The Irish “Gin-naissance”
From 18th century outlaw to top shelf tipple - gin is a drink with more spirit than most writes David McManus as part of the O’Brien’s Gin Lovers Series.
A 14th century cultural art movement it is not, but the “gin-naissance” sweeping the nation has meant that the once frowned upon spirit is back in the spotlight. Gin has re-positioned itself as the go-to spirit for a new generation of Irish drinkers. Booming sales of Irish gin labels at home and abroad has the industry talking about an “Irish Gin Craze”.
A Splash Of Orange
Gin’s story starts in London (circa. 1869), where a rudimentary version of the spirit known as jenever was introduced by the most unlikely of characters — William of Orange. The original Gin Craze infamously gripped the city, sparking moral outrage on the cobbled Cockney streets. One instance tells of a coachman pawning his own wife for a quarter bottle!
The spirit’s popularity soon spread to Irish shores, where it was widely consumed in the latter part of 17th century (due to its low price and quick distilling process). It was the spirit’s ubiquitous nature that led to similar problems this side of the Irish Sea. Overzealous consumption led to an outbreak of domestic abuse and anti-social behaviour (the original ASBO!).
The government was forced to step in with a tax and legislation aimed to regulate gin’s availability. Overnight gin sales went underground - bootleggers now pushed “hooch” on The Black Market.
The ‘Gin Act’ worked in curtailing consumption and sales fell dramatically through the rest of the eighteenth century.
Fishbowl Generation
Two centuries later, and gin is back in vogue. Once regarded as the poor relation to vodka and whiskey, it has reclaimed the mantle as Ireland’s top spirit.
From Downton Abbey to The Great Gatsby, and James Bond to Mad Men — gin has played its way back into the consumer consciousness. It has found a new audience. Today, gin is more likely to be consumed by younger consumers, with the 45 plus demographic is still resistant to gin’s renaissance.
“Classic gin cocktails, like negroni, martini or simply the gin and tonic are in vogue, the nation’s mixologists have plenty of modern options to offer.”
The spirit is on trend, and being ordered in more and more innovative ways. The manner in which gin is now served adds to its appeal — from fishbowl glasses to fancy garnishes. Sage, juniper berries, black pepper and pink grapefruit accompany the orders of this new gin quaffing cohort.
Gin is now the single biggest growth sector in Irish drink sales. Primarily due to this audience’s willingness to pay more for a premium product in line with contemporary tastes. The modern consumer group is more discerning in their quest for spirit satisfaction. Classic gin cocktails, like negroni, martini or simply the gin and tonic are in vogue, the nation’s mixologists have plenty of modern options to offer.
Gin has stepped out of the shadows of vodka and whiskey, taking on a craft beer-style approach to dominate the youth market.
Light, refreshing and versatile — gin has a chameleon like nature. There is now a gin for all tastes and occasions. Gin can be enjoyed after a tough day at the office or on a night on the tiles. Figures prove the new wave of gin labels have relegated the humble bottle of vino to the back of the drinks cabinet.
Country Revival
A raft of new distilleries has popped up around Ireland. While whiskey remains the mainstay of Irish distilleries, it still takes years before it can be brought to market. Many of these new distilleries are putting time and effort into producing craft gins. Some distilleries are fully dedicated to creating unique, artisan gins using the very best local ingredients and botanicals.
There are dozens of new gin labels vying for your attention. From the depths of rural Kerry (Dingle Gin) to the cosmopolitan streets of Dublin (Dublin City Gin). Others such as Gunpowder (Leitrim), and Glendalough (Wicklow) are all popular among millennial drinkers. The modern consumer now wants to taste the products and familiarise themselves with the stories behind them.
The challenge for traditional producers is how to compete in the fashion stakes. It is now up to the older-style gin labels to realise the latest trends or face being left on the shelf.
Soaring Sales
Ireland has followed in the footsteps of other Europeans nations in rediscovering it’s love of gin (the revival originated in Spain). 2017 was a breakthrough year for Irish gin, the rate of exports trebled. Upwards of 130,000 cases of Irish gin were sold internationally.
“Irish gin is already regarded as a world leader in terms of quality and authenticity.”
It was the fastest-growing spirit nationally last year, growing 31.6 per cent in Ireland. The gin market in Ireland is now worth a record €74 million!
Reasons behind this dramatic increase are a previously low base for gin sales, coupled with a strong craft gin sector. Many distilleries are now producing their own premium gin — using different blends of herbs, spices and fruits.
The number of licensed gin producers in Ireland doubled since 2014. Sales forecasts are based on Irish-produced gins making a breakthrough in other markets in 2018.
Just The Tonic
Tonic water has also been given a makeover, with many premium brands coming onto the market in recent years. These new tonics are typically created with the same craft and attention the premium spirit they accompany.
In this modern era of influence, connected millennial's crave craft tonic waters such as Poachers, Fentimans and Fever-Tree to titillate their tastebuds and populate their Instagram feed!
Gin has never been so popular. Irish labels are already regarded as world leader in terms of quality and authenticity. The Irish craft movement is now centre stage.
For many this is it just another hipster movement, but could this be something more substantial? Only time will tell.
For now the proof is in the drinking.
Chin-chin!
Like what you read? Here’s some more — A Gin Lovers Guide to Ireland