE PAIRING: Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, because Chez Quis sounds fancy and French…just like “Bebu.” You won’t have to be Abe Froman, the Sausage King of Chicago, to get a seat at Bebu, but there is not a ton of seating. So maybe plan ahead.
Spacca Napoli: Spacca Napoli is pure and simple pizza, authentic Neapolitan pies with great toppings and a friendly atmosphere. I love almost all pizza styles. (I’m looking at you Saint Louis. Provel? Why?) But Neapolitan has a special place in my heart. That perfect blend of crusty and soft is hard to top. When we stopped by Spacca Napoli for some Father’s Day patio pizza last June, they made us feel like we were at home, even without a dining room.
MOVIE PAIRING: Backdraft, because nothing is more important on a Neapolitan pizza than a super hot fire-powered oven. Also, the funeral scene takes place at Graceland Cemetery, just a few blocks from Spacca Napoli!
Paulie Gee’s: Yes, Paulie Gee’s is a New York chain. Yes, they are probably most known for their Neapolitan pizza (and the giant Italian ovens you can see from the front entrance). But it was actually the Detroit style US Pizza Cup Winner that kept me coming back — they consistently try new things and explore Midwestern flavors. When you are serving up multiple types of pizza perfectly, you have my respect and attention.
MOVIE PAIRING: North by Northwest, because Cary Grant winds up on a train to Chicago just like Paulie Gee’s found itself in the Midwest. I’m grateful they made the most of it. Also, you can never go wrong with Hitchcock.
Pizza, Fried Chicken, Ice Cream: The pandemic has absolutely wreaked havoc on local restaurants, in Chicago and beyond. However, necessity is also the mother of invention. Over the summer, Chicago had tons of walk-up windows opening up across the city. And what’s better to get from a walk-up window than a slice of pizza? Pizza, Fried Chicken, Ice Cream serves up slices of Sicilian pizza, and the crust is almost like a piece of golden focaccia. If you top it with their homemade sausage, you will have no complaints.
MOVIE PAIRING: The Blues Brothers, because Jake and Elwood would love any place that just calls it like it is. What do we serve? We serve pizza, fried chicken, and ice cream. Thank you. We will now return to our mission from God.
Lou Malnati’s (deep dish): We made it 4 pizzas into this list before addressing Deep Dish! Let’s dig in…with a fork. Chicagoans know two things about deep dish pizza. First, we typically only eat it when family and friends visit. (It is not sustainable to eat that much cheese every week, regardless of your weight class.) Second, if we’re ordering deep dish, we’re likely doing it from Lou Malnati’s. Tourists prioritize big downtown dining areas, and locals prioritize taste. The butter crust and ripe tomatoes are simply unmatched.
MOVIE PAIRING: Hoop Dreams, because the Malnati’s franchise is committed to making great pizza and stronger communities. Arthur Agee grew up in West Garfield Park in the 90s, not far from Malnati’s North Lawndale location. There were not many businesses setting up shop in Lawndale in the 90s, but Lou’s showed up for the community. Just another reason locals (and non-profit folks) especially love the place.
Lou Malnati’s (thin): Yes, I’m listing Lou Malnati’s twice. We can debate the best deep dish pizza in Chicago (and we do…all the time), but we cannot debate that Lou’s corn mealy crust is a beautiful thing. If you order their thin crust, you get that same buttery corn mealy goodness, but without the heaviness of deep dish. It’s a unique twist on tavern style pizza, which we’ll discuss shortly. Bonus: you can still get Lou’s homemade sausage and spinach mix on the thin crust, and they are outstanding.
MOVIE PAIRING: See above! And if you want another Steve James documentary, City So Real is pretty darn compelling and currently streaming on Hulu. I never expected a cinema verite film could explain our 2019 mayoral election (and Chicago politics in general), but that’s exactly what James accomplishes. At times it is maddening, and at times it is inspiring…but it is always brilliant (just like Malnati’s thin crust).
Piece: Not many people know that there’s such a thing as New Haven style pizza, but Chicagoans are very aware thanks to Piece, an award-winning brewery with award-winning pizza. There are many different ways to explore New Haven style pizza, and you could go for red, white, or traditional when you visit Piece. Personally, I encourage you to try the white pizza with mashed potatoes and bacon on top. Yes, really.
MOVIE PAIRING: High Fidelity, because Wicker Park was the real star of that movie, and Piece has been a huge part of the neighborhood ever since it opened in 2001. Afterwards, you can walk down Milwaukee Avenue spotting some of the record shops where John Cusack might have stopped in. I say *might have* because many of the best locations in that movie are gone now. Maybe pour one out for the Double Door when you walk under the Damen train stop.
Aurelio’s: This list could easily just be 21 different tavern style pizzas, honestly. Chicago may be famous for deep dish, but the invention of tavern style is pretty important too. We’re talking about a thin crunchy (almost crackery) crust loaded with toppings and cut into squares so a giant group can easily grab slices. They worked great in — wait for it — taverns! Anyway, I’m listing Aurelio’s here. What I love most about Aurelio’s is how generous they are with cheese. Tavern style pizza lets toppings be the star, and Aurelio’s makes sure you get plenty of them.
MOVIE PAIRING: Home Alone, because not only did that movie take place in the suburbs (where Aurelio’s was founded), but Kevin’s primary goal was to have cheese pizza. And cheese is what Aurelio’s is all about.
Dante’s: Chicago’s obviously more known for deep dish than New York style slices (and understandably so). But if someone asked me where to grab a slice of NYC style ‘za, the kind that typically comes on a paper plate and should be folded before eating, Dante’s would be high on my list.
MOVIE PAIRING: Planes, Tranes, and Automobiles, because it is entirely about trying to get from New York to Chicago for Thanksgiving. If Steve Martin and John Candy wanted a slice of classic NYC pizza as they reflected back on their trip, Dante’s would have been a good idea (Also, that trip was also kinda like one of the levels of Hell in Inferno.)
Boiler Room: Imagine a slice of New York style pizza with a bit more texture. The little salty and crunchy bits under the crust are what makes Boiler Room worth trying. Well, that and their willingness to try unconventional approaches like their Thai Serrano pie. Also, they have Jameson on tap and serve boozy softserve. So why stop after having the pizza?
MOVIE PAIRING: While You Were Sleeping, because Boiler Room’s CTA-themed men’s room comes complete with announcements about upcoming stops and metal walls. If you fall down for some reason, Sandra Bullock just might swoop in, save your life, and get to know your family while you are in a coma.
Stella Barra: I had low expectations for Stella Barra because it is part of the Lettuce Entertain You restaurant group. I figured they must serve mass-produced lowest common denominator pizza. I was so wrong. Stella Barra is a true pizzeria and bakery that just so happens to be part of a popular restaurant group. Also, the crust is perfectly fluffy and chewy, like biting into a pillow.
MOVIE PAIRING: The Fugitive, because Richard Kimble’s house on West Wisconsin was not far from here! Also, if you dismissed this movie as just another Hollywood blockbuster tv adaptation, you missed a truly great character-driven thriller, just like you could miss the great pizza at Stella Barra. Go back and re-watch. Trust me.
Coalfire: Coalfire’s crust is a little thinner and crunchier than the Neapolitan places on this list, but it is also not Chicago’s famous tavern style pizza. It is, well, coal fired. So you can expect a pizza that’s a little charred, a little bubbly, and a lot tasty.
MOVIE PAIRING: Widows, because it would have been easy to dismiss this recent film as just another heist movie. Boy, would you be missing out. McQueen uses lingering camera shots and an amazing ensemble to make a crime drama that digs into power, race, and class in Chicago. It’s visual storytelling at its finest and way too many people missed it. Don’t miss how Coalfire stands out, and don’t miss Widows either.
Roots: If you did not know there was such a thing as Quad Cities style pizza, nobody could blame you. However, if you ever visit Roots, they will make sure you know where they’re from and how their pizza came to be. Quad Cities pizza is all about the cheese (LOTS of it) and a malty crust. They cut the pizzas in thin strips, and you’ll be grateful for that because this pie is anything but light.
MOVIE PAIRING: Public Enemies, because they totally filmed in both Chicago AND the Quad Cities…I wonder if they had pizza while in the QC? I bet they did. Not sure if John Dillinger ever had this kind of pizza, though. Too bad. Then he could have died in peace. Public Enemies is nowhere near Michael Mann’s best movie, but it is still worth watching (especially if you watch while eating Roots).
Pequod’s: Now that we have addressed deep dish pizza, let’s talk about Pequod’s…which is kind of its own special genre. Pequod’s carmelized crust is a thing to behold — old, well seasoned pans and cheesy edges are just hard to top. Even our kids who often set aside pizza crust (sacrilege, I know) start with the edges first.
MOVIE PAIRING: The Dark Knight, because of that dark carmelized crust. Just as Christopher Nolan made the darkest Batman tale yet, Pequod’s made the darkest pizza crust yet. Others might try to match them, but this combo made dark cool.
Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder Company: Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder Company is probably most famous for two things. First, its basement location stands out, especially because Al Capone’s crew used to hang out there. Second, they serve “pizza in a bowl,” which is more calzone than pizza but is irresistible and unique nonetheless. Don’t skip the Mediterranean Bread…it is worth it.
MOVIE PAIRING: Untouchables, because of Al Capone! Bonus: Kevin Costner does not try to do an accent in this movie.
Bonci: Bonci serves Roman-style “Pizza al Taglio,” which is basically a fancy way of saying that they have a diverse array of big square pan pizzas that are loaded with toppings. You walk in, take a number, and point to the pizzas you want to try. They will cut off little rectangles of whatever you want (with scissors, no less) and then charge you by weight. It’s a novel idea, but more importantly it’s really good pizza with a crust that stands out.
MOVIE PAIRING: Risky Business because Bonci lets you be pretty promiscuous with your pizza…you can try every topping you see and you’ll feel way less morally conflicted than Tom Cruise (plus, you don’t have to worry about ruining your dad’s car).
Reno: Reno is probably as well known for their bagels and brunch as their pizza, but here’s the thing: solid wood-fired pizza is hard to resist. There are many different pizza styles available in Chicago, but we can never have enough wood-fired pies with plenty of beers on tap.
MOVIE PAIRING: Primal Fear, because Ed Norton’s performance as Aaron Stampler makes you think it is one kind of movie and one kind of story…before the bottom drops out. So feel free to stop by Reno for a bagel or some brunch fare, but order a pizza too. I bet the whole experience will change.
Medici: Medici on 57th is a Hyde Park legend, and they are probably most known for their “garbage pizza.” I’m personally a fan of their thin crust tavern-y pie topped with spinach and goat cheese, but regardless of which crust or toppings you choose you will get something that feels home baked.
MOVIE PAIRING: When Harry Met Sally, because Sally picks up Harry in Hyde Park…even if they ended up north of the Loop on Lake Shore Drive somehow? Listen, it’s a New York movie, so we should probably forgive them for screwing up the geography a bit.
Art of Pizza: Walk-up windows may be a new trend here in Chicago, but pizza by the slice has obviously been around forever. And Art of Pizza took it to another level: deep dish by the slice. As we discussed earlier, you cannot eat deep dish all the time. It’s bad for your life expectancy. But what if you could walk into someplace and just get a single slice of truly good deep dish pizza? Well, that changes the game. No long waits. No pressure to eat more than you should. Just one great slice, and Art of Pizza delivers just that.
MOVIE PAIRING: Thief, because we need another Michael Mann movie on this list, and this was his directorial debut. It is a great Chicago flick and a great heist movie. So if you want to steal some actual art, call James Caan to crack the safe. If you want pizza Art, you now know where to go, as well.
Knead: As discussed previously, I’m a sucker for a well-executed Neapolitan pizza. When Knead opened a couple years ago, they quickly established themselves as being able to excel at the pure and simple (see: Margherita) or give things a twist (see: Wingin’ It). Either way, the crust is sacred and the vibe is pure trattoria. Much like with tavern style or deep dish, I could probably fill this whole list with Neapolitan places, but Knead gives a great mix of traditional and innovative.
MOVIE PAIRING: I Am Trying To Break Your Heart, because Wilco was striving to both be themselves and reinvent themselves all at once. The end result was a transcendent album and a pretty great rock doc.
Bungalow: Some would say that I’m saving the best for last here (“some” being Chicago magazine), but Bungalow did something pretty breathtaking when you think about it: Jess Galli did not just elevate Neapolitan pizza or give it a twist…she reinvented it from the ground up. I bit into this crust and thought, “Huh…it’s like a wheat-y sourdough and a Neapolitan pizza had a lovechild.” It is not easy to create something this pure and this unique. Whether you are into their quirky farm fresh toppings or you think they are trying a bit too hard, you cannot deny that Bungalow made a whole new kind of pizza. Here’s hoping 2021 is a whole new kind of year too.
MOVIE PAIRING: Barbershop, because Calvin totally lives in a classic Chicago bungalow! Plus, stories like Barbershop matter. When you look back on the list above, there are an awful lot of white protagonists…and Chicago is way too diverse for that. The lack of diversity in these movies says a lot about the stories Hollywood tells and how those stories get told. Movies with three dimensional black characters building community on the South Side should happen way more often. Here’s hoping more artists create original películas, and here’s hoping more bakers create original pizzas.
