San Marino: A micro-state worth more than just a few hours
The tiny (and at only 24 square miles it is tiny) Most Serene Republic of San Marino describes itself as the world’s oldest independent republic and a lot is packed into this micro nation. Most people travel from Rimini in Italy for just a few hours and leave — after 5pm the narrow streets are practically deserted in the winter months — but there are more than enough sights to see to justify spending a few nights in San Marino.
The republic has a long and complicated history that would take a thesis to explain, but in short, the state was founded by a Croatian stonemason drafted by Roman Emperor Diocletian to re-build the harbour in nearby Rimini. After 10 years, Saint Marinus (Translation: man of the sea) left Rimini and lived as a hermit in the forests on top of Mount Titano. Eventually, he established a small monastery dedicated to St. Peter and the state that took his name developed around that.
The Three Towers
On every public building in the Medieval citta on top of Mount Titano there flies a white and blue flag with an emblem of three towers. The three towers are the symbol of San Marino, and when you look up from any of the streets in the old city, it quickly becomes clear why.
Guaita (Tower 1) — One of the three symbolic towers of San Marino, the Guaita tower is the most visited by tourists and offers uninterrupted views over San Marino and the surrounding Italian countryside and two other fortresses. The fortress was built in the 11th century on top of Mount Titano and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008. Inside, visitors will find the old prison cells with carvings and paintings on the walls produced by prisoners held in Guaita awaiting their fate. The walk up the steep steps to the tower is not for the faint-hearted, but when you get there, it is worth it.
Castello Cesta (Tower 2) — Cesta, also known as De La Fratta, is the second tower on Mount Titano and receives fewer visitors than Guaita. Cesta is located at the highest point on the mountain and is depicted on the San Marino flag alongside the other two. Inside there is a weapons museum dedicated to Saint Marinus, established in 1956, and housing more than 1,500 weapons of all kinds from across Europe. Hundreds of guns and swords are on display with Medieval armour and canons. On a calm day you can climb the tower and look back at Guaita tower and the winding streets of San Marino old town.
Montale (Tower 3) — The third tower along the Mount Titano defensive trail, Montale is the smallest and least visited, hidden away along a trail in the forest of San Marino. The tower was built in the 14th century, and although not open to the public, the sweeping views over the Italian countryside from its base are nonetheless spectacular. Montale was also used as a prison and it is thought that it was built to help the Malatesta family in Romagna Province with their defence, symbolising the strategic importance of San Marino.
Basilica di San Marino
Although one of the newer buildings in the old city of San Marino (built in 1836), the Co-Cathedral of San Marino is the location of many of the most important religious and secular events in the state. On the outside, the Basilica appears Roman in design, with 8 carved Corinthian columns on the porch, but inside it is impressively grand, with an almost modern feel. More columns inside, representing the 12 disciples, the four signs of the cross line the 3 naves, and the relics of Saint Marino are held under the altar.
A simple oak throne lies to the left of the main altar where the two Captain-Regents (co-Presidents) sit, and the building is where their 6-monthly term in office starts and ends. This represents the civic element of the church, putting the heads of the Republic at the heart of the main church in the state, but like much of San Marinus, there is one point of interest that surprises visitors.
The tallest statue in the church, located overlooking the altar, is of Saint Marinus, with Jesus and other disciples in a lower position carved into the wall behind him. San Marino is a Catholic country, but the founder of the state — not officially recognised as a Saint by the Vatican — is given a privileged position within the church rather than Jesus. This is one of the peculiarities of San Marinese culture; Marinus is everywhere, even at the heart of religious life, which demonstrates the respect that the population has for a poor hermit who was able to successfully establish a state, prevent invasions from surrounding Italian republics, and lay the foundations for the world’s oldest Republic.
Palazzo Pubblico
San Marino is proud of its status as the oldest Republic in the world, and the centre of the state is the Palazzo Pubblico (Public Palace). Located on Piazza della Libertà — the only piazza in San Marino on account of the rest of the state being hilly — the building acts as the town hall, government building, seat of the two Captains Regent (dual Presidents), the Congress of State, seat of the Council of XII, and the base of the Grand and General Council.
The Medieval-style corbel styled facade topped with battlements was designed to replicate the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, although on a much smaller scale, representing the influence that Italian architects have had on San Marino’s architectural style. The current building has been built on the site of the Ancient Domus Magna Comunis, the early government building where the ruling families held court, and although the foundations were built between 1884 and 1894 by Italian architect Francesco Azzurri, using stone cut from local caves, the current building was heavily restored by Italian architect Gae Aulenti in 1996.
In gold over the clock on the top turret are painted images of Saint Marinus, Saint Agata and Saint Leo, the 3 patron saints of San Marino, overlooking the old town of the Republic and the central government building in the Most Serene Republic.
There are few, if any, other government buildings in the world where visitors are able to walk around without supervision or a security check upon entry. Inside the building, the grand stone and marble staircase and walls covered in priceless paintings and statues are unlike anywhere else in San Marino. Outside of the room where the Council of the XII meet, a bust of President Abraham Lincoln hangs from the wall, with the words “Although your dominion is small, your state is nevertheless one of the most honored in all history”.
The chamber of the Grand and Central Council is the most impressive room in the Palazzo Pubblico. One back wall where the 60 elected councillors have met since 1848 is a large colourful painting of Saint Marinus floating on a cloud, surrounded by his followers, peasant farmers, scholars, soldiers, women and children, as he tells them that they are all free. On the other walls hang crests of the founding families of the modern Republic and other priceless paintings.
It costs just €3 for a ticket to visit the Palazzo Pubblico.
San Marino — Borgo Maggiore Funicular
The Funivia di San Marino is the main connection between San Marino old town and the settlement of Borgo Maggiore. It takes just over 1 minute to travel from the lower terminus to the top terminus, with sweeping views over the typical Italian-style houses from the floor-to-ceiling windows of the carriage.
Tourists and locals alike use the funicular to travel on the 338 metre track between the residential area of Borgo Maggiore and the historic centre of San Marino. There are other ways to travel between the two, but it takes significantly longer to walk or drive along the winding roads that connects San Marino to Borgo. And it is more fun to travel up and down a mountain on a funicular than by car.
It costs just € 3,50 (with a Tutto San Marino Card) for a return trip on the Funivia di San Marino, and as the Repubblica di San Marino is easy to walk around, this is a small cost to pay to visit a less touristy part of the state.
Find out more about visiting San Marino
San Marino is worth visiting for more than just a few hours, you should stay overnight in one of the growing number of hotels in the state. For more information about how to #visitSanMarino, to get your souvenir passport stamp, or to book tours or accommodation, visit the official Visit San Marino website.
