Restaurant Review: La Folie, “Una cosa de locos”

As far back as October 17, 2012 when they opened their second local, La Folie, on one of the busiest corridors of the Jockey Plaza, sisters Pilar (31) and Andrea Balta (29), have wanted all your senses to be awakened the minute you walk in.

It’s actually their folieosofy: La Folie Cafe, which means madness in French, is a place of inspiration, where all senses are put to work with its eclectic style, where antique furniture and modern materials achieve awakening madness to enjoy the simple things in life: childhood memories, fantasy, dreams, and love.

The Baltas have managed to fill that void in lima. A modern cafe with a vintage touch and a brushstroke of art, where you can go chatter or read the newspaper while sipping coffee or enjoying healthy and delicious organic food. Not suitable for minimalists.

Imagine dropping into a rabbit hole and infiltrating an upgraded Starbucks…in Wonderland. That’s how you’ll feel. As you ogle the sides of the walls, you’ll notice they’re filled with three-legged tables, antique night stands and domed lid trunks with swiveling hinges, painted or upholstered with such rare and atypical colors for a restaurant, wondering between the old Europe and modern: electric purple, tiffany blue and French fuchsia.

Here and there you’ll spot paintings and pictures hung upon pegs; and mirrors and plants in yellowish vases and chairs; and old tiles with a traditional barranquino style. All appearing absurdly out of place or in an unlikely position. Most objects recycled, renewed, stale and outdated, seeming to have a story behind waiting to be told.

Newly emerged young artists full of potential are given this space to expose their art, as well as eminent ones. Pepe Urtegea, who works with recycling, made the screen door; Fito Espinoza, Kerman and photographer Kaoru Kuskawa contributed with some of the wall pieces. Elder customers have donated old-fashioned chairs and couches, which have been restored.

The menu is well designed and portions are generous. Not only does it offer organic and healthy dishes, but with that taste you won’t want to go back to those carb filled meals. You’ll take a leafy salad any day. The “Jardinera salad” puts to shame the Caesar salad of so many other restaurants. It’s a testament to the simple formula of fine ingredients speaking for themselves: shredded chicken, corn, avocado, carrot, finely chopped artichoke, queso fresco, baby tomatoes, onion rings and boiled egg served on a bed of spinach and mix of organic greens, all dressed by an assertive vinaigrette. It’s not only delicious, but it fits the overall theme of abundance.

To all this, add an excellent service. The waiters are polite, know the meaning of forgotten expressions like “please” and “thank you” and are prepared to describe the ingredients of each dish.

In Lima there was no intermediate between a restaurant, a cafeteria and a bar; now there is. La Folie.

* Jockey Plaza Shopping Center (New Boulevard)

Reservations: 355–2653